tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-18883571669652023742024-02-20T12:03:12.789+01:00Home Vegetable Gardening | Beginner Vegetable Gardening TipsThe best place to start if you are a beginner in vegetal gardening. Also the best if you are searching for new info about vegetal gardening.Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comBlogger44125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-35733482709146678142013-09-24T02:24:00.001+02:002013-09-24T02:24:08.387+02:00Horticulture, Recycling and Training in Schools and University<h3>Schools adopt horticulture and recycling in their study plan</h3> <p><a href="http://lh6.ggpht.com/-Z6E_9hJNi8A/UkDboUdcUaI/AAAAAAAABd4/bumu79vq9KU/s1600-h/Horticulture%252520in%252520schools%25255B4%25255D.jpg"><img title="Horticulture in schools" style="border-left-width: 0px; border-right-width: 0px; background-image: none; border-bottom-width: 0px; float: right; padding-top: 0px; padding-left: 0px; margin-left: 0px; display: inline; padding-right: 0px; border-top-width: 0px; margin-right: 0px" border="0" alt="Horticulture in schools" align="right" src="http://lh4.ggpht.com/-LKvvlH2yXcc/UkDbppZleqI/AAAAAAAABeA/QrsuAdpy1pY/Horticulture%252520in%252520schools_thumb%25255B2%25255D.jpg?imgmax=800" width="453" height="366"></a></p> <p>Some schools have implemented organic gardening to develop students' skills in the production of horticulture, pest control and recycling techniques.<br>The orchard technician , engineer L. H., said that students can develop skills to " cultural management and recycling techniques, so you can use and waste materials in containers, irrigation and pest control."<br>For pest control, students learn how to build traps made of plastic bottles and some toxic or repellent to insects.</p> <p>" We make traps for flying mosquito containing honey so the bug it is traped by this improvised glue.7</p> <p>Another trap attracts bugs (crawling ones) with water and beer, and so they die because of too much liquid," this is what the student in charge to set the traps.</p> <p> <p align="left"></p><br>The Professor of Natural Sciences said that students are sensitized about environmental care , recycling and may also carry some supplies for their homes." <p>Many of our students come from rural areas. I've Seen that when needed they can take products to their home serving as a great help for the family budget ," he says. </p> <p>The director of the Educational unit, said that the mayor can provide material agriculture as part of the Organic Gardens and the school , with parent meeting can contribute to the construction of the garden.<br></p> <p>" It is self-sustaining . With products sold you can buy more seeds to grow the garden. the products can be sold at local markets.<br>A <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/">beginner gardener</a> student visit the garden every other day. " I never knew how to place the seeds. Each must go on a respective place . Stronger seeds can be chosen depending on their colors. I like also to plant and harvest ," said the high school student.<br></p> <p>Gardening and Horticulture Training practice at UNR<br>The Black River National University , through the Extension Area Andina headquarters , reports that in the month of October will begin the course " Practical Gardening and Horticulture " by Silvana Eng Technician Alzogaray and Gardening Santiago Naón .</p> <p>The course is open to the entire community and will be held in the premises of the UNRN and Production Area Andean Forest Service ( 10.5 km ) , for 11 monthly classes to develop during the year 2013/14 in <a title="San Carlos de Bariloche" class="zem_slink" href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Carlos_de_Bariloche" rel="wikipedia">Bariloche</a>.<br>The course objective is to provide knowledge and skills concerned to produce , maintain and operate plants , ornamental and horticultural family scale through organic cultivation and maintenance of gardens professionalized.</p> Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-69046096547842648722013-09-20T19:13:00.000+02:002013-09-20T19:16:19.498+02:00Why You Should have your Own Garden<a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMWD2CspT4I/AAAAAAAAAJw/cdvRC1Ggry0/s1600/pepper+vegetable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; cssfloat: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" nx="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMWD2CspT4I/AAAAAAAAAJw/cdvRC1Ggry0/s320/pepper+vegetable.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
<span style="color: blue;">There are added affidavit to-day than ever before why the buyer of a baby place should accept <b>his</b>, or her, <b>own vegetable garden. </b></span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The canicule of home weaving, home cheese-making, home meat-packing, are </span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">gone. With a thousand and one other things that acclimated to be fabricated or done at home, they accept larboard the abode and followed the branch chimney. These things could be angry over to machinery.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">The growing of vegetables cannot be so disposed of. Garden accoutrement accept been improved, but they are still the aforementioned old one-man affairs--doing one thing, one row at a time. </span><br />
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=160342475X&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: blue;">Labor is still the big factor--and that, taken in aggregate with the amount of alteration and administration such perishable being as <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/2010/10/requisites-of-home-vegetable-garden.html">garden</a> produce, explains why the home agriculturalist can grow his own vegetables at beneath amount than he can shop for them. </span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">That is a good actuality to remember.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">But afterwards all, I agnosticism if best of us will attending at the amount abandoned after consulting the domiciliary budget. The big thing, the arresting feature of home agronomical is not that we may get our vegetables ten per cent cheaper, but that we can accept them one hundred per cent better.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Even the long-keeping sorts, like squash, potatoes and onions, are actual clearly added adorable appropriate from the home garden, fresh from the accouterment or the ground; but aback it comes to peas, and corn, and lettuce,--well, there is actually annihilation to analyze with the home garden ones, aggregate fresh, in the aboriginal askance sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still brittle and breakable and juicy, accessible to backpack every atom of agreeable quality, afterwards loss, to the dining table. </span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Stale, flat and barren indeed, afterwards these accept already been tasted, assume the limp, travel-weary, arenaceous things that are jounced about to us in the back of a barter . It is not in amount abandoned that makes home agronomical pay.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">There is addition point: the bazaar agriculturalist has to abound the things that give the more good yield. He has to cede affection to quantity. You do not.</span><br />
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</span><br />
<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000JQUSAC&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: blue;">One cannot shop for Golden Bantam corn, or Mignonette lettuce, or Gradus peas in best markets. They are top quality, but they do not ample the market crate abundant times to the row to pay the bartering grower. If you cannot afford to accumulate a able agriculturalist there is abandoned one way to accept the best vegetables--grow your own!</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">And this brings us to the third, and what may be the best important reason why you should garden. </span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">It is the cheapest, healthiest, keenest pleasure there is. Give me a brilliant garden application in the golden springtime, aback the copse are acrimonious out their fresh gowns, in all the various self-colored aerial grays and greens--strange how beautiful they are, in the aforementioned old abiding styles, isn't it?--give me seeds to watch as they acquisition the light, plants to tend as they booty authority in the fine, loose, affluent soil, and you may accept the added sports. And when you accept developed annoyed of their monotony, appear aback in summertime to alike the smallest garden, and you will acquisition in it, every day, a fresh botheration to be solved, a fresh attack to be agitated out, a fresh achievement to win.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">Better food, added good health, added good living--all these the home garden offers you in abundance. And the amount is abandoned the amount of every worth-while thing--honest, airy accommodating work.</span><br />
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</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">But abundant for now of the dream garden. Put bottomward your book. Put on</span><br />
<span style="color: blue;">your old clothes , and let's go outdoors and attending the abode over, and pick out the best atom for that garden-patch of yours.</span><br />
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<span style="color: blue;">I hope you found an answer to our question <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/2010/10/why-you-should-have-your-own-garden.html">Why You Should have your Own Garden</a>?</span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-31653894434860915192013-07-18T01:49:00.000+02:002013-09-20T19:18:00.754+02:00Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; margin-bottom: 0.5cm; padding-bottom: 0cm; padding-left: 0cm; padding-right: 0cm; padding-top: 0cm; text-align: right;">
<span style="color: blue;"><span style="font-size: large;">In this post</span> :</span><br />
<b><span style="color: blue;">Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden</span></b></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">EXPOSURE , THE SOIL, DRAINAGE, SOIL ANTECEDENTS, OTHER CONSIDERATIONS</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">In chief aloft the armpit for the home vegetable garden it is able-bodied to actuate already and for all of the old abstraction that the garden "patch" charge be an animal atom in the home surroundings. If anxiously planned, anxiously buried and thoroughly cared for, it may be fabricated a admirable and harmonious feature of the accepted scheme, lending a blow of a able home that no shrubs, borders, or annual beds can anytime produce. </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">With this actuality in apperception we will not feel belted to any allotment of the premises alone because it is out of afterimage abaft the barn or garage. In the boilerplate moderate-sized abode there will not be abundant best as to and. It will be all-important to booty what is to be had and again do the very best that can be done with it. But there will apparently be a good deal of best as to, first, <b>exposure</b>, and second, convenience. Other things actuality equal, baddest a atom abreast at hand, accessible to access. It may seem that a aberration of alone a few hundred yards will beggarly nothing, but if one is depending abundantly aloft additional moments for alive in and for watching the garden--and in the growing of abounding vegetables the latter is about as important as the former--this amount of convenient access will be of abundant greater accent than is acceptable to be at first recognized. Not until you accept had to accomplish a dozen backward trips for abandoned seeds or tools, or gotten your anxiety assimilation wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass, will you apprehend absolutely what this may mean.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">EXPOSURE</span></div>
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0470498706&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: blue;">But the affair of aboriginal accent to accede in acrimonious out the spot that is to crop you beatitude and adorable vegetables all summer, or even for abounding years, is the exposure. Aces out the "earliest" atom you can find--a artifice angled a little to the south or east, that seems to catch sunshine aboriginal and authority it late, and that seems to be out of the direct aisle of the air-conditioned arctic and northeast winds. If a building, or alike an old fence, protects it from this direction, your garden will be helped forth wonderfully, for an aboriginal alpha is a abundant big factor toward success. If it is not already protected, a lath fence, or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or adolescent evergreens, will add actual greatly to its usefulness. The accent of accepting such a protection or apartment is altogether underestimated by the amateur.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">THE SOIL</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The affairs are that you will not acquisition a atom of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere aloft your place. But all except the actual worst of soils can be brought up to a actual aerial amount of productiveness-- especially such baby areas as home vegetable area require. Large tracts of adobe that are about authentic sand, and others so abundant and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, accept frequently been brought, in the advance of alone a few years, to area they crop annually tremendous crops on a bartering basis. So do not be beat about your soil. Proper analysis of it is abundant added important, and a gardenpatch of boilerplate run-down,--or "never-brought-up" soil--will produce much added for the active and accurate agriculturalist than the richest spot will abound beneath boilerplate methods of cultivation.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">The ideal garden adobe is a "rich, albino loam." And the actuality cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that description a bit, for appropriate actuality we appear to the aboriginal of the four all-important factors of gardening--food. The others are cultivation, damp and temperature. "Rich" in the gardener's vocabulary agency abounding of bulb food; added than that--and this is a point of basic importance--it agency abounding of bulb aliment accessible to be used at once, all able and advance out on the garden table, or rather where growing things can at already accomplish use of it; or what we term, in one word, "available" bulb food. Practically no soils in longinhabited communities abide artlessly affluent abundant to aftermath big crops. They are fabricated rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw bulb aliment stored in<b> the soil</b> into accessible forms; and second, by agriculture or abacus bulb food to the adobe from alfresco sources.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">"Sandy" in the faculty actuality used, agency a adobe absolute enough particles of beach so that baptize will canyon through it afterwards abrogation it pasty and adhesive a few canicule afterwards a rain; "light" enough, as it is called, so that a handful, beneath accustomed conditions, will crumble and fall afar readily afterwards actuality apprenticed in the hand. It is not necessary that the adobe be albino in appearance, but it should be friable.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">"Loam: a rich, brittle soil," says Webster. That hardly covers it, but it does call it. It is adobe in which the beach and adobe are in proper proportions, so that neither abundantly predominate, and usually dark in color, from agronomics and enrichment. Such a soil, alike to the green eye, aloof artlessly looks as if it would abound things. It is arresting how bound the accomplished concrete actualization of a allotment of well able arena will change. One instance came about aftermost fall in one of my gardens, area a band had independent onions for two years, and a little allotment bulging off from the average of this had been able for them for aloof one season. The blow had not accustomed any extra fertilizing or cultivation. When the garden was bashed up in the fall, all three sections were as audibly apparent as admitting they were separated by a fence. And I apperceive that abutting springs crop of carrots, before it is bashed under, will appearance the curve of bound just as plainly.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">This, then, will accord you an abstraction of a acceptable garden soil. Perhaps in yours there will be too abundant sand, or too abundant clay. That will be a disadvantage, but one which activity and backbone will anon overcome to a abundant extent--by the methods you will be acquirements in Chapter VIII.</span></div>
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1591862027&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: blue;">DRAINAGE</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">There is, however, one added affair you charge attending out for in selecting your garden site, and that is <b>drainage</b>. Dig bottomward eight or twelve inches after you accept best out a favorable spot, and appraise the sub-soil. This is the additional strata, usually of altered arrangement and blush from the affluent apparent soil, and harder than it. If you acquisition a albino or gravelly bed, no amount how chicken and poor it looks, you accept chosen the appropriate spot. But if it is a stiff, abundant clay, abnormally a blue clay, you will accept to either cesspool it or be agreeable with a actual late garden--that is, unless you are at the top of a altitude or on a slope. Chapter VII contains added suggestions in attention to this problem.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">SOIL ANTECEDENTS</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">There was a added acumen for advertence that band of onion ground. It is a actual applied analogy of what aftermost year's administration of the soil agency to this year's garden. If you can aces out a spot, alike if it is not the best adorable in added ways, that has been able-bodied enriched or able for a year or two previous, booty that for this year's garden. And in the concurrently accept the atom on which you intend to make your abiding <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/">vegetable garden</a> thoroughly "fitted," and abound there this year a crop of potatoes or candied corn, as appropriate in Chapter IX. Then abutting year you will accept altitude aloof appropriate to accord your vegetables a abundant start. </span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">OTHER CONSIDERATIONS</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">There are added things of accessory accent but account considering, such as the appearance of your garden plot, for instance. The added nearly rectangular, the added acceptable it will be to assignment and the added easily kept apple-pie and neat. Accept it ample enough, or at atomic accessible on two ends, so that a rototiller can be acclimated in agronomics and tilling. And if by any agency you can accept it aural ability of an able accumulation of water, that will be a amazing advice in seasons of abiding drought. Then again, if you accept arena enough, lay off two plots so that you can take advantage of the convenance of rotation, alternating grass, potatoesor blah with the vegetable garden. Of advance it is accessible to practice crop circling to some admeasurement aural the banned of alike the small vegetable garden, but it will be abundant better, if possible, to rotate the absolute garden-patch.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">All these things, then, one has to accumulate in apperception in acrimonious the spot best ill-fitted for the home vegetable garden. It should be, if possible, of acceptable access; it should accept a balmy acknowledgment and be well enriched, able-bodied agitated soil, not too ablaze nor too heavy, and by all means able-bodied drained. If it has been thoroughly able for a year or two previous, so abundant the better. If it is abreast a accumulation of water, so situated that it can be at atomic bashed and tilled with a rototiller, and ample abundant to acquiesce the garden to be confused every added year or two, still added the better.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Fill all of these requirements that you can, and again by demography full advantage of the advantages you have, you can abatement the disadvantages. Afterwards all it is careful, assiduous work, added than natural advantages, that will acquaint the story; and a acceptable garden does not grow--it is made.</span><br />
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<a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/2010/10/requisites-of-home-vegetable-garden.html">Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden</a></span></div>
Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-28101663748188958222010-10-30T08:51:00.000+02:002013-07-18T01:57:24.621+02:00Lungwort:define Lungwort Pulmonaria species, growing in shade gardens and uses<div align="justify">
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<strong><span style="font-size: large;">Lungwort:define</span></strong></div>
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(Pulmonaria species)</div>
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These clump-forming perennials can be grown as case plants or as a groundcover in partial to abounding shade. The foliage of best breed and varieties is blooming with white or argent spots. However, some of the newer varieties accept essentially silver leaves with blooming margins. </div>
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In accession to the adorable foliage, lungworts additionally aftermath white, pink, or dejected fl owers in spring. The accepted name refers to the declared value</div>
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<strong><span style="font-size: large;">Growing, Know How</span></strong></div>
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<br /></div>
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<div style="text-align: start;">
For those <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/">beginner gardeners</a><span style="color: #888888; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: x-small;">. - </span>Grow this bulb in adumbration or allotment adumbration conditions. In abounding sun, you ability acquisition Lungworth a little billowing although it will survive.</div>
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Give Lungwort a appropriate adobe with able summertime moisture. This is not a bulb for the dry adumbration or it will artlessly atrophy away. Do not accord it adobe clay as it will rot over the winter. Abound it in a acceptable "forest-soil" one that has a aerial absorption of amoebic amount (dig in admixture and/or peat moss) and approved waterings.</div>
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What you may acquisition with Lungwort is that if you corruption it in any way, it will artlessly achromatize away. It will appear aback the afterward spring! (so don't accord up hope) It responds to corruption (too hot, too abundant sun etc) by disappearing.</div>
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Propagation and Hardiness</div>
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The easiest for the home garden is to bisect Lungwort in aboriginal bounce or in fall.</div>
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Lungwort is able appropriate bottomward to USDA area 2/3 (2 if adequate in the winter)</div>
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<strong><span style="font-size: large;">Varieties</span></strong></div>
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1933392657&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></div>
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There are some actual absorbing <a href="http://beginnervegetablegardening.blogspot.com/2010/10/lungwortdefine-lungwort-pulmonaria.html">Lungwort</a> varieties in garden centers now and the leaves appear in a advanced array of shapes, shades of blooming as able-bodied as variegations.</div>
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This is a acceptable aggregate bulb with hosta because of the choices in blade variations.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Baby Blue' This is the tightest, best compact, mounded anatomy to date and it won't abound to breach in the center. Flowers age to a admirable babyish blue.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Majeste' Solid silvery-gray leaves with a actual attenuated blooming margin. In backward spring, ablaze blush buds pop accessible to acknowledge darker bluish-pink annual bells.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Ice' Long, arctic blooming leaves belted in fair with raspberry blush annual clusters accommodate a abrupt contrast, and absolutely assume to ablaze this bulb up.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash' raspberry-pink annual clusters ball amid the aphotic green, silver-spotted leaves in backward spring. One of the added cocked growing addiction and abounding bloomers.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Samourai' Dejected flowers are produced in backward spring. The continued leaves are authentic silver.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Silver Shimmers' Clusters of almost large, steel-blue flowers are abeyant aloft the long, bouncing foliage which charcoal low. The leaves are heavily saturated with silver.</div>
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**Pulmonaria longifolia 'Bertram Anderson' Gentian dejected flowers arising from fuchia buds in backward spring. Like added P. longifolia, 'Bertram Anderson' has long, attenuated leaves heavily spotted with silver.</div>
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**Pulmonaria 'Diana Clare' angel blooming leaves biconcave in argent accumulate their blush all division long. Their long, acicular leaves adverse able-bodied with the violet-blue flowers</div>
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**Pulmonaria longifolia 'Roy Davidson' mounded foliage of 'Roy Davidson' is heavily spotted with argent and are continued and narrow. One of the abate varieties.</div>
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**Pulmonaria officinalis 'Sissinghurst White' White flowering, the leaves are brindled with silver.</div>
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**Pulmonaria saccharata 'Mrs. Moon' an earlier variety, it has mounded, argent spotted foliage. In backward spring, magenta-pink buds accessible to ablaze dejected bell-shaped flowers.</div>
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<b>Lungwort</b> is a accomplished adumbration garden bulb and I confess, one of my favorites.</div>
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Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-82451061434677031822010-10-27T06:38:00.000+02:002013-06-04T22:37:07.367+02:00Beginner Vegetable gardening - General guidance<div align="justify">
<b>Beginner Vegetable Gardening</b><br />
<b><br /></b>
It is with an activity in which there is article of abhorrence that I close</div>
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these pages--fear that abounding of those little things which become second</div>
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nature to the agriculturalist of plants and assume unimportant, but which</div>
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sometimes are aloof the things that the abecedarian wants to apperceive about,</div>
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=160342475X&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>may accept been aback larboard out. In every operation described,</div>
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however, I accept approved to acknowledgment all all-important details. I would urge</div>
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the reader, nevertheless, to abstraction as thoroughly as accessible all the</div>
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garden problems with which he will acquisition himself confronted and to this</div>
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end acclaim that he apprehend several of the abounding garden books which are</div>
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now to be had. It will be to his advantage to see alike the same</div>
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subjects presented afresh from added credibility of view. The added familiar</div>
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he can accomplish himself, both in approach and in practice, with all the</div>
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multitude of operations which avant-garde agronomical involves, the</div>
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greater the success he will attain.</div>
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Personally, the added I accept gone into the growing of things--and</div>
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that has now become my business as able-bodied as my pleasure--the more</div>
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absorbingly absorbing I acquisition it. Anniversary season, anniversary crop, offers its</div>
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own problems and a accolade for the actual band-aid of them. It is a</div>
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work which, alike to the beginner, presents the befalling of deducting</div>
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new conclusions, aggravating fresh experiments, authoritative fresh discoveries. It is</div>
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a assignment which offers affable and advantageous amusement to the abounding whose</div>
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days charge be, for the best part, spent in appointment or shop; and it gives</div>
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very abundant advice in the world-old botheration of authoritative both ends</div>
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meet.</div>
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Let the garden abecedarian not be aghast if he does not succeed, for</div>
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the aboriginal division or two, or possibly three, with aggregate he plants.</div>
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There is usually a preventable acumen for the failure, and studious</div>
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observation will acknowledge it. With the avant-garde success in the application</div>
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of insecticides and fungicides, and the addendum of the convenance of</div>
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0028620054&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>irrigation, the accountable of agronomical begins to be bargain to a</div>
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scientific and (what is added to the point) a abiding basis. We are getting</div>
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control of the ambiguous factors. All this affects first, perhaps, the</div>
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person who grows for profit, but with our present advanced apportionment of</div>
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every fresh abstraction and analysis in such matters, it charge ability anon to</div>
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every alien home garden application which is cared for by a wide-awake</div>
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gardener.</div>
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Such a person, from the actuality that he or she is account a fresh garden</div>
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book, I booty the clairvoyant to be. I achievement this volume, abridged admitting it</div>
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is, has added to your armamentarium of applied garden information; that it</div>
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will advice to abound that accepted additional brand of grass. I accept alone to</div>
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add, as I about-face afresh to the problems cat-and-mouse for me in acreage and under</div>
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glass, that I ambition you all success in your work--the authoritative of better</div>
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gardens in America.<br />
<b>Beginner Vegetable Gardening</b></div>
Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-63331175719937430342010-10-27T06:26:00.001+02:002013-10-04T12:45:33.425+02:00Calendar of Home Vegetable Gardening for all the year, Planting plan<span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><b>Planting Plan</b>. The importance of accurately planning the work ahead was emphasized I mentioned there the check list used to make sure that everything would be carried out, or started ahead at the proper time--as with the sowing</span></div>
<br /><script src="http://pagead2.googlesyndication.com/pagead/show_ads.js" type="text/javascript">
</script>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;">of seeds. The following garden operations, given month by month, will serve not only as a timely reminder of things to be done, but as the basis for such a check list.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: yellow;"><iframe align="left" class="cnlzywwjverfqfjqurve" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B002E7AVU6&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: #20124d;">JANUARY</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Probably one of the good resolutions made with the New Year was a better garden for the coming summer. The psychologists claim that the only hope for resolutions is to nail them down at the start with an action--that seems to have more effect in making an actual impression on the brain. So start the good work along by sending at once for several of the leading seed catalogs.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Planting Plan. Make out a list of what you are going to want this year, and then make your <b><i style="background-color: #fff2cc;">Planting Plan</i></b>.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Seeds. Order your seed. Do it now while the seed store's stock is full; while he is not rushed; while there is ample time to rectify mistakes if any occur.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Manures. Altogether too few amateur gardeners realize the great importance of procuring early every pound of manures, of any kind, to be had. It often may be had cheaply at this time of year, and by composting, adding phosphate, and several turnings, if you have any place under cover where it can be collected, you can double its value before spring.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Frames. Even at this season of the year do not fail to air the frames well on warm days. Practically no water will be needed, but if the soil does dry out sufficiently to need it, apply early on a bright morning.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Onions. It will not be too early, this month, to sow onions for spring transplanting outside. Get a packet each of Prizetaker, AilsaCraig, Mammoth Silver-skin, or Gigantic Gibraltar. Lettuce. Sow lettuce for spring crop under glass or in frames.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #20124d; font-family: ArialMT;">Fruit. This is a good month to prune grapes, currants, gooseberries and peach trees, to avoid the rush that will come later.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white;">FEBRUARY</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #660000;">Hotbeds. A little early for making them until after the 15th, but get all your material ready--manure, selected and stacked; lumber ready for any new ones; sash all in good repair. Starting Seeds. First part of the month, earliest planting of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce should be made; and two to four weeks later for main early crop. At this time also, beets and earliest celery.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #660000;">Tools. Overhaul them all now; order repairs. Get new catalogs and study new improvements and kinds you do not possess. Poles and brush. Whether you use the old-fashioned sort (now harder to obtain than they used to be) or make your "poles" and use wire trellis for peas, attend to it now. Fruit. Finish up last month's work, if not all done. Also examine plum and cherry trees for black-knot.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">MARCH</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">Hotbeds. If not made last of February, should be made at once. Some of the seed sown last month will be ready for transplanting and going into the frames; also lettuce sown in January. Radish and carrot</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">(forcing varieties) may be sown in alternating rows. Give much more air; water on bright mornings; be careful not to have them caught by suddenly cold nights after a bright warm day.</span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">Seed-sowing under glass. Last sowing of early cabbage and early summer cabbages (like Succession), lettuce, rhubarb (for seedling plants), cauliflower, radish, spinach, turnip, and early tomatoes; towards last of month, late tomatoes and first of peppers, and eggplant. Sweet peas often find a place in the vegetable garden; start a few early, to set out later; they will do better than if started outside. Start tomatoes for growing in frames. For early potatoes sprout in sand.</span></span></div>
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<span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13; font-family: ArialMT;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="background-color: white; color: #274e13;">Planting, outside. If an early spring, and the ground is sufficiently dry, sow onions, lettuce, beet, radish, (sweet peas), smooth peas, early carrot, cabbage, leek, celery (main crop), and turnip. Set out new beds of asparagus, rhubarb and sea-kale (be sure to try a few plants of the latter). Manure and fork up old beds of above. Fruit. Prune now, apple, plum and pear trees.</span></span><br />
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<iframe align="left" class="cnlzywwjverfqfjqurve" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1571985204&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">APRIL</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">Now the rush is on! Plan your work, and work your plan. But do not yield to the temptation to plant more than you can look out for later on. Remember it is much easier to sow seeds than to pull out weeds.</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">The Frames. Air! water! and do not let the green plant-lice or the white-fly get a ghost of a chance to start. Almost every day the glass should be lifted entirely off. Care must be taken never to let the soil or flats become dried out; toward the end of the month, if it is bright and warm, begin watering towards evening instead of in early morning, as you should have been doing through the winter. If proper attention is given to ventilation and moisture, there will not be much danger from the green plant-louse (aphis) and white-fly, but at the first sign of one fight them to a finish. Use kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, tobacco preparations, or Aphine. Seed sowing. Under glass: tomato, egg-plant and peppers. On sod: corn, cucumbers, melons, early squash, lima beans.</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">Planting, outside. Onions, lettuce, beet, etc., if not put in last month; also parsnip, salsify, parsley, wrinkled peas, endive. Toward the end of this month (or first part of next) second plantings of these. Set out plants of early cabbage (and the cabbage group) lettuce, onion sets, sprouted potatoes, beets, etc.</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">In the Garden. Cultivate between rows of sowed crops; weed out y hand just as soon as they are up enough to be seen; watch for cutworms and root-maggots.</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">Fruit. Thin out all old blackberry canes, dewberry and raspberry canes (if this was not done, as it should have been, directly after the fruiting season last summer). Be ready for first spraying of earlyblossoming</span></div>
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<span style="color: purple; font-family: ArialMT;">trees. Set out new strawberry beds, small fruits and fruit trees.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">MAY</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">Keep ahead of the weeds. This is the month when those warm, south, driving rains often keep the ground too wet to work for days at a time, and weeds grow by leaps and bounds. Woe betide the gardener ose rows of sprouting onions, beets, carrots, etc., once become green with wild turnip and other rapid-growing intruders. Clean cultivation and slight hilling of plants set out are also essential.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">The Frames. These will not need so much attention now, but care must be taken to guard tender plants, such as tomatoes, egg-plant and peppers, against sudden late frosts. The sash may be left off most of the time. Water copiously and often.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">Planting, outside. First part of the month: early beans, early corn, okra and late potatoes may be put in; and first tomatoes set out --even if a few are lost--they are readily replaced. Finish setting out cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, beets, etc., from frames. Latter part of month, if warm: corn, cucumbers, some of sods from frames and early squash as traps where late crop is to be planted or set.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">Fruit. Be on time with first sprayings of late-blossoming fruits--apples, etc. Rub off from grape vines the shoots that are not wanted.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><br /></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: #f4cccc;"><iframe align="left" class="cnlzywwjverfqfjqurve" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1571984887&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: #660000;">JUNE</span></span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: ArialMT;">Frequent, shallow cultivation! Firm seeds in dry soil. Plant wax beans, lima beans, pole beams, melons, corn, etc., and successive crops of lettuce, radish, etc. Top-dress growing crops that need special manure (such as nitrate of soda on onions). Prune tomatoes, and cut out some foliage for extra early tomatoes. Toward end of month set celery and late cabbage. Also sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for early fall crops. Spray where</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: ArialMT;">necessary. Allow asparagus to grow to tops. Fruit. Attend to spraying fruit trees and currants and</span></div>
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<span style="color: #660000; font-family: ArialMT;">gooseberries. Make pot-layers of strawberries for July setting.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000; font-family: ArialMT;">JULY</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000; font-family: ArialMT;">Maintain frequent, shallow cultivation. Set out late cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, leeks and celery. Sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for late fall crops. Irrigate where needed.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000; font-family: ArialMT;">Fruit. Pinch back new canes of blackberry, dewberry and raspberry. Rub off second crop of buds on grapes. Thin out if too many bunches; also on plums, peaches and other fruit too thick, or touching.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000; font-family: ArialMT;">Pot-layered strawberries may be set out.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: Arial-BoldMT;">AUGUST</span></div>
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</span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"></span></span>
<br />
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<span style="color: #073763; font-family: ArialMT;">Keep the garden clean from late weeds--especially purslane, the hotweather weed pest, which should be always removed from the garden and disposed of or rotted down.</span></div>
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</span></span>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: #073763;">Sow spinach, rutabaga turnip, bush beans and peas for last fall crop. During first part of month, late celery may still be put out. Sow lettuce for early fall crop, in frames. First lot of endive should be tied up for blanching.</span></span></div>
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</span>
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<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: #073763;">Fruit. Strawberries may be set, and pot-layered plants, if wanted to bear a full crop the following season, should be put in. Thin out and bag grapes.</span></span></div>
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<iframe align="left" class="cnlzywwjverfqfjqurve" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1554563690&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>SEPTEMBER</div>
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Frames. Set in lettuce started in August. Sow radishes and successive crop of lettuce. Cooler weather begins to tell on lateplanted crops. Give cabbage, cauliflower, etc., deeper cultivation.</div>
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"Handle" celery wanted for early use. Harvest and store onions. Get squash under cover before frost. From the 15th to 25th sow spinach, onions, borecole for wintering over. Sow down thickly to rye all plots as fast as cleared of summer crops; or plow heavy land in ridges. Attend to draining.</div>
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Fruit. Trees may be set. Procure barrels for storing fruit in winter. At harvest time it is often impossible to get them at any price.</div>
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<span style="color: blue;">OCTOBER</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Get ready for winter. Blanch rest of endive. Bank celery, to be used before Christmas, where it is. Gather tomatoes, melons, etc., to keep as long as possible. Keep especially clean and well cultivated all crops to be wintered over. Late in the month store cabbage and cauliflower; also beets, carrots, and other root crops. Get boxes, barrels, bins, sand or sphagnum moss ready beforehand, to save time in packing.</span></div>
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<span style="color: blue;">Clean the garden; store poles, etc., worth keeping over; burn everything else that will not rot; and compost everything that will. Fruit. Harvest apples, etc. Pick winter pears just before hard frosts, and store in dry dark place.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13;">NOVEMBER</span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13;">Frames. Make deep hotbeds for winter lettuce and radishes. Construct frames for use next spring. See that vegetables in basement, bins, and sheds are safe from freezing. Trench or store celery for spring use. Take in balance of all root crops if any remain in the ground, except, of course, parsnip and salsify for spring use. Put</span></div>
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<span style="color: #274e13;">rough manure on asparagus and rhubarb beds. Get mulch ready for spinach, etc., to be wintered over, if they occupy exposed locations. Fruit. Obtain marsh or salt hay for mulching strawberries. Cut out old wood of cane-fruits--blackberries, etc., if not done after gathering fruit. Look over fruit trees for borers.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000;">DECEMBER</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000;">Cover celery stored last month, if trenched out-of-doors. Use only light, loose material at first, gradually covering for winter. Put mulch on spinach, etc.</span></div>
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<span style="color: #7f6000;">Fruit. Mulch strawberries. Prune grape-vines; make first application of winter sprays for fruit trees.</span></div>
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AND THEN</div>
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Set about procuring manures of all kinds from every available source. Remember that anything which will rot will add to the value of your manure pile. Muck, lime, old plastering, sods, weeds (earth and all), street, stable and yard sweepings--all these and a good <b>Calendar of Home Vegetable Gardening - Planting Plan</b> will increase your garden successes of next year.</div>
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A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS <br />
<span style="background-color: #fcffe8; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left;"><span style="color: white;">PVAE62387MCX</span></span><span style="background-color: #fcffe8; color: #222222; font-family: 'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif; font-size: 12px; line-height: 16px; text-align: left;"> </span></div>
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Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-61213714320397658572010-10-27T00:05:00.000+02:002010-10-27T00:05:13.478+02:00The Grape - Pruning and care<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"> <div style="text-align: right;"><strong><span style="color: lime;">THE GRAPE</span></strong></div><div style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">No garden is so small that there cannot be found in it room for three or four grape-vines; no fruit is more certain, and few more delicious.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">If it is convenient, a situation fully exposed to the sun, and sloping slightly, will be preferable. But any good soil, provided only it is rich and thoroughly drained, will produce good results. If a few vines</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">are to be set against walls, or in other out-of-the-way places, prepare the ground for them by excavating a good-sized hole, putting in a foot of coal cinders or other drainage material, and refilling with good</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">heavy loam, enriched with old, well rotted manure and half a peck of wood ashes. For culture in the garden, such special preparation will not be necessary--although, if the soil is not in good shape, it will be advisable to slightly enrich the hills.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">One or two-year roots will be the most satisfactory to buy. They may be set in either fall or spring--the latter time, for New York or north, being generally preferable. When planting, the cane should be cut back to three or four eyes, and the roots should also be shortened back-- usually about one-third. Be sure to make the hole large enough, when setting, to let the roots spread naturally, and work the soil in well around them with the fingers. Set them in firmly, by pressing down hard with the ball of the foot after firming by hand. They are set about six feet apart.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000RGRTNS&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><strong><span style="color: lime;">GRAPE PRUNING</span></strong></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">As stated above, the vine is cut back, when planting, to three or four eyes. The subsequent pruning--and the reader must at once distinguish between pruning, and training, or the way in which the vines are placed--will determine more than anything else the success of the undertaking. Grapes depend more upon proper pruning than any other fruit or vegetable in the garden. Two principles must be kept track of</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">in this work. First principle: the annual crop is borne only on canes of the same year's growth, springing from wood of the previous season's growth. Second principle: the vine, if left to itself, will set three or four times the number of bunches it can properly</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">mature. As a result of these facts, the following system of pruning has been developed and must be followed for sure and full-sized crops.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">(1) At time of planting, cut back to three or four eyes, and after these sprout leave only one (or two) of them, which should be staked up.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">(2) Following winter (December to March), leave only one cane and cut this back to three or four eyes.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">(3) Second growing season, save only two canes, even if several sprout, and train these to stake or trellis. These two vines, or arms, branching from the main stem, form the foundation for the one-year canes that bear the fruit. However, to prevent the vine's setting too much fruit (see second principle above) these arms must be cut back in order to limit the number of fruit-bearing canes that will spring from them, therefore:</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">(4) Second winter pruning, cut back these arms to eight or ten buds-- and we have prepared for the first crop of fruit, about forty bunches, as the fruiting cane from each bud will bear two bunches on the average. However these main arms will not bear fruiting-canes another year (see first principle above) and therefore:</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">(5) At the third winter pruning, (a) of the canes that bore fruit, only the three or four nearest the main stem or trunk are left; (b) these are cut back to eight or ten buds each, and (c) everything else is <ruthlessly cut away.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Each succeeding year the same system is continued, care being taken to rub off, each May, buds or sprouts starting on the main trunk or arms.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The wood, in addition to being cut back, must be well ripened; and the wood does not ripen until after the fruit. It therefore sometimes becomes necessary to cut out some of the bunches in order to hasten the</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">ripening of the rest. At the same time the application of some potassium fertilizer will be helpful. If the bunches do not ripen up quickly and pretty nearly together, the vine is overloaded and being damaged for</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">the following year.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The matter of pruning being mastered, the question of training is one of individual choice. Poles, trellises, arbors, walls--almost anything may be used. The most convenient system, however, and the one I would</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">strongly recommend for practical home gardening for results, is known as the (modified) Kniffen system. It is simplicity itself. A stout wire is stretched five or six feet above the ground; to this the single main trunks of the vine run up, and along it are stretched the two or three arms from which the fruiting-canes hang down. They occupy the least possible space, so that garden crops may be grown practically on the same ground. I have never seen it tried, but where garden space is limited I should think that the asparagus bed and the Kniffen grapearbor just described could be combined to great advantage by placing the vines, in spaces left for them, directly in the asparagus row. Of course the ground would have to be manured for two crops. A 2-8-10</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000288XPO&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>fertilizer is right for the grapes. If using stable manure, apply also potassium fertilizer.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">If the old-fashioned arbor is used, the best way is to run the main trunk up over it and cut the laterals back each year to two or three eyes.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The most serious grape trouble which the home gardener is likely to encounter is the black-rot. Where only a few grapes are grown, the simplest way of overcoming this disease is to get a few dozen cheap manila store-bags and fasten one, with a couple of ten-penny nails, over each bunch. Cut the mouth of the bag at sides and edges, cover the bunch, fold the flaps formed over the cane, and fasten.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"> They are put on after the bunches are well formed and hasten the ripening of the fruit, as well as protecting it. On a larger scale, spraying will have to be resorted to. Besides the spraying, all trimmed- off wood, old leaves and twigs, withered bunches and grapes, or "mummies," and refuse of every description, should be carefully raked up in the spring and disposed of. Also give clean culture and keep the main stems clean.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The grape completes the list of the small fruits worth while to the average home gardener. If you have not already experimented with them, do not let your garden go any longer without them. They are all easily</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">obtained, and a very limited number will keep the family table well supplied with healthy delicacies, which otherwise, in their best varieties and condition, could not be had at all. The various operations of setting out, pruning and spraying will soon become as familiar as those in the vegetable garden. There is no reason why every home garden should not have its few rows of small fruits, yielding their delicious harvests in abundance.</span></div></span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-58094743671581515572010-10-26T23:46:00.000+02:002010-10-26T23:46:37.548+02:00The Gooseberry - Enemies and Varieties<div align="justify">THE GOOSEBERRY</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">This is accustomed about the aforementioned analysis as the currant. It is even more important that it should be accustomed the coolest, airiest, location possible, and the best clammy soil. Even a partially black situation will do, but in such situations added affliction charge be taken to guard against the mildew--which is mentioned below. Summer mulching is, of course, of appropriate benefit.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">In pruning the gooseberry, it is best to cut out to a actual few, or even to a distinct stem. Keep the arch open, to acquiesce chargeless apportionment of air. The admeasurement of pruning will accomplish a abundant aberration in the admeasurement of the fruit; if bake-apple of the better admeasurement is wanted, clip actual close. All branches angled to the arena should be removed. Keep the branches, as abundant as possible, from affecting anniversary other.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000FFPL1I&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>GOOSEBERRY ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify">The currant-worm attacks the gooseberry also, and is effectively handled by the spraying mentioned above.</div><div align="justify">The abundant agitation in growing gooseberries auspiciously is the powdery mildew--a dirty, blanched fungous advance accoutrement both bake-apple and leaves.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">It is abnormally annihilative of the adopted varieties, the ability of which, until the appearance of the potassium sulfide spray, was being practically abandoned. Use 1 oz. of potassium sulfide (liver of sulphur) to 2 gals. water, and mix aloof afore using. Aerosol thoroughly three or four times a month, from the time the blossoms are openinguntil bake-apple is ripe.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>GOOSEBERRY VARIETIES</strong></div><div align="justify">Of the built-in gooseberries--which are the hardiest, Downing and Houghton's Seedling are best used. Industry is an English variety, doing able-bodied here. Golden Prolific, Champion, and Columbus, are other</div><div align="justify">good adopted sorts, but alone back the bane is auspiciously fought off.</div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-71753941298693566122010-10-26T23:33:00.000+02:002010-10-26T23:33:22.105+02:00Currants - Pruning, Enemies and Varieties<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"> <div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B00007L12O&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>The currant and gooseberry are very similar in their cultural requirements. A deep, rich and moist soil is the best--approaching a clayey loam. There need be no fear of giving too much manure, but it should be well rotted. Plenty of room, plenty of air, plenty of moisture, secured where necessary by a soil or other mulch in hot dry weather, are essential to the production of the best fruit.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">The currant will stand probably as much abuse as any plant the home gardener will have to deal with. Stuck in a corner, smothered in sod, crowded with old wood, stripped by the currant-worm, it still struggles</div><div align="left">along from year to year, ever hopefully trying to produce a meager crop of poor fruit. But these are not the sort you want. Although it is so tough, no fruit will respond to good care more quickly.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">To have it do well, give it room, four or five feet each way between bushes. Manure it liberally; give it clean cultivation, and as the season gets hot and dry, mulch the soil, if you would be certain of a full-sized, full-flavored crop. Two bushes, well cared for, will yield more than a dozen half-neglected ones. Anywhere north of New York a <span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001G615OM&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>full crop every year may be made almost certain.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>PRUNING CURRANTS</strong></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Besides careful cultivation, to insure the best of fruit it is necessary to give some thought to the matter of pruning. The most convenient and the most satisfactory way is to keep it in the bush form. Set the plants singly, three or four feet apart, and so cut the</div><div align="left">new growth, which is generously produced, as to retain a uniform bush shape, preferably rather open in the center.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">The fruit is produced on wood two or more years old. Therefore cut out branches either when very small, or not until four or five years later, after it has borne two or three crops of fruit. Therefore, in pruning currants, take out (1) superfluous young growth; (2) old hard wood (as new wood will produce better fruit); and (3) all weak, broken, dead or diseased shoots; (4) during summer, if the tips of the young growths kept for fruiting are pinched off, they will ripen up much better-- meaning better fruit when they bear; (5) to maintain a good form, the whole plant may be cut back (never more than one-third) in the fall.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">In special situations it may be advisable to train the currant to one or a few main stems, as against a wall; this can be done, but it is less convenient. Also it brings greater danger from the currant-borer.</div><div align="left">The black currant, used almost entirely for culinary or preserving purposes, is entirely different from the red and white ones. They are much larger and should be put five to six feet apart. Some of the fruit is borne on one-year-old wood, so the shoots should not be cut back. Moreover, old wood bears as good fruit as the new growth, and need not be cut out, unless the plant is getting crowded, for several years. As the wood is much heavier and stronger than the other currants, it is advisable gradually to develop the black currants into the tree form.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>ENEMIES OF THE CURRANT</strong></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">The worst of these is the common currant-worm. When he appears, which will be indicated by holes eaten in the lower leaves early in spring, generally before the plants bloom, spray at once. For the borer, cut and</div><div align="left">dispose of every infested shoot. Examine the bushes in late fall, and those in which the borers are at work will usually have a wilted appearance and be of a brownish color.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>VARIETIES OF CURRANTS</strong></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Red Dutch, while older and smaller than some of the newer varieties, is hardier and not so likely to be hurt by the borer. London Market, Fay's Prolific, Perfection (new), and Prince Albert, are good sorts. White Grape is a good white. Naples, and Lee's Prolific are good black sorts.</div></span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-54001103130953052272010-10-26T23:17:00.000+02:002010-10-26T23:17:04.982+02:00Varieties of berries How many are there?<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMdEwfDbS4I/AAAAAAAAAL4/gtVzdHtZOWY/s1600/berries.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nx="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMdEwfDbS4I/AAAAAAAAAL4/gtVzdHtZOWY/s400/berries.jpg" width="238" /></a></div><div align="left">New strawberries are being introduced constantly; also, they vary greatly in their adaptation to locality. Therefore it is difficult to advise as to what varieties to plant. Once again a catalog from a reputable</div><div align="left">nursery will prove invaluable in selecting the right varieties.</div><div align="left">The blackberry, dewberry and raspberry are all treated in much the same way. The soil should be well drained, but if a little clayey, so much the better. They are planned preferably in early spring, and set from</div><div align="left">three or four to six or seven feet apart, according to the variety.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">They should be put in firmly. Set the plants in about as deep as they have been growing, and cut the canes back to six or eight inches. If fruit is wanted the same season as bushes are set, get a few extra plants--they cost but a few cents--and cut back to two feet or so.</div><div align="left">Plants fruited the first season are not likely to do well the following year. Two plants may be set in a place and one fruited. If this one is exhausted, then little will be lost. Give clean cultivation frequently enough to maintain a soil mulch, as it is very necessary to retain all the moisture possible. Cultivation, though frequent, should be very shallow as soon as the plants get a good start. In very hot seasons, if the ground is clean, a summer mulch of old hay, leaves or rough manure will be good for the same purpose.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">In growing, a good stout stake is used for each plant, to which the canes are tied with some soft material. Or, a stout wire is strung the length of the row and the canes fastened to this--a better way, however, being to string two wires, one on either side of the row. Another very important matter is that of pruning. The plants if left to themselves will throw up altogether too much wood. This must be cut out to four or five of the new canes and all the canes that have borne fruit should be cut and burned each season as soon as through fruiting.</div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001689REU&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>The canes, for instance, that grow in 2009 will be those to fruit in 2010 after which they should be immediately removed. The new canes, if they are to be self-supporting, as sometimes grown, should be cut back when three or four feet high.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">It is best, however, to give support. In the case of those varieties which make fruiting side-shoots, as most of the black raspberries (blackcaps) do, the canes should be cut back at two to three feet, and it is well also to cut back these side shoots one-third to one-half, early in the spring.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">In cold sections (New York or north of it) it is safest to give winter protection by "laying down" the canes and giving them a mulch of rough material. Having them near the ground is in itself a great protection, as they will not be exposed to sun and wind and will sometimes be covered with snow.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">For mulching, the canes are bent over nearly at the soil and a shovelful of earth thrown on the tips to hold them down; the entire canes may then be covered with soil or rough manure, but do not put it on until freezing weather is at hand. If a mulch is used, it must be taken off before growth starts in the spring.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>THE BLACKBERRY</strong></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">The large-growing sorts are set as much as six by eight feet apart, though with careful staking and pruning they may be comfortably handled in less space. The smaller sorts need about four by six. When growth</div><div align="left">starts, thin out to four or five canes and pinch these off at about three feet; or, if they are to be put on wires or trellis, they may be cut when tied up the following spring. Cultivate, mulch and prune as suggested above.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Blackberries will do well on a soil a little dry for raspberries and they do not need it quite so rich, as in this case the canes do not ripen up sufficiently by fall, which is essential for good crops. If growing rank they should be pinched back in late August. When tying up in the spring, the canes should be cut back to four or five feet and the laterals to not more than eighteen inches.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Blackberry enemies do not do extensive injury, as a rule, in wellcared- for beds. The most serious are: </div><div align="left">(1) the rust or blight, for which there is no cure but carefully pulling and disposing of the plants as fast as infested; </div><div align="left">(2) the blackberry-bush borer, which burn infested canes; and </div><div align="left">(3) the recently introduced bramble flea-louse, which resembles the green plant-louse or aphids except that it is a brisk jumper, like the flea-beetle. The leaves twist and curl up in summer and do not drop off in the fall. On cold early mornings, or wet weather, while the insects are sluggish, cut all infested shoots, collecting them in a tight box, and dispose.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0017ZVDJ4&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>BLACKBERRY VARIETIES</strong></div><div align="left">As with the other small fruits, so many varieties are being introduced that it is difficult to give a list of the best for home use.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>THE DEWBERRY</strong></div><div align="left">This is really a trailing blackberry and needs the same culture, except</div><div align="left">that the canes are naturally slender and trailing and therefore, for</div><div align="left">garden culture, must have support. They may be staked up, or a barrel</div><div align="left">hoop, supported by two stakes, makes a good support. In ripening, the</div><div align="left">dewberry is ten to fourteen days earlier than the blackberry, and for</div><div align="left">that reason a few plants should be included in the berry patch.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>RASPBERRY</strong></div><div align="left">The black and the red types are distinct in flavor, and both should be grown. The blackcaps need more room, about three by six or seven feet; for the reds three by five feet will be sufficient. The blackcaps, and</div><div align="left">a few of the reds, throw out fruiting side branches, and should have the main canes cut back at about two and a half feet to encourage the growth of these laterals, which, in the following spring, should be cut back</div><div align="left">to about one-third their length. The soil for raspberries should be clayey if possible, and moist, but not wet.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>RASPBERRY ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="left">The orange rust, which attacks the blackberry also, is a serious trouble. Pull up and dispose of all infested plants at once, as no good remedy has as yet been found. The cut-worm, especially in newly set beds, may sometimes prove destructive of the sprouting young canes. The raspberry-borer is the larva of a small, flattish, red-necked beetle, which bores to the center of the canes during summer growth, and kills</div><div align="left">them. Cut and dispose.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><strong>RASPBERRY VARIETIES</strong></div><div align="left">Of the blackcaps, Gregg, McCormick, Munger, Cumberland, Columbian, Palmer (very early), and Eureka (late), are all good sorts. </div><div align="left">Reds: Cuthbert, Cardinal (new), Turner, Reliance, The King (extra early), Loudon (late). Yellow: Golden Queen.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Picture on top right by <a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=172">Maggie Smith / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a></div></span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-71901012101370221622010-10-26T22:46:00.001+02:002010-10-26T22:55:30.789+02:00Berries and Small Fruits - Setting, Cultivation and mulching<span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMc9hcMNiNI/AAAAAAAAAL0/Ui1MwE-ghA0/s1600/blueberry.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: cyan;"><img border="0" nx="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMc9hcMNiNI/AAAAAAAAAL0/Ui1MwE-ghA0/s1600/blueberry.jpg" /></span></a></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">Besides the tree-fruits discussed in the preceding chapters, there is another class which should be represented in every home garden-- the berries and small fruits. These have the advantage of occupying</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">much less room than the former do and are therefore available where the others are not.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">The methods of giving berries proper cultivation are not so generally known as the methods used with vegetables. Otherwise there is no reason why a few of each should not be included in every garden of average size. Their requirements are not exacting: the amount of skill, or rather of attention, required to care for them is not more than that required by the ordinary vegetables. In fact, once they are well established they will demand less time than the annual vegetables. Of these small fruits the most popular and useful are: the strawberry, the blackberry, dewberry and raspberry, the currant, gooseberry and grape.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000FFLHSY&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">The strawberry is the most important, and most amateurs attempt its culture--many, however, with indifferent success. This is due, partly at least, to the fact that many methods are advocated by successful growers, and that the beginner is not likely to pick out one and stick to it; and further, that he is led to pay more attention to how many layers he will have, and at what distance he will set the plants, than to proper selection and preparation of soil and other vital matters.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">The soil should be well drained and rich--a good garden soil being suitable. The strawberries should not follow sod or corn. If yard manure is used it should be old and well rotted, so as to be as free as possible from weed seeds. potassium, in some form (see Fertilizers) should be added. The bed should be thoroughly prepared, so that the plants, which need careful transplanting, may take hold at once. A good sunny</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">exposure is preferable, and a spot where no water will collect is essential.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">The plants are grown from "layers." They are taken in two ways: (1) by rooting the runners in the soil; and (2) by layering in pots. In the former method they are either allowed to root themselves, or, which gives decidedly better results, by selecting vines from strong plants and pushing them lightly down into the soil where the new crown is to be formed. In the second method, two-inch or three-inch pots are used, filling these with soil from the bed and plunging, or burying, them level with the surface, just below where the crown is to be formed, and holding the vine in place with a small stone, which serves the additional purpose of marking where the pot is. In either case these layers are made after the fruiting season.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><strong>SETTING THE PLANTS</strong></span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">In using the soil-rooted layers, it is generally more satisfactory to set them out in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, although they are sometimes set in early fall--August or September--when the ground is in very good condition, so that a good growth can at once be made. Care should be used in transplanting. Have the bed fresh; keep the plants out of the soil as short a time as possible; set the plants</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">in straight, and firm the soil; set just down to the crown--do not cover it. If the soil is dry, or the season late, cut off all old leaves before planting; also shorten back the roots about one-third and be sure not to crowd them when setting, for which purpose a trowel, not a dibble, should be used if the condition of the ground makes the use of any implement necessary. If so dry that water must be used, apply it in the bottom of the hole. If very hot and dry, shade for a day or two.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><strong>METHODS OF GROWING</strong></span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001WAL3XA&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">Here I will describe the three systems most valuable for the home garden:</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">(1) the hill, (2) the matted row, and (3) the pot-layered.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">(1) In the hill system the plants are put in single rows, or in beds of three or four rows, the plants one foot apart and the rows, or beds, two or three feet apart. In either case each plant is kept separate, and all runners are pinched off as fast as they form, the idea being to throw all the strength into one strong crown.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">(2) In the matted row system the plants are set in single rows, and the runners set in the bed at five or six inches each side of the plants, and then trained lengthways of the row, this making it a foot or so wide.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">The runners used to make these secondary crowns must be the first ones sent out by the plants; they should be severed from the parent plants as soon as well rooted. All other runners must be taken off as they form. To keep the beds for a good second crop, where the space between the rows has been kept cultivated and clean, cut out the old plants as soon as the first crop of berries is gathered, leaving the new ones--layered the year before-- about one foot apart.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">(3) The pot-layering system, especially for a small number of plants, I consider the best. It will be seen that by the above systems the ground is occupied three years, to get two crops, and the strawberry season is a</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">short one at best. By this third system the strawberry is made practically an annual, and the finest of berries are produced. The new plants are layered in pots, as described above. The layers are taken immediately</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">after the fruit is gathered; or better still, because earlier, a few plants are picked out especially to make runners. In either case, fork up the soil about the plants to be layered, and in about fifteen days they will be ready to have the pots placed under them. The main point is to have pot plants ready to go into the new bed as soon as possible after the middle of July. </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">These are set out as in the hill system, and all runners kept pinched off, so that a large crown has been formed by the time the ground freezes, and a full crop of the very best berries will be assured for the following spring. The pot-layering is repeated each year, and the old plants thrown out, no attempt being made to get a second crop. It will be observed that ground is occupied by the strawberries only the latter</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">half of the one season and the beginning of the next, leaving ample time for a crop of early lettuce, cabbage or peas before the plants are set, say in 1911, and for late cabbage or celery after the bed is thrown out, in 1912. Thus the ground is made to yield three crops in two years--a very important point where garden space is limited.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><strong>CULTIVATION</strong></span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">Whatever system is used--and each has its advocates--the strawberry bed must be kept clean, and attention given to removing the surplus runners. Cultivate frequently enough to keep a dust mulch between the rows, as advocated for garden crops. At first, after setting, the cultivation may be as deep as three or four inches, but as the roots develop and fill the ground it should be restricted to two inches at most.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">MULCHING</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">After the ground freezes, and before severe cold sets in (about the 1st to the 15th of December) the bed should be given its winter mulch. Bog hay, which may be obtained cheaply from some nearby farmer, is about the best material. Clean straw will do. Cover the entire bed, one or</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">two inches over the plants, and two or three between the rows. If necessary, hold in place with old boards. In spring, but not before the plants begin to grow, over each plant the mulch is pushed aside to let it through. Besides giving winter protection, the mulch acts as a clean even support for the berries and keeps the roots cool and moist.</span></div></span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">Top right Image:</span><strong> </strong><a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=1526"><strong>Paul / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</strong></a></div></span><br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><span style="color: cyan;"><strong>BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS</strong></span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-36499612235406933922010-10-26T22:11:00.000+02:002010-10-26T22:11:50.397+02:00Known Enemies of Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear and Plum<div style="text-align: right;"><strong>APPLE ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMc1gPYyt1I/AAAAAAAAALw/io4I3WGz9NY/s1600/lightning+APPLE.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="640" nx="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMc1gPYyt1I/AAAAAAAAALw/io4I3WGz9NY/s640/lightning+APPLE.jpg" width="424" /></a></div><div align="justify">The insects best frequently advancing the angel are the codlin-moth, tent-caterpillar, canker-worm and borer. The codlin-moth lays its eggs on the bake-apple about the time of the falling of the blossoms, and the larvae back hatched eat into the adolescent bake-apple and account the ordinary wormy apples and pears. Owing to these facts, it is too backward to reach the agitation by spraying afterwards the calyx closes on the growing fruit. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Keep abutting watch and aerosol anon aloft the abatement of the blossoms, and echo the spraying a anniversary or so (not added than two) later. During July, tie strips of burlap or old accoutrements about the trunks, and every week or so abort all caterpillars bent in these traps. The tent-caterpillar may be destroyed while in the egg state, as these are audibly arresting around the abate twigs in circular, brownish masses.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001AO27WO&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>The railroad-worm, a baby white bastard which eats a baby aisle in all directions through the ripening fruit, cannot be accomplished by spraying, as he starts activity central the fruit; but area acceptable apple-pie agronomics is practiced and no collapsed bake-apple is larboard to lie and adulteration below the trees,</div><div align="justify">he is not apt to accord abundant trouble.</div><div align="justify">The borer's attendance is adumbrated by the dead, addle actualization of the bark, below which he is at work, and additionally by baby amounts of sawdust area he entered. Dig him out with a aciculate pocket-knife, or kill him central with a allotment of wire.</div><div align="justify">The best alarming ache of the apple, abnormally in wet seasons, is the apple-scab, which disfigures the fruit, both in admeasurement and in appearance, as it causes blotches and distortions.</div><div align="justify">The San Jose calibration is of advance absolutely an insect, admitting in appearance it seems a disease. It is abundant added abusive than the green fruit grower would suppose, because alongside so. It is actual tiny, being round in outline, with a aloft center, and alone the admeasurement of a small pinhead. Area it has already acquired a acceptable authority it multiplies very rapidly, makes a scaly accumulation or band on the branches, and causes small red-edged spots on the bake-apple . For copse already infested, spray</div><div align="justify">thoroughly both in fall, afterwards the leaves drop, and afresh in spring, before advance begins.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>CHERRY ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Sour cherries are added calmly developed than the candied varieties, and are less accountable to the attacks of bake-apple enemies. Candied cherries are troubled by the curculio, or fruit-worm, which attacks additionally peaches and plums. Cherries and plums may be sprayed, back best of the blossoms are off.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>PEACH ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify"><strong><span><a href="http://www.amazon.com/persimmon-Bulletin-Carolina-Agricultural-Experiment/dp/B00089YGXK?ie=UTF8&tag=fanoven-20&link_code=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969" target="_blank">Insect and fungus enemies of the peach, plum, cherry, fig and persimmon (Bulletin / North Carolina Agricultural Experiment Station)</a><img alt="" border="0" height="1" src="http://www.assoc-amazon.com/e/ir?t=fanoven-20&l=btl&camp=213689&creative=392969&o=1&a=B00089YGXK" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; margin: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px !important; padding-left: 0px !important; padding-right: 0px !important; padding-top: 0px !important;" width="1" /></span></strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Do not aerosol peaches. For the curculio, aural a few canicule afterwards the flowers are off, booty a ample area of some bargain actual to use as a catcher. For ample orchards there is a angle of this sort, mounted on a barrow frame, but for the home orchard a brace of sheets laid aloft the ground, or one with a aperture from one ancillary to the center, will suffice. If four short, sharp-pointed stakes are fastened to the corners, and three or four stout hooks and eyes are placed to reunite the aperture afterwards the area is placed about the tree, the assignment can be added thoroughly done, abnormally on asperous ground. Afterwards the sheet</div><div align="justify">is placed, with a stout club or mallet, bedlam with a abundant sack or something agnate to anticipate abrasion to the bark, accord a few sharp blows, able-bodied up from the ground. This assignment should be done on a cloudy day, or aboriginal in the morning--the colder the better--as the beetles are then inactive. If a ample cardinal of beetles are bent the operation should be again every two or three days. Continue until the beetles disappear.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Peaches are afflicted additionally by borers, in this case adumbrated by masses of gum, usually about the crown. Dig out or annihilate with a wire, as in the case of the apple-borer. Look over the copse for borers every spring, or better, every bounce and fall.</div><div align="justify">Another acceptable adversary is the "yellows," adumbrated by abortive ripening of the bake-apple and the accumulation of bantam blade tufts, of a ablaze yellow color. This ache is catching and has frequently formed calamity in whole sections. Owing to the assignment of the Agricultural Department and the assorted Accompaniment organizations it is now captivated in check. The only remedy is to cut and actuate of the copse and replant, in the aforementioned places if desired, as, the ache does not assume to be agitated by the soil.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>PEAR ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Pears are sometimes afflicted with a band agnate to the apple-scab, and this is combated by the aforementioned analysis of spraying A bane which causes the leaves aback to about-face atramentous and die and also kills some baby branches and produces sores or wounds on large branches and trunk, offers addition difficulty. Cut out and actuate of all affected branches and scrape out all sores.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0031VBHNY&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>PLUM ENEMIES</strong></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Plums accept abounding enemies but auspiciously they can all be effectively checked. Aboriginal is the curculio, to be advised as declared above.</div><div align="justify">For leaf-blight--spotting and bottomward off of the leaves about midsummer- attenuate out the bake-apple so that it does not adhere thickly enough for the plums to arise in acquaintance with anniversary other.</div><div align="justify">In a able-bodied kept and able-bodied sprayed orchard black-knot is not at all likely to appear. It is actual apparent wherever it starts, causing ugly, black, distorted knarls, at aboriginal on the abate limbs. Remove and actuate of immediately, and accumulate a aciculate watch for more. As this ache is supposed to be agitated by the wind, see to it that no absent-minded neighbor is bartering you with the germs.</div><div align="justify">The affection of bake-apple will depend actual abundantly aloft the affliction exercised in acrimonious and storing. Picking, abominably done, while it may not at the time appearance any arresting bad results, will aftereffect in poor befitting and rot. If the tissue beef are broken, as abounding will be by asperous handling,</div><div align="justify">they will be accessible to account rotten spots below the aboriginal favorable conditions, and again the rot will spread. Best of the fruits of the home garden, which do not accept to abide shipping, will be of better</div><div align="justify">quality area they decline absolutely on the tree. Pears, however, are often ripened in the aphotic and afterwards picking, abnormally the winter sorts.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Apples and pears for winter use should be kept, if possible, in a cold, dark place, area there is no bogus heat, and area the air will be moist, but never wet, and area the thermometer will not abatement below</div><div align="justify">thirty-two degrees. Aloft awfully algid nights the temperature may be kept up by application an oil stove or absolution in calefaction from the furnace basement, if that is adjacent. In such a place, abundance the bake-apple loosely, on aerial shelves, not added than six or eight inches deep. If they must be kept in a acrimonious place, backpack in bound boxes or barrels, being careful to put abroad alone absolute fruit, or backpack in beach or leaves. </div><div align="justify">Otherwise they will lose abundant in affection by shriveling, due to abridgement of moisture in the atmosphere. With affliction they may be had in prime quality until backward in the afterward spring.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Do not let yourself be beat from growing your own bake-apple by the necessity for demography acceptable affliction of your trees. Afterwards all, you do not have to bulb them every year, as you do vegetables, and they crop a splendid acknowledgment on the baby advance required. Do not abort to set out at atomic a few this year with the abounding affirmation that your satisfaction is affirmed by the facts in the case.</div><div align="justify"></div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-74007220261389284902010-10-26T21:32:00.000+02:002010-10-26T21:32:36.527+02:00Pruning, Spraying, Harvesting - Three simple things<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMWD2CspT4I/AAAAAAAAAJw/cdvRC1Ggry0/s1600/pepper+vegetable.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="208" nx="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMWD2CspT4I/AAAAAAAAAJw/cdvRC1Ggry0/s320/pepper+vegetable.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">The day has gone, probably forever, when setting out fruit trees and giving them occasional cultivation,</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">"plowing up the orchard" once in several years, would produce fruit. Apples and pears and peaches have</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">occupied no preferred position against the general invasion of the realm of horticulture by insect and fungous</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">enemies. The fruits have, indeed, suffered more than most plants.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">Nevertheless there is this encouraging fact: that, though the fruits may have been severely attacked, the means we now have of fighting fruit-tree enemies, if thoroughly used, as a rule are more certain of accomplishing</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">their purpose, and keeping the enemies completely at bay, than are similar weapons in any other line of horticultural work.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0009JQKN8&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: yellow;">With fruit trees, as with vegetables and flowers, the most important precaution to be taken against insects and disease is to have them in a healthy, thriving, growing condition. It is a part of Nature's law of the survival of the fittest that any backward or weakling plant or tree seems to fall first prey to the ravages of destructive forces.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">For these reasons the double necessity of maintaining at all times good fertilization and thorough cultivation will be seen. In addition to these two factors, careful attention in the matter of pruning is essential in keeping the trees in a healthy, robust condition. As explained in a previous chapter, the trees should be started right by pruning the first season to the open-head or vase shape, which furnishes the maximum of light and air to all parts of the tree. Three or four main branches should form the basis of the head, care being taken not to have them start from directly opposite points on the trunk, thus forming a crotch and leaving the tree liable to splitting from winds or excessive crops. If the tree is once started right, further pruning will give little trouble.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;"> Cut out limbs which cross, or are likely to rub against each other, or that are too close together; and also any that are broken, decayed, or injured in any way. For trees thus given proper attention from the start, a short jackknife will be the only pruning instrument required.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">The case of the old orchard is more difficult. Cutting out too many of the old, large limbs at one time is sure to give a severe shock to the vitality of the tree. A better plan is, first, to cut off close all suckers and all small new-growth limbs, except a few of the most promising, which may be left to be developed into large limbs; and then as these new limbs grow on, gradually to cut out, using a fine-tooth saw and painting the exposed surfaces, the surplus old wood. Apples will need more pruning than the other fruits. Pears and cherries need the least; cutting back the ends of limbs enough to keep the trees in good form, with the removal of an occasional branch for the purpose of letting in light and air, is all the pruning they will require. Of course trees growing on rich ground, and well cultivated, will require more cutting back than those growing under</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">poorer conditions. A further purpose of pruning is to effect indirectly a thinning of the fruit, so that what is grown will be larger and more valuable, and also that the trees may not become exhausted by a few exceptionally heavy crops. On trees that have been neglected and growing slowly the bark sometimes becomes hard and set. In such cases it will prove beneficial to scrape the bark and give a wash applied with an old broom. Whitewash is good for this purpose.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001GSLMMA&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: yellow;">Where extra fine specimens of fruit are desired, thinning is practiced. It helps also to prevent the tree from being overtaxed by excessive crops. But where pruning is thoroughly done this trouble is usually avoided. Peaches and Japan plums are especially benefited by thinning, as they have a great tendency to overbear. The spread of fruit diseases, especially rot in the fruit itself, is also to some extent checked.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">Of fruit-tree enemies there are some large sorts which may do great damage in short order--rabbits and field mice. They may be kept away by mechanical protection, such as wire, or by heaping the earth up to a</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">height of twelve inches about the tree trunk. Insects and scale diseases are not so easily managed; and that brings us to the question of spraying and of sprays.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">For large orchards the spray must, of course, be applied with powerful and expensive machinery. For the small fruit garden a much simpler and very moderate priced apparatus may be acquired. The most practical of these is the brass-tank compressed-air sprayer, with extension rod and mist-spray nozzle. Either of these will be of great assistance not only with the fruit trees, but everywhere in the garden. With care they will last a good many years. Whatever type you get, be sure to get a brass machine; as cheaper ones, made of other metal or plastic , quickly corrode from contact with the strong chemicals used.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">For help in determining the type of infestation contact your County Cooperative Extension Service office. County Cooperative Extension Service offices are usually listed in the telephone directory under county</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: yellow;">or state government; these offices often have a range of resources on garden care and maintenance, including plant selection, pest control, and soil testing.</span></div></span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-28322303073559712322010-10-26T21:18:00.001+02:002010-10-26T21:19:07.758+02:00Planting - | - Setting and Cultivation<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"></span><br />
<div style="text-align: right;"><strong>SETTING</strong></div><div style="text-align: right;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMcpaNrTjGI/AAAAAAAAALs/1fl8D7c9xoc/s1600/fruits+and+vegetables.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="281" nx="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMcpaNrTjGI/AAAAAAAAALs/1fl8D7c9xoc/s400/fruits+and+vegetables.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">Standard apple trees, fully grown, will require thirty to forty-five feet of space between them each way. It takes, however, ten or twelve years after the trees are set before all of this space is needed. A system of "fillers," or inter-planting, has come into use as a result of this, which will give at least one hundred per cent, more fruit for the first ten years. Small-growing standards, standard varieties on dwarf stock, and also peaches, are used for this purpose in commercial orchards. But the principle may be applied with equally good results to the home orchard, or even to the planting of a few scattered trees. The standard dwarfs give good satisfaction as permanent fillers. Where space is very limited, or the fruit must go into the garden, they may be used in place of the standard sorts altogether. The dwarf trees are, as a rule, not so long-lived as the standards, and to do their best, need more care in fertilizing and manuring; but the fruit is just as good; just as much, or more, can be grown on the same area; and the trees come into bearing two to three years sooner. They cost less to begin with and are also easier to care for, in spraying and pruning and in picking the fruit.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">CULTIVATION</span></strong></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1931160384&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">The home orchard, to give the very finest quality of fruit, must be given careful and thorough cultivation. In the case of scattered trees, where it is not practicable to use a horse, this can be given by working a space four to six feet wide about each tree. Every spring the soil should be loosened up, with the cultivator or fork, as the case may be, and kept stirred during the early part of the summer. Unless the soil is rich, a fertilizer, high in potassium and not too high in nitrogen, should be given in the spring. Manure and phosphate rock, as</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">suggested above, is as good as any. In case the foliage is not a deep healthy green, apply a few handfuls of nitrate of soda, working it into the soil just before a rain, around each tree.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">About August 1st the cultivation should be discontinued, and some "cover crop" sown. Buckwheat and crimson clover is a good combination; as the former makes a rapid growth it will form, if rolled down just as</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">the apples are ripening, a soft cushion upon which the windfalls may drop without injury, and will furnish enough protection to the crimson clover to carry it through most winters, even in cold climates.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">In addition to the filler crops, where the ground is to be cultivated by tractor, potatoes may be grown between the rows of trees; or fine hills of melons or squash may be grown around scattered trees, thus,</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">incidentally, saving a great deal of space in the vegetable garden. Or why not grow a few extra fancy strawberries in the well cultivated spots about these trees? Neither they nor the trees want the ground too</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">rich, especially in nitrogen, and conditions suiting the one would be just right for the others.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: cyan;">It may seem to the beginner that fruit-growing, with all these things to keep in mind, is a difficult task. But it is not. I think I am perfectly safe in saying that the rewards from nothing else he can plant and care for are as certain, and surely none are more satisfactory. If you cannot persuade yourself to try fruit on any larger plan, at least order half a dozen dwarf trees (they will cost about twenty cents apiece, and can be had by mail). They will prove about the best paying investment you ever made.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Imageon top right by: <a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=1539">xedos4 / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a></div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-65443434322727427072010-10-26T21:05:00.000+02:002010-10-26T21:05:19.545+02:00Planting - How to do it - Step by step<div align="justify">PLANTING: CULTIVATION: FILLER CROPS </div><div align="justify">In this post we talk about Planting</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">As the full-blooded and the affection of the banal you bulb will accept a great accord to do with the success</div><div align="justify">or abortion of your adventitious in orcharding, alike on a absolute small scale, it is important to get the best trees you can, anywhere, at any price. But do not jump to the conclusion that the best costly trees will be the best. From reliable nurserymen, affairs absolute by mail, you can get acceptable copse at very reasonable prices.</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B00004Z4MV&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>As a accepted affair you will accomplish best if you accept annihilation to do with the abiding "tree agent." He may represent a acceptable firm; you may get your copse on time; he may accept a change as acceptable as the standard sorts; but you are demography three absolute abundant affairs in bold so. But, leaving these questions aside, there is no accurate acumen why you should advice pay his traveling costs and the press bills for his lithographs ("made from absolute photographs" or "painted from nature," of course!) aback you can get the best copse to be had, absolute from the soil in which they are grown, at the everyman prices, by acclimation through the mail.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Or, added acceptable still, if the nursery is not too far away, booty bisected a day off and select them in person. If you appetite to advice the abettor forth present him with the bulk of his commission, but get your copse absolute from some large reliable nursery.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Well developed nursery banal will bend abundant abuse, but it will not be at all improved by it. Do not let castigation bend about in the sun and wind, waiting until you get a adventitious to set it out. As anon as you get it home from the express office, ameliorate it and "heel it in," in moist, but not wet, ground; if beneath a shed, so abundant the better. Dig out a attenuated arroyo and backpack it in as blubbery as it will go, at an bend of blaster degrees to the accustomed position when growing. So stored, it will accumulate a continued time in algid weather, alone be careful that no rats, mice, or rabbits ability it.</div><div align="justify">Do not, however, depend aloft this ability to the admeasurement of absolution all your affairs for burying go until your banal is on hand. Be accessible to set it the day it arrives, if possible.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">PLANTING</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Planting can be done in either bounce or fall. As a accepted rule, arctic of Philadelphia and St. Louis, bounce burying will be best; south of that, fall planting. Area there is apt to be astringent freezing, "heaving," acquired by the alternating freezing and thawing; abrasion to the anew set roots from too severe cold; and, in some western sections, "sun-scald" of the bark, are three injuries which may result. If copse are buried in the abatement in cold sections, a low bank of earth, six to twelve inches high, should be left during the winter about each, and collapsed bottomward in the spring. If set in the spring, area hot, dry acclimate is apt to follow, they should be thoroughly mulched with litter, harbinger or base manure, to preserve moisture--care actuality taken, however, adjoin acreage mice and added rodents.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">The copse may either be set in their abiding positions as anon as bought, or developed in "nursery rows" by the client for one or two years afterwards actuality purchased. In the aloft case, it will be the best</div><div align="justify">policy to get the strongest, straightest two-year banal you can find, even if they amount ten or fifteen cents apiece added than the "mediums." </div><div align="justify">The aloft adjustment is the accepted one, but the closing has so many advantages that I accord it the accent of a abstracted paragraph, and urge every -to-be agriculturalist to accede it carefully.</div><div align="justify">In the aboriginal place, then, you get your copse a little cheaper. This gain, however, is not an important one--there are four others, anniversary of which makes it account while to accord the adjustment a trial. First, the copse being all together, and in a acceptable place, the affairs are a hundred to one that you will accord them added acceptable absorption in the way of spraying, pruning and cultivating--all acutely important in the aboriginal year's growth. Second, with the year acquired for added alertness of the soil area they are to be placed permanently, you can accomplish conditions just appropriate for them to booty authority at already and beforehand as they could not do otherwise. Third, the shock of clearing will be abundant beneath than when they are alien from a distance--they will accept fabricated an added growth of dense, abbreviate roots and they will accept become acclimated. Fourth, you will not accept ashen amplitude and time with any astern atramentous sheep amid the lot, as these should be alone at the additional planting. And afresh there is</div><div align="justify">one added reason, cerebral perhaps, but none the beneath important; you will watch these little trees, which are abundantly the aftereffect of your own labor and care, aback set in their abiding positions, abundant added carefully than you would those absolute from the nursery. I know, both from experience and observation, how abounding thrifty adolescent copse in the home orchard are done to an abortive afterlife by children, absent-minded workmen, and other animals.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B003MC52PQ&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>So if you can put a twelve-month barrier on your impatience, get one-year trees and set them out in a beeline row appropriate in your vegetable garden where they will booty up absolute little room. Accumulate them able aloof as thoroughly as the blow of your growing things. Melons, or beans, or almost any low-growing vegetable can be developed abutting beside them. Let us accept that your copse are at hand, either absolute from the nursery or growing in the garden. You accept selected, if possible, a moist, abrasive adobe on a abruptness or slight elevation, area it is naturally and altogether drained. Acceptable clay arising is imperative.</div><div align="justify">Coarse alluvium in the basal of the burying aperture will advice out temporarily. If the acreage is in clover sod, it will accept the ideal preparation, abnormally if you can abound a application of potatoes or blah on</div><div align="justify">it one year, while your copse are accepting added growth. In such land the holes will not accept to be prepared. If, however, you are not fortunate abundant to be able to allot such a amplitude to bake-apple trees, and in adjustment to accept them at all charge abode them forth your bank or scattered through the grounds, you can still accord them an excellent start by adorning the clay in spots beforehand, as appropriate aloft in growing lima beans. In the accident of award alike this aftermost way inapplicable to your land, the afterward adjustment will accomplish success certain: Dig out holes three to six anxiety in bore (if the clay is</div><div align="justify">very hard, the beyond dimension), and twelve to eighteen inches deep.</div><div align="justify">Mix thoroughly with the biconcave clay a acceptable caster barrow abounding of the oldest, finest admixture you can get, accumulated with about division or one-fifth its weight of South Carolina bedrock (or acerbic phosphate, if you cannot get the rock). It is a acceptable plan to admixture the admixture and bedrock in advance, or use the bedrock as an absorptive in the stable. Fill in the aperture again, leaving allowance in the centermost to set the timberline after angle or cramping any roots. Area any of these are afflicted or bruised, cut them off clean at the afflicted atom with a aciculate knife. Shorten any that are long and straggling about one-third to one-half their length. Properly grown stock should not be in any such condition. Remember that a able-bodied buried timberline will accord added bake-apple in the aboriginal ten years than three copse abominably put in. Get the timberline so that it will be one to three inches added in the clay than aback growing in the nursery. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Work the clay in durably about the roots with the fingers or a edgeless wooden "tamper"; do not be abashed to use your feet. Aback the roots are well covered, close the timberline in by putting all your weight aloft the soil around it. See that it is buried straight, and if the "whip," or small trunk, is not beeline pale it, and tie it with rye straw, raffia or strips of old cloth-never cord or wire. If the clay is absolute dry, water the basis abundantly while burying until the clay is about bisected abounding in, never on the surface, as that is acceptable to account a band to anatomy and keep out the air so all-important to advantageous growth.</div><div align="justify">Prune aback the "leader" of the tree-the top aloft the aboriginal lateral branches, about one-half. Peach copse should be cut aback added severely. Further advice in attention to pruning, and the altered needs of</div><div align="justify">the assorted fruits in attention to this important matter, will be accustomed in the abutting chapter.</div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-74103839582886666052010-10-26T20:48:00.000+02:002010-10-26T20:48:03.580+02:00Explanation about Apples, Pears, Peaches, Plums and Cherries<span style="font-family: ArialMT;"> <div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>APPLES</strong></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMciPB_IOMI/AAAAAAAAALo/K_lJI2CPwz8/s1600/orange.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" nx="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMciPB_IOMI/AAAAAAAAALo/K_lJI2CPwz8/s320/orange.jpg" width="283" /></a></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Without any question, the apple is far and away the most valuable fruit, both because of its greater scope of usefulness and its longer season--the last of the winter's Russets are still juicy and firm when the first Early Harvests and Red Astrachans are tempting the "young idea" to experiment with colic. Plant but a small proportion of early varieties, for the late ones are better. Out of a dozen trees, I would put in one early, three fall, and the rest winter sorts.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Among the summer apples are several deserving special mention: Yellow Transparent is the earliest. It is an old favorite and one of the most easily grown of all apples. Its color is indicated by the name, and it is a fair eating-apple and a very good cooker. Red Astrachan, another first early, is not quite so good for cooking, but is a delicious eating-apple of good size. An apple of more recent introduction and</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">extremely hardy (hailing first from Russia), and already replacing the above sorts, is Livland (Livland Raspberry). The tree is of good form, very vigorous and healthy. The fruit is ready almost as soon as Yellow</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Transparent, and is of much better quality for eating. In appearance it is exceptionally handsome, being of good size, regular form and having those beautiful red shades found almost exclusively in the later</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">apples. The flesh is quality is fully up to its appearance. The white, crisp-breaking flesh, most aromatic, deliciously sub-acid, makes it ideal for eating. A neighbor of mine sold $406 worth of fruit from</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">twenty trees to one dealer. </span></div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B002C7489S&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: lime;">For such a splendid apple McIntosh is remarkably hardy and vigorous, succeeding over a very wide territory, and climate severe enough to kill many of the other newer varieties.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The Fameuse (widely known as the Snow) is an excellent variety for northern sections. It resembles the McIntosh, which some claim to be derived from it. Fall Pippin, Pound Sweet and Twenty Ounce, are other popular late autumns.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">In the winter section, Baldwin, which is too well known to need describing, is the leading commercial variety in many apple districts, and it is a good variety for home growing on account of its hardiness and good cooking and keeping qualities; but for the home orchard, it is far surpassed in quality by several others. In northern sections, down to the corn line, Northern Spy is a great favorite. It is a large, roundish apple, with thin, tender, glossy skin, light to deep carmine over light yellow, and an excellent keeper. In sections to which it is adapted it is a particularly vigorous, compact, upright grower.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Jonathan is another splendid sort, with a wider range of conditions favorable for growth. It is, however, not a strong-growing tree and is somewhat uncertain in maturing its fruit, which is a bright, clear red of distinctive flavor. It likes a soil with more clay than do most apples. In the Middle West and Middle South, Grimes (Golden) has made a great local reputation in many sections, although in others it has not done well at all.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The Spitzenberg (Esopus) is very near the top of the list of all late eating-apples, being at its prime about December. It is another handsome yellow-covered red apple, with flesh slightly yellowish, but very good to the taste. The tree, unfortunately, is not a robust grower, being especially weak in its earlier stages, but with good cultivation it will not fail to reward the grower for any extra care it may have required.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">These, and the other notable varieties, for which there is not room here to describe, make up the following list, from which the planter should select according to locality:</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Earliest or Summer:--Early Harvest, Yellow Transparent, Red</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Astrachan, Benoni (new), Chenango, Sweet Bough, Williams' Favorite,</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Early Strawberry, Livland Raspberry.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Early Autumn:--Alexander, Duchess, Porter, Gravenstein, McIntosh Red.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Late Autumn:--Jefferies, Fameuse (Snow), Maiden's Blush, Wealthy, Fall Pippin, Pound Sweet, Twenty Ounce, Cox Orange, Hubbardston.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Winter:--Baldwin, Rhode Island Greening, Northwestern Greening, Jonathan, Northern Spy, Yellow, Swaar, Delicious, Wagener, King, Esopus, Spitzenberg, Yellow Bellflower, Winter Banana, Seek-no-further, Talman Sweet, Roxbury Russett, King David, Stayman's Winesap, Wolf River.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>PEARS </strong></span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B002LPALFQ&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: lime;">Pears are more particular than apples in the matter of being adapted to </span><span style="color: lime;">sections and soils. Submit your list to your local Cooperative Extension Service </span><span style="color: lime;">before ordering trees. Many of the standard sorts may be had where a </span><span style="color: lime;">low-growing, spreading tree is desired (for instance, quince-stock </span><span style="color: lime;">pears might be used to change places with the plums). Varieties </span><span style="color: lime;">suitable for this method are listed below. They are given approximately </span><span style="color: lime;">in the order of the ripening:</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Wilder:</strong> Early August, medium in size, light yellow, excellent quality. </span><span style="color: lime;">oes not rot at the core, as so many early pears are liable to do.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Margaret: Oblong, greenish, yellow to dull red.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Clapp Favorite:</strong> Very large, yellow pear. A great bearer and good </span><span style="color: lime;">keeper--where the children cannot get at it.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Howell:</strong> A little later than the foregoing; large, bright yellow, </span><span style="color: lime;">strong-growing tree and big bearer.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Duchesse d'Angouleme: Large greenish yellow, sometimes reaching huge </span><span style="color: lime;">size; will average better than three-quarters of a pound. The quality, </span><span style="color: lime;">despite its size, is splendid.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Seckel: Small in size, but renowned for exquisite flavor--being </span><span style="color: lime;">probably the most universally admired of all.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Beurre Superfine:</strong> October, medium size, excellent quality. </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Bartlett</strong>: The best known of all pears, and a universal favorite. </span><span style="color: lime;">Succeeds in nearly all sections.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Anjou:</strong> One of the best keepers, and very productive. One of the best in </span><span style="color: lime;">flavor, rich and vinous. </span><span style="color: lime;">For trees of the standard type the following are worthy of note: </span><span style="color: lime;">Congress (Souvenir du C.): A very large summer sort. Handsome. </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Belle Lucrative:</strong> September to October. </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Winter Nelis:</strong> Medium size, but of excellent quality and the longest </span><span style="color: lime;">keeper.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Kieffer:</strong> Very popular for its productiveness, strength of growth and </span><span style="color: lime;">exceptional quality of fruit for canning and preserving. Large fruit, </span><span style="color: lime;">if kept thinned. Should have a place in every home garden.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>Josephine de Malines:</strong> Not a great yielder but </span><span style="color: lime;">of the very highest quality, being of the finest texture </span><span style="color: lime;">and tempting aroma.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>PEACHES</strong></span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Success with peaches also will depend largely upon getting varieties </span><span style="color: lime;">adapted to climate. The white-fleshed type is the hardiest and best for </span><span style="color: lime;">eating; and the free-stones are for most purposes, especially in the </span><span style="color: lime;">home garden, more desirable than the "clings." </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Greensboro is the best early variety. Crawford is a universal favorite </span><span style="color: lime;">and goes well over a wide range of soil and climate. Champion is one of </span><span style="color: lime;">the best quality peaches and exceptionally hardy. Elberta, Ray, and </span><span style="color: lime;">Hague are other excellent sorts. Mayflower is the earliest sort yet </span><span style="color: lime;">introduced.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>PLUMS</strong></span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The available plums are of three classes--the natives, Europeans and </span><span style="color: lime;">Japans; the natives are the longest-lived, hardier in tree and blossom, </span><span style="color: lime;">and heavier bearers.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">The best early is Milton; brilliant red, yellow and juicy flesh. </span><span style="color: lime;">Wildgoose and Whitaker are good seconds. Mrs. Cleveland is a later and </span><span style="color: lime;">larger sort, of finer quality. </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Three late-ripening plums of the finest </span><span style="color: lime;">quality, but not such prolific yielders, are Wayland, Benson and Reed,</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">and where there is room for only a few trees, these will be best. They </span><span style="color: lime;">will need one tree of Newman or Prairie Flower with them to assure </span><span style="color: lime;">setting of the fruit. Of the Europeans, use Reine Claude (the best),</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Bradshaw or Shropshire. Damson is also good. The Japanese varieties </span><span style="color: lime;">should go on high ground and be thinned, especially during their first </span><span style="color: lime;">years. My first experience with Japanese plums convinced me that I had</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">solved the plum problem; they bore loads of fruit, and were free from </span><span style="color: lime;">disease. That was five years ago. Last spring the last one was cut and </span><span style="color: lime;">burned. Had they been planted at the top of a small hill, instead of at </span><span style="color: lime;">the bottom, as they were, and restricted in their bearing, I know from </span><span style="color: lime;">later experience that they would still be producing fruit. The most </span><span style="color: lime;">satisfactory varieties of the Japanese type are Abundance and Red June. </span><span style="color: lime;">Burbank is also highly recommended,</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"><strong>CHERRIES</strong></span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Cherries have one advantage over the other fruits--they give quicker </span><span style="color: lime;">returns. But, as far as my experience goes, they are not as long-lived. </span><span style="color: lime;">The sour type is hardier, at least north of New Jersey, than the sweet.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">It will probably pay to try a few of the new and highly recommended </span><span style="color: lime;">varieties. Of the established sorts Early Richmond is a good early, to </span><span style="color: lime;">be followed by Montmorency and English Morello. Windsor is a good sweet</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">cherry, as are also Black Tartarian, Sox, Wood and Yellow Spanish. </span><span style="color: lime;">All the varieties mentioned above are proved sorts. But the lists are </span><span style="color: lime;">being added to constantly, and where there is a novelty strongly </span><span style="color: lime;">recommended by a reliable nurseryman it will often pay to try </span><span style="color: lime;">it out--on a very small scale at first.</span></div></span>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-25243551383503611182010-10-26T18:59:00.000+02:002010-10-26T18:59:17.515+02:00Fruits and Berries a little descriptionFruits and Berries <div align="justify">THE VARIETIES OF POME AND STONE FRUITS</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000FFLHSY&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Many a home agriculturalist who has succeeded able-bodied with vegetables is, for some acumen or other, still fearsome about aggravating his duke at growing his own fruit. This is all a mistake; the antecedent bulk is very slight and the aforementioned bulk of care that is accepted by vegetables, if given to fruit, will aftermath apples, peaches, pears and berries far superior to any that can be bought, especially in flavor.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">I apperceive a doctor in Fresh York, a specialist, who has able prominence in his profession, and who makes a ample income; he tells me that there is annihilation in the burghal that hurts him so abundant as to accept to pay whenever he wants an apple. His adolescence home was on a Pennsylvania farm, where apples were as chargeless as water, and he cannot get over the abstraction of their actuality one of Nature's accommodating gifts, any added than he can overcome his ache for that crisp, juicy, acidity of a acceptable apple, which is not quite equaled by the aftertaste of any added fruit.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">And yet it is not the extenuative in expense, although that is considerable, that makes the arch altercation for growing one's own fruit. There are three added reasons, anniversary of added importance. Aboriginal is quality. The commercial agriculturalist cannot acquiesce to abound the actual finest fruit. Abounding of the best varieties are not ample abundant yielders to be accessible for his use, and he cannot, on a ample scale, so clip and affliction for his trees that the abandoned fruits accept the greatest accessible amount of sunshine and abrasion out--the claimed affliction that is appropriate for the actual best quality. Second, there is the adorableness and the amount that well kept bake-apple copse add to a place, no amount how baby it is. An</div><div align="justify">apple timberline in abounding blossom is one of the best admirable pictures that Nature anytime paints; and if, through any alternation of circumstances, it ever becomes appropriate to advertise or hire the home, its agreeableness is greatly enhanced by the few copse all-important to accouter the adorableness of showering blossoms in spring, acceptable adumbration in summertime and an abundance of adorable fruits through autumn and winter. </div><div align="justify">Afresh there is the fun of doing it--of burying and caring for a few adolescent trees, which will reward your labors, in a accumulative way, for abounding years to come. But abundant of reasons. If the alarm of the adobe is in your veins, if your fingers (and your brain) in the springtime crawling to accept a allotment in earth's ever-wonderful renascence, if your aperture allotment at the anticipation of the white, firm, aperitive beef of a ripened-on-the-tree red apple-- then you charge accept a home orchard after delay.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">And it is not a difficult task. Apples, pears and the bean fruits, fortunately, are not actual accurate about their soils. They take kindly to annihilation amid a albino adobe so apart as to be almost shifting, and abundant clay. Even these soils can be fabricated available, but of advance not after added work. And you charge little allowance to abound all the bake-apple your ancestors can possibly eat.</div><div align="justify">Time was, back to allege of an angel timberline brought to apperception one of those old, moss-barked giants that served as a carrying afford and a summer dining-room, busy with scythes and braiding swings, acute the services of a forty-foot ladder and a long-handled picker to accumulate the fruit. That day is gone. In its account accept appear the low-headed standard and the dwarf forms. </div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000ORY230&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>The fresh types came as fresh institutions usually do, under protest. The astute said they would never be practical--the trees would not get ample abundant and tractors could not be apprenticed beneath them.</div><div align="justify">But the facts remained that the low copse are added calmly and thoroughly cared for; that they do not booty up so abundant room; that they are beneath apparent to aerial winds, and such bake-apple as does abatement is not injured; that the low limbs apartment the roots and conserve moisture; and, aloft all, that acrimonious can be able abundant added calmly and with beneath abrasion to fine, able-bodied developed fruit. The low-headed timberline has come to stay.</div><div align="justify">If your amplitude will allow, the low-headed standards will accord you better satisfaction than the dwarfs. They are longer-lived, they are healthier, and they do not crave about so abundant accelerated culture. On</div><div align="justify">the added hand, the dwarfs may be acclimated area there is little or no room for the standards. If there is no added amplitude available, they may be put in the vegetable or annual garden, and incidentally they are then</div><div align="justify">sure of accepting some of that appropriate affliction which they charge in the way of fertilization and cultivation.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">As I accept said, any boilerplate adobe will abound acceptable fruit. A abrasive loam, with a alluvium subsoil, is the ideal. Do not anticipate from this, however, that all you accept to do is shop for a few copse from a nursery agent, stick them in the arena and from your apathy acquire the rewards that follow abandoned able industry. The adobe is but the raw material which assignment and affliction abandoned can transform, through the average of the growing tree, into the acclimatized aftereffect of a basement able-bodied stored each autumn with fruit. Fruit copse accept one big advantage over vegetables--the arena can be prepared for them while they are growing. If the adobe will abound a crop of clover it is already in acceptable appearance to accouter the copse with aliment at once. If not, admixture or fertilizers may be applied, and clover or other green crops angry beneath during the aboriginal two or three years of the</div><div align="justify">trees' growth, as will be declared later.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">The aboriginal affair to consider, back you accept absitively to plant, is the location you will accord your trees. Plan to accept pears, plums, cherries and peaches, as able-bodied as apples. For any of these the soil, of whatever nature, charge be able-bodied drained. If not naturally, afresh asphalt or other artificial arising charge be provided. For abandoned a few copse it would probably acknowledgment the purpose to dig out ample holes and ample in a foot or eighteen inches at the basal with baby stone, covered with gravel or buried coal-cinders. My own acreage has a abrasive alluvium and I have not had to drain. Afresh with the apples, and abnormally with the peaches, a too-sheltered abruptness to the south is acceptable to alpha the</div><div align="justify">flower buds anon in spring, abandoned to aftereffect in absolute crop loss from backward frosts. The diagram on the abutting folio suggests an arrangement which may be acclimatized to abandoned needs. One may see from it that the apples are placed to the north, area they will to some admeasurement shelter</div><div align="justify">the blow of the grounds; the peaches area they will not be coddled; the pears, which may be had aloft quince stock, area they will not shade the vegetable garden; the cherries, which are the most ornamental, area they may accommodate a adorning effect.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0393060314&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>And now, accepting absitively that we can--and will--grow acceptable fruit, and having in apperception suggestions that will accredit us to go out to-morrow morning and, with an armful of stakes, mark out the locations, the next consideration should be the all-important catechism of what varieties are best auspiciously developed on the baby place.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">The afterward selections are fabricated with the home bake-apple garden, not the commercial orchard, in mind. While they are all "tried and true" sorts, succeeding about in the northeast, Fresh England and western fruit sections, bethink that fruits, as a rule, admitting not so accurate as vegetables about soil, assume abundant added so about locality. I would suggest, therefore, appointment your list, afore buying, to your State local Cooperative Extension Service. You are burdened for its support; get some absolute aftereffect from it. There they will be animated to admonish you, and are in the best position to advice you get started properly. Aloft all, do not buy from the traveling nursery agent, with his anchor abounding of wonderful</div><div align="justify">lithographs of fresh and exceptional novelties. </div><div align="justify">Get the catalogs of several reliable nurseries, booty accepted varieties about which you know, and shop for direct. Several years ago I had the befalling to go carefully over one of the better bake-apple nurseries in the country. Every care and anticipation was taken to abound fine, healthy, adolescent trees. The president told me that they awash bags every year to smaller concerns, to be resold afresh through acreage and bounded agents. Yet they do an astronomic retail business themselves, and of advance their own customers get the best trees.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">The afterward are listed, as about as I can judge, in the adjustment of their popularity, but as abounding of the best are not valuable commercially, they are little known. Whenever you acquisition a particularly</div><div align="justify">good angel or pear, try to trace it, and add it to your list.</div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-36260388579693724972010-10-26T18:29:00.000+02:002010-10-26T18:29:14.547+02:00Harvesting and Storing Vegetables. The way to do it<div align="justify">HARVESTING AND STORING</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMcA1I8_CrI/AAAAAAAAALk/bCiY6M_ALxs/s1600/Beetroot+Harvest.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nx="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMcA1I8_CrI/AAAAAAAAALk/bCiY6M_ALxs/s400/Beetroot+Harvest.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><div align="justify">A acceptable frost-proof, air-conditioned basement is the best and best acceptable place in which to abundance the surplus artefact of the home garden. But, lacking this, a allowance abstracted off in the basement and able-bodied ventilated, or a small abandoned room, finer on the arctic ancillary of the house, that can be kept beneath forty degrees best of the time, will serve excellently.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Or, some of the best beefy vegetables, such as banknote and the root crops, may be stored in a able pit fabricated in the garden itself. As it is capital that such a pit be appropriately constructed, I shall describe one with acceptable detail to accredit the home agriculturalist readily to assemble it. Select a atom area baptize will not stand. Put the vegetables in a triangular-shaped pile, the abject three or four feet wide, and as continued as required. Separate the altered vegetables in this accumulation by stakes about two anxiety college than the top of the pile, and label them. Afresh awning with a band of apple-pie harbinger or hay, and over this four inches of soil, dug up three anxiety aback from the edges of the pile. This assignment charge be done backward in the fall, as about as one can judge aloof afore abiding freezing begins, and finer on a cold</div><div align="justify">morning back the arena is aloof alpha to freeze; the article being to benumb the partly apple accoutrement at once, so that it will not be washed or absolute off. </div><div align="justify">The vegetables charge be altogether dry back stored; dig them a anniversary or so antecedent and accumulate them in an aerial shed. As soon as this aboriginal band of apple is partly frozen, but afore it freezes through, put on accession blubbery band of harbinger or hay and awning with twelve inches of earth, befitting the accumulation as abrupt as possible; a slightly clayey soil, that may be baffled bottomward durably into appearance with a spade, actuality best. The accumulation should be fabricated area it will be sheltered from the sun as abounding as possible, such as on the arctic ancillary of a building. The disadvantage of the plan is, of course, that the vegetables cannot be got at until the accumulation is opened up, in early spring, or backward if desired. Its two advantages are that the vegetables stored will be kept in added acceptable action than in any basement, and that basement or abode allowance will be saved.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1178382648&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>For autumn baby quantities of the roots, such as carrots or beets, they are usually arranged in boxes or barrels and covered in with clean sand. Area an admiral allowance has to be used, swamp or sphagnum moss may alter the sand. It makes an ideal packing medium, as it is much lighter and cleaner than the sand. In abounding localities it may be had for the gathering; in others one may get it from a florist. in autumn vegetables of any kind, and by whatever method, see to it that:</div><div align="justify">(1) They are consistently clean, dry and sound. The aboriginal atom or bruise is a crisis center, which may advance abolition to the lot.</div><div align="justify">(2) That the temperature, whatever required--in best cases 33-38 degrees actuality best--is kept as alike as possible.</div><div align="justify">(3) That the accumulator abode is kept clean, dry (by blast when needed) and candied (by use of blanch and lime).</div><div align="justify">(4) That no rats or added rodents are arena calamity with your treasures while you never doubtable it.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">So abounding of the vegetables can be kept, for either allotment or all of the winter, that I shall booty them up in order, with abrupt directions. Many, such as blooming beans, rhubarb, tomatoes, etc., which cannot be</div><div align="justify">kept in the accustomed ways, may be calmly and cheaply canned, and where one has a acceptable basement, it will absolutely pay to get a canning outfit and accomplish use of this method.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Beans:</strong></div><div align="justify">Almost all the cord and breeze beans, back broiled in the pods, are accomplished for cooking. And any pods which accept not been gathered in the blooming accompaniment should be picked, as anon as dry (as</div><div align="justify">wet acclimate is acceptable to cast or sprout them), and stored in a dry place, or advance on a bank in the sun. They will keep, either shelled or in the dry pods, for winter.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Beets:</strong></div><div align="justify">In October, afore the aboriginal adamantine frosts, booty up and store in a air-conditioned basement, in clean, altogether dry sand, or in pits outside (see Cabbage); do not cut off the continued tap roots, nor the tops close abounding to account any "bleeding."</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001SGYDTE&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Brussels sprouts:</strong></div><div align="justify">These are bigger by freezing, and may be used from the accessible garden until December. If capital later, abundance them with cabbage, or adhere up the stalks in bunches in a algid basement.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cabbage:</strong></div><div align="justify">If alone a few active are to be stored, a air-conditioned basement will do. Alike if area they will be hardly frozen, they will not be injured, so continued as they do not benumb and thaw repeatedly. They should not be taken in until there is crisis of astringent freezing, as they will keep better, and a little frost improves the flavor. For autumn small quantities outdoors, dig a trench, a basal or so deep, in a able-bodied drained spot, advanced abounding to accept two active ancillary by side. Pull up the cabbages, afterwards removing either stems or alien leaves, and abundance side by side, arch down, in the basal of the trench. Now awning over lightly with straw, meadow hay, or any debris which will accumulate the clay from freezing to the cabbages, and afresh awning over the accomplished with earth, to the abyss of several inches, but acceptance the top of the roots to remain exposed, which will facilitate digging them up as required. Do not coffin the banknote until as backward as accessible afore astringent freezing, as a spell of balmy acclimate would rot it.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Carrots:</strong></div><div align="justify">Treat in the aforementioned way as beets. They will not be hurt by a slight freezing of the tops, afore actuality dug, but affliction charge be taken not to let the roots become affected by frost.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Celery:</strong></div><div align="justify">That which is to be acclimated aboriginal is abashed outside, by banking, as declared in Chapter XI, and as celery will angle a little freezing, will be acclimated anon from the garden. For the allocation to be kept over winter, accommodate boxes about a basal wide, and about as deep as the celery is high. Awning the cheers of these boxes with two or three inches of sand, and wet thoroughly. Aloft this angle the celery upright, and arranged abutting together. In demography up the celery for storing in this way, the roots and whatever apple adheres to them are kept on, not cut, as it is bought in the stores. The boxes are afresh stored in a basement, or added dark, dry, algid abode area the temperature will not go added than bristles degrees beneath freezing. The celery will be accessible for use afterwards Christmas. If a continued assumption is wanted, abundance from the open two or three altered times, say at the end of October, first part of November and the closing allotment of November.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cucumbers, Melons, Egg-plant:</strong></div><div align="justify">While there is no way of storing these for any abounding breadth of time afterwards recourse to bogus cold,</div><div align="justify">they may be had for some time by autumn aloof afore the aboriginal frosts in a cool, aphotic basement, affliction actuality taken in administration the fruits to give them no bruises.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0312642687&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Onions:</strong></div><div align="justify">If the onions got a acceptable aboriginal alpha in the spring, the tops will activate to die bottomward by the average of August. As anon as the tops accept angry chicken and addle they should be pulled, on the first bright dry day, and laid in windrows (three or four rows in one), but not aggregate up. They should be angry over frequently, by duke or with a board rake, and removed to a afford or barn attic as anon as dry, where the acme can be cut off. Accumulate them advance out as abounding as possible, and accord them accessible blast until crisis of frost. Then store in a dry abode and accumulate as air-conditioned as accessible afterwards freezing. A few barrels, with holes agape in the sides, will do able-bodied for a small</div><div align="justify">quantity.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Parsley:</strong></div><div align="justify">Take up a few plants and accumulate in a flower-pot or small box, in the kitchen window.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Parsnips:</strong></div><div align="justify">These will breach in the arena afterwards abrasion all winter, but allotment of the crop may be taken up backward in the abatement and stored with beets, carrots and turnips, to use while the arena is frozen.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Potatoes:</strong></div><div align="justify">When the accouterment accept died bottomward and the bark of the new potatoes has become somewhat hardened, they can be dug and stored in a cool, dry basement at once. Be abiding to accord affluence of blast until danger of frost. Accumulate from the light, as this has the aftereffect of making the potatoes bitter. If there is any assurance of rot amid the tubers, do not dig them up until it has stopped.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Squash and Pumpkins:</strong></div><div align="justify">The able altitude for autumn for winter will be adumbrated by the dehydration and shrinking of the stem.</div><div align="justify">Cut them from the vines, actuality accurate never to breach off the stem, about-face over, rub off the clay and leave the beneath ancillary apparent to a few days' sunlight. Afresh backpack in a bounce wagon, or spring wheelbarrow, covered with old accoutrements or hay to accumulate from any bruises.</div><div align="justify">Store in the driest allotment of the basement, and if accessible area the temperature will not go beneath forty degrees. Leave them on the accouterment in the acreage as backward as possible, while artifice frosts.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Tomatoes:</strong></div><div align="justify">Just afore the aboriginal frosts are acceptable to begin, pick all of the best of the unripened fruits. Abode allotment of these on clean harbinger in a coldframe, giving protection, area they will gradually decline up. Abode others, that are absolutely developed but not ripe, in harbinger in the basement. In this way beginning tomatoes may frequently be had as backward as Christmas.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Turnip:</strong></div><div align="justify">These roots, if desired, can be stored as are beets or carrots. It is adamantine to absorb our absorption in article back best of its usefulness has gone by. It is for that reason, I suppose, that one sees so abounding forsaken and weed-grown area every autumn, area in the spring aggregate was accurate and clean. But there are two actual excellent reasons why the vegetable garden should not be so abandoned--to say nothing of appearances! The aboriginal is that abounding vegetables abide to grow until the abounding frosts come; and the second, that the careless gardener who appropriately forsakes his column is sowing no end of agitation for himself for the advancing year. For weeds larboard to themselves, alike backward in the fall, abound in the air-conditioned clammy acclimate with amazing rapidity, and, about afore one realizes it, transform the able-bodied kept garden into a ragged wilderness, area the intruders accept taken such a strong foothold that they cannot be pulled up afterwards disturbing aggregate else with them. So we let them go--and, larboard to themselves, they accomplish their purpose in life, and leave aloft the arena an analogously distributed</div><div align="justify">supply of beefy accomplished seeds, which abutting bounce will account the perennial exclamation, "Mercy, John, area did all these weeds appear from?" And John replies, "I don't know; we kept the garden apple-pie aftermost summer. I think there charge be edger seeds in the fertilizer."</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Do not let up on your action with weeds, for every acceptable vegetable that is larboard over can be put to some use. Here and there in the garden will be a band that has gone by, and as it is now too backward to plant, we just let it go. Yet now is the time we should be advancing all such spots for arresting abutting summer's drought! You may bethink how strongly was emphasized the call for accepting abounding humus</div><div align="justify">(decayed vegetable matter) in the soil--how it acts like a blot to retain damp and accumulate things growing through the long, dry spells which we assume to be abiding of accepting every summer. So booty anticipation for next year. Buy a bassinet of rye, and as fast as a atom in your garden can be bankrupt up, harrow, dig or rake it over, and sow the rye on broadcast. Aloof abounding apart apparent clay to awning it and let it</div><div align="justify">sprout, is all it asks. If the acclimate is dry, and you can get a small roller, cycle it in to ensure added acceptable germination. It will appear up quickly; it will accumulate out the weeds which contrarily would be taking possession of the ground; it will abound until the arena is arctic solid and activate afresh with the aboriginal balmy bounce day; it will accumulate your garden from abrasion out in abounding rains, and abduction and save from being washed abroad and ashen a acceptable accord of left-over bulb food; it will</div><div align="justify">serve as aloof so abounding absolute admixture for your garden; it will advance the mechanical action of the soil, and it will add the important element of admixture to it.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">In accession to these things, you will accept an adorable and luxuriant garden spot, instead of an cruddy bald one. And in allowance off these patches for rye, beware of waste. If you accept hens, or by chance a pig, they will appetite old active of lettuce, old pea-vines, still green afterwards the aftermost picking, and the stumps and alien leaves of cabbage. Alike if you accept not this agency of utilizing your garden's byproducts,</div><div align="justify">do not let them go to waste. Put aggregate into a square pile--old sods, weeds, vegetable tops, refuse, dirt, leaves, lawn sweepings--anything that will rot. Tread this accumulation bottomward thoroughly; give it a assimilation already in a while if aural ability of the hose, and two or three turnings with a fork. Abutting bounce back you are attractive for every accessible batter of admixture with which to adorn your garden, this</div><div align="justify">compost abundance will angle you in acceptable stead.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Dispose of your old pea-brush, amazon poles and aggregate that is not account befitting over for abutting year. Do not leave these things lying around to anchorage and assure eggs and insects and edger seeds. If any bean-poles, stakes, trellises or supports assume in acceptable abounding condition to serve accession year, put them beneath awning now; and see that all your tools are best up and put in one place, area you can acquisition them and overhaul them abutting February. As anon as your surplus pole beans have dried in their pods, booty up poles and all and abundance in a dry place. The beans may be taken off afterwards at your leisure.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Be accurate to cut bottomward and actuate of (or put in the admixture heap) all weeds about your fences, and the edges of your garden, afore they ripen seed.</div><div align="justify">If the suggestions accustomed are followed, the vegetable garden may be stretched far into the winter. But do not blow at that. Activate to plan now for your abutting year's garden. Put a accumulation of clay area it</div><div align="justify">will not be frozen, or broiled out, back you appetite to use it abutting February for your aboriginal seeds. If you accept no hotbed, fix the frames and get the sashes for one now, so it will be already on duke back the arena is frozen solid and covered with snow abutting spring. If you accept fabricated garden mistakes this year, be planning now to adjust them next--without progress there is no fun in the game. Let abutting bounce acquisition you with your affairs all made, your abstracts all on duke and a anchored resolution to accept the best garden you accept anytime had.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Top right picture thanks to <a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=404">Image">Simon Howden / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a></div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-44192440257278580862010-10-26T17:46:00.000+02:002010-10-26T17:46:35.772+02:00Plant enemies and Precautions - Descriptions and solucions<div style="text-align: right;"><strong><span style="font-size: large;">Plant Enemies</span></strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMb2ML382SI/AAAAAAAAALE/1mUfabE4Iu8/s1600/green+leaves.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nx="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMb2ML382SI/AAAAAAAAALE/1mUfabE4Iu8/s320/green+leaves.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="justify"><strong>Aphids:</strong></div><div align="justify">The small, bendable blooming plant-lice. They hardly attack healthy growing plants in the field, but are adamantine to accumulate off under glass.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Asparagus-beetle:</strong></div><div align="justify">This annoyance will accord little agitation on cleanly cultivated patches.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Black-rot</strong>:</div><div align="justify">This affects the banknote group, preventing heading, by falling of the leaves. In clean, thoroughly limed soil, with proper rotations, it is not acceptable to appear.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B002BDV8HS&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Borers:</strong></div><div align="justify">This auger is a flattish, white grub, which penetrates the capital axis of annihilate or added accouterment abreast the arena and seems to sap the backbone of the plant, alike back the accouterment accept accomplished a length of ten anxiety or more. His attendance is aboriginal fabricated axiomatic by the wilting</div><div align="justify">of the leaves during the noonday heat.</div><div align="justify">Last division about bisected the accouterment in one of my pieces were attacked after abounding of the squashes were ample abundant to eat. With a little practice I was able to locate the borer's exact position, apparent by a spot in the axis area the beef was soft, and of a hardly different color. With a thin, aciculate knife-blade the accouterment were anxiously slit lengthwise on this spot, the auger extracted and dead and the vines in about every instance agilely recovered. Another adjustment is to root the accouterment by heaping clammy apple over several of the blade joints, when the accouterment accept accomplished acceptable length.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cabbage-caterpillar:</strong></div><div align="justify">This baby blooming worm, which hatches upon the leaves and in the basic active of banknote and added vegetables of the banknote group, comes from the eggs laid by the accepted white or yellow butterfly of aboriginal spring. Pick off all that are visible, The caterpillar or bastard of tomatoes is a ample blooming avid one. Hand-picking is the alone remedy.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Club-root:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is a abject ache advancing the cabbage group, abnormally in arena area these crops accomplish anniversary other. Lime both clay and seed-bed--at atomic the abatement afore planting, unless using a appropriate agronomical lime. The crop infested is sometimes carried through by giving a appropriate bathrobe of quick-acting able fertilizer, and hilled aerial with clammy earth, appropriately giving a appropriate dispatch and encouraging the accumulation of fresh roots. While this does not in any way cure the disease, it helps the crop to bear its attack. Back planting again be abiding to use crop circling and to set plants not developed in infested soil.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cucumber-beetle:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is the small, black-and-yellow-striped beetle which attacks cucumbers and added accouterment and, as it multiplies rapidly and does a abundant accord of accident afore the after-effects show, they must be abounding to anon aloft appearance. The backcountry should be protected with screens until they army the frames, which should be put in abode afore the beetles put in an appearance.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B003MSZBSI&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Cucumber-wilt:</strong></div><div align="justify">This action accompanies the attendance of the striped beetle, although it is declared to be not anon acquired by it. The alone antidote is to get rid of the beetles as above, and to aggregate and dispose of every angled blade or plant. Cucumber-blight or Mildew is agnate to that which attacks muskmelons, the leaves axis yellow, dying in spots and assuredly dehydration up altogether.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cut-worm:</strong></div><div align="justify">The cut-worm is conceivably the best annoying of all garden pests. Others do added damage, but none is so exasperating. He works at night, attacks the strongest, healthiest plants, and is content artlessly to cut them off, seldom, apparently, bistro abundant or carrying abroad any of the burst leaves or stems, although occasionally I accept begin such bits, abnormally baby onion tops, abject off and partly into the soil. In baby area the quickest and best antidote is hand-picking. As the worms assignment at night they may be begin with a flashlight; or absolute aboriginal in the morning. In daytime by digging about in the clay wherever a cut is found, and by accurate search, they can almost consistently be discovered.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Flea-beetle:</strong></div><div align="justify">This small, atramentous or striped hard-shelled mite attacks potatoes and adolescent cabbage, radish and alarm plants. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Potato-beetle:</strong></div><div align="justify">The striped Colorado beetle, which invariably finds the potato patch, no amount how baby or isolated. On baby plots hand-picking of old bugs and abolition of eggs (which are laid on under side of leaves) is quick and sure.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Root-maggot:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is a baby white grub, generally causing serious injury to radishes, onions and the banknote group. Liming the clay and rotation are the best preventives. Abort all infested plants, being sure to get the maggots back affairs them up.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Squash-bug:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is the large, black, collapsed "stink-bug," so destructive of annihilate and the added active vines. Protection with frames, or hand-picking, are the best home garden remedies. The old bugs may be trapped beneath boards and by aboriginal vines. The adolescent bugs, or "sap-sucking nymphs," are the ones that do the absolute damage.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>White-Fly:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is the best alarming beneath glass, but occasionally is troublesome on plants and amazon and cucumber vines. The adolescent are scab-like insects and do the absolute damage.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001XW8KW4&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>White-grub or muck-worm:</strong></div><div align="justify">Back the roots of distinct plants are attacked, dig out, abort the grubs and, if the bulb is not too abundant injured, reset.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span style="font-size: large;"><strong>PRECAUTIONS</strong></span></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">So abundant for what we can do in absolute hand-to-hand, or rather hand-tomouth, conflict with the enemy. Absolute few remedies accept anytime proved entirely successful, abnormally on crops accoutrement any considerable area. It will be far better, far easier and far added able to use he afterward agency of anticipation adjoin bulb annoyance ravages: </div><div align="justify"><span style="color: red;">First</span>, aim to accept soil, aliment and plants that will aftermath a rapid, robust growth after check. Such plants are hardly attacked by any plant disease, and the foliage does not assume to be so appetizing to eatinginsects; besides which, of course, the plants are abundant added good able to withstand their advance if they do come. </div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: red;">Second</span></strong>, accord clean, frequent culture and accumulate the clay busy. Do not accept old weeds and debris lying around for insects and eggs to be cloistral by. Dispose of all leaves, stems and added debris from plants that accept been diseased. Do not let</div><div align="justify">the arena lie idle, but by connected agriculture accumulate the bugs, caterpillars and eggs consistently abiding out and apparent to their accustomed enemies.</div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: red;">Third</span></strong>, convenance crop rotation. This is of appropriate accent area any root ache is developed. Fourth, watch carefully and consistently for the first actualization of trouble. The old adages "eternal acuity is the price of peace," and "a stitch in time saves nine," are boilerplate more applicable than to this matter. And last, and of acute importance, be prepared to act at once. Do not accord the adversary an hour's rest after his attendance is discovered. In about every case it is alone by having time to multiply, that accident amounting to annihilation will be done.</div><div align="justify"></div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-33008282773600382452010-10-26T17:14:00.000+02:002010-10-26T17:14:06.362+02:00How to use Biological and Chemical controls<b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbvzEH-3fI/AAAAAAAAALA/HEDsX8hGBEw/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" nx="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbvzEH-3fI/AAAAAAAAALA/HEDsX8hGBEw/s400/1.jpg" width="277" /></a></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Biological controls</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Biological controls are nature's way of regulating populations. Biological controls rely on predators and parasites to keep organisms under control. Many of our present pest problems result from the loss of predator species. Other biological controls include birds and bats that eat insects. A single bat can eat up to 600 mosquitoes an hour. Many bird species eat insect pests in the garden. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is a bacteria that specifically attacks larvae of some insect pests including white grubs in the lawn and Japanese beetles. This bacteria is harmless to desirable species.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Chemical controls</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">When using chemical controls, be very careful with pesticides. Most common pesticides are broad spectrum in that they kill a wide variety of organisms. Spray applications of insecticides are likely to kill numerous</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">beneficial insects as well as the pests. Herbicides applied to weed species may drift in the wind or vaporize in the heat of the day and injure non-targeted plants. Runoff of pesticides can pollute water. Many pesticides are toxic to humans as well as pets and small animals that may enter your yard.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Some common, non-toxic household substances are as effective as many more toxic compounds. A few drops of dishwashing detergent mixed with water and sprayed on plants is extremely effective in controlling</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">many soft-bodied insects such as aphids and whiteflies. Crushed garlic mixed with water may control certain insects. A baking soda solution has been shown to help control some fungal diseases on roses. When using pesticides, follow label directions carefully. Altering the rate of application or increasing the frequency of application can injure desirable plant and animal species.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">IF YOU DECIDE </span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;"> that the best solution to your pest problem is chemical. by itself or, preferably, combined with non-chemical treatments be aware that one of the greatest causes of pesticide exposure to humans is the</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">use of pesticides in and around the home. Anyone can buy a wide variety of off the shelf pesticide products to control weeds, unwanted insects, and other pests. No special training is required to use these pesticides. Yet many of the products can be hazardous to people, especially when stored, handled, applied, or disposed of improperly. The results achieved by using chemical pesticides are generally temporary, and repeated treatments may be required. Over time, some pests become pesticide-resistant, meaning they adapt to the chemical and are no longer harmed by it. This forces you to choose another product or method. If used incorrectly, home-use pesticide products can be poisonous to humans. As a result, it is extremely important</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">for you to take responsibility for making sure that these products are used properly. The basic steps in reducing pesticide risks are:</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">• </span></div></span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: lime;">Choosing the right pesticide product.</span></span><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">• </span></div></span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: lime;">Reading the product label.</span></span><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">• </span></div></span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: lime;">Determining the right amount to purchase and use.</span></span><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">• </span></div></span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: lime;">Using the product safely and correctly.</span></span><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-family: OpenSymbol; font-size: xx-small;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">• </span></div><div align="left"><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><span style="color: lime;"> </span></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Determining the Correct Amount To Use</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Many products can be bought in a convenient ready-to-use form, such as in spray cans or spray bottles, that won't require any mixing.</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">However, if you buy a product that has to be measured out or mixed with water, prepare only the amount of pesticide that you need for the area where you plan to use the pesticide (target area). The label on a pesticide product contains much useful information, but there isn't always room to include examples of different dilutions for every home use. Thus, it is important to know how to measure volume and figure out the exact size of the area where you want to apply the pesticide. Determining the correct amount for your immediate use requires some careful calculations. Use the following example as an illustration of how to prepare only the amount of pesticide needed for your immediate pest control problem.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">An example: The product label says, .For the control of aphids on tomatoes, mix 8 fluid ounces of pesticide into 1 gallon of water and spray until foliage is wet. You have only 6 tomato plants. From experience, you know that 1 gallon is too much, and that you really need only 1 quart of water to wet the leaves on these 6 plants. A quart is only ¼ of a gallon. Because you want to use less water than the label says, you need less</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">pesticide. You need only ¼ of the pesticide amount listed on the label only 2 fluid ounces. This makes the same strength spray recommended by the label, and is the appropriate amount for the 6 tomato plants. In short, all you need to do is figure the amount of pesticide you need for the size of your target area, using good measurements and careful arithmetic.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Image on top by</span> <a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=404">Image">Simon Howden / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a></div></span></b></div><div align="left"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0030T0RJC&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span><span style="color: lime;">When you are ready to buy a pesticide product, follow these recommendations:</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">First, be certain that you have identified the problem correctly. Then, choose the least toxic pesticide that will achieve the results you want and be the least toxic to you and the environment. When the words .broad-spectrum. appear on the label, this means the product is effective against a broad range of pests. If the label says selective, the product is effective against one or a few pests.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Find the signal word either Danger-Poison, Danger, Warning, or Caution on the pesticide label. The signal word tells you how poisonous the product is to humans. Pesticide products labeled Danger-Poison are</span></div><div align="left"><span style="color: lime;">Restricted Use and are mainly used under the supervision of a certified applicator. For the most part, these products should not beavailable for sale to the consumer. Choose the form of pesticide (aerosol, dust, bait, or other) best suited to your target site and the pest you want to control.</span></div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span></span><span style="color: lime; font-family: ArialMT;">Storing and disposing of pesticides properly.</span></b></b>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-8717293076131478942010-10-26T16:58:00.000+02:002010-10-26T16:58:14.354+02:00Pest Management, Control strategies<b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"> <div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbr_wkdOwI/AAAAAAAAAK8/d_ah8X32XIM/s1600/fresh+vegetable+and+fruit.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="250" nx="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbr_wkdOwI/AAAAAAAAAK8/d_ah8X32XIM/s400/fresh+vegetable+and+fruit.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><div align="left">Pest management practices</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">Preventing pests should be your first goal. But it’s unlikely you will be able to avoid all pest problems, since some plant seeds and disease organisms lay dormant in the soil for years. Diseases need three elements to become established: the disease organism, a susceptible species, and the proper environmental conditions.</div><div align="left">Some disease organisms can live in the soil for years; other organisms are carried in infected plant material that falls to the ground. Some disease organisms are carried by insects. Good sanitation will help limit some</div><div align="left">problems. Planting resistant varieties of plants prevents many diseases. Rotating annual crops in a garden also prevents some diseases.</div><div align="left">You will likely have the most opportunity to alter the environment in favor of the plant and not the disease. Healthy, garden plants have a higher resistance to pests. Plants that have adequate, but not excessive,</div><div align="left">nutrients are better able to resist attacks from both diseases and insects. Excessive rates of nitrogen often result in extremely succulent vegetative growth and can make plants more susceptible to insect and disease problems, as well as decrease their winter hardiness. Proper watering and spacing of plants limits the spread of some <span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000UWTLOY&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>diseases. Some disease species require free standing water in which to spread, while other species just need high humidity. Proper spacing provides good aeration around plants.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Trickle irrigation, where water is applied to the soil and not the plant leaves, may be helpful. Barriers may be effective to exclude some pests. Mulching is effective against weeds. Fences can limit damage from rabbits.</div><div align="left">Row covers may prevent insect damage on young vegetable plants. Netting can be applied to small fruit trees and berries to limit damage from birds.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left">Integrated Pest Management</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">It is difficult, if not impossible, to prevent all pest problems every year. If your best prevention efforts have not been entirely successful, you may need to use some control methods. Integrated Pest Management</div><div align="left">relies on several techniques to keep pests at acceptable population levels without excessive use of chemical controls. The basic principles of IPM include monitoring (scouting), determining tolerable injury levels</div><div align="left">(thresholds), and applying appropriate strategies and tactics. Unlike other methods of pest control where pesticides are applied on a rigid schedule, IPM applies only those controls that are needed, when they are needed, to control pests that will cause more than a tolerable level of damage to the plant. Monitoring is essential for a successful IPM program. Check your plants regularly. Look for signs of damage from insects and diseases as well as indications of adequate fertility and moisture. Early identification of potential problems is essential.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">There are thousands of insects in the garden, many of which are harmless or even beneficial. Proper identification is needed before control strategies can be adopted. It is important to recognize the different stages of insect development for several reasons. The caterpillar eating your plants may be the larvae of the butterfly you were trying to attract. The small larvae with six spots on its back is probably the young of the ladybug, a very beneficial insect.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div><div align="left">Some control practices are most effective on young insects. Different stages may also be more damaging than others. It is not necessary to kill every insect, weed, or disease organism to have a healthy garden.</div><div align="left">This is where the concept of thresholds comes in. The economic threshold is the point where the damage caused by the pest exceeds the cost of control. In a home garden, this can be difficult to determine. What</div><div align="left">you are growing and how you intend to use it will determine how much damage you are willing to tolerate. Remember that larger plants, especially those close to harvest, can tolerate more damage than a tiny seedling. A few flea beetles on a radish seedling may warrant control whereas numerous Japanese beetles eating the leaves of beans close to harvest may not. If the threshold level for control has been exceeded, you may need to employ control strategies. Strategies can be discussed with the Cooperative Extension Service, garden centers, or nurseries.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left">Control strategies-Mechanical/physical controls Insects</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">Many insects can be removed by hand. This method is preferable if a few, large insects are causing the problem. Simply remove the insect from the plant and drop it into a container of soapy water or vegetable</div><div align="left">oil. Caution: some insects have spines or excrete oily substances that can cause injury to humans. Use caution when handling unfamiliarinsects. Wear gloves or remove insects with tweezers. Many insects can be removed from plants by spraying water from a hose or sprayer. Small vacuums can be used to suck up insects. Traps can be used effectively for some insects. These come in a variety of styles depending on the insect to be caught. Many traps rely on the use of pheromones --naturally occurring chemicals produced by the insects and used to ttract the opposite sex during mating. They are extremely specific for each species and, therefore, will not harm beneficial species. One caution with traps is that they may actually draw more insects into your garden.</div><div align="left">You should not place them directly in the garden. Other traps are more generic and will attract numerous species. These include such things as yellow and blue sticky cards. Different insects are attracted to different</div><div align="left">colors. Sticky cards can also be used effectively to monitor insect pests.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left">Weeds</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">Hoeing, pulling, and mulching are the most effective physical control methods for weeds. Weeding is most important while plants are small. Well established plants can often tolerate competition from weeds.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left">Diseases</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">Removal of diseased material limits the spread of some diseases. Clean up litter dropped from diseased plants. Prune diseased branches on trees and shrubs. When pruning diseased plants, disinfect your pruners</div><div align="left">between cuts with a solution of chlorine bleach to avoid spreading the disease from plant to plant. Control insects known to spread plant diseases.</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><b><span style="font-family: Arial-BoldMT;"><div align="left">Other pests</div><div align="left"><br />
</div></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT;"><div align="left">Fences, netting, and plant guards can be extremely successful in limiting damage from small mammals and birds. Numerous traps are also available to catch or kill some animals. Caution: In many states it is illegal to move wildlife, including squirrels. Traps may also catch animals other than the ones targeted. Check local regulations before trapping. </div><div align="left">Diatomaceous earth, a powder-like dust made of tiny marine organisms called diatoms, can be used to reduce damage from soft-bodied insects and slugs. Spread this material on the soil--it is sharp and cuts or</div><div align="left">irritates these soft organisms. It is harmless to other organisms. Shallow dishes of beer can be used to trap slugs.</div></span></b></b></b></b></b></b>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-49299786563883860042010-10-26T16:42:00.000+02:002010-10-26T16:42:25.212+02:00Insects, Diseases and Mites about them.<div align="justify">I use the appellation "methods of fighting" rather than the added accepted one, "remedies," because by both</div><div align="justify">experience and abstraction I am added and more assertive that so continued as the gardener--home or otherwise--who cares to be behindhand and thus become a agriculturalist of all sorts of plant pests, is accustomed to do so--justso continued we can accomplish no remedy worth the name.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">When speaking of a antidote in this affiliation we actual frequently are putting the barrow afore the horse, and accredit to some agency of prevention. Prevention is not alone the best, but generally the alone cure. This the gardener should consistently remember.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1594863083&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Early apprehension and assay of pests and diseases agency a healthier growing environment. Annoyance administration can be one of the greatest challenges to the home gardener. Backyard pests accommodate weeds, insects, diseases, and some breed of wildlife. Weeds are plants that are growing out of place. Insect pests accommodate an astronomic cardinal of species from tiny thrips, that are about airy to the naked eye, to the ample larvae of the amazon hornworm. Diseases are acquired by fungi, bacteria, viruses, and added organisms, some of which are alone now being classified. Poor bulb diet and abusage of pesticides additionally can cause abrasion to plants. Slugs, mites, and abounding breed of wildlife such as rabbits, deer, and crows can be acutely destructive. Careful identification of the botheration is capital afore ascendancy practices can be used. Some insect accident may arise to be a disease, abnormally if no arresting insects</div><div align="justify">are present. Nutrient problems may additionally actor diseases. Herbicide damage resulting from corruption of chemicals additionally can be mistaken for other problems.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Insects and mites</strong></div><div align="justify">All insects accept six legs, but added than that they are acutely variable. They accommodate such bacilli as beetles, flies, bees, ants, moths, and butterflies. Mites and spiders accept eight legs– they are not insects. But</div><div align="justify">for the purposes of this discussion, they will be advised as insects. Finding a annoyance botheration and again alleviative for that botheration – such as spot spraying – is amount able and banned any accident to non-targeted species. Insects accident plants in several ways. The best arresting accident is chewed bulb leaves and flowers. Abounding pests are arresting and can be readily identified, including the Japanese beetle, Colorado potato beetle, and abundant breed of caterpillars such as covering caterpillars and tomato hornworms.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Other chewing insects, however, such as cutworms (which are caterpillars) come out at night to eat, and couch into the clay during the day. These are much harder to analyze but should be advised if adolescent plants assume to disappear brief or are begin cut off at arena level. Sucking insects are acutely accepted and can be actual damaging. These insects insert their aperture genitalia into the bulb tissues and blot out the bulb juices. They additionally may backpack diseases that they advance from bulb to bulb as they move about the yard. You may doubtable that these insects are present if you notice agee bulb leaves or annual petals. Generally the adolescent leaves will arise coiled or puckered. Flowers developing from the buds may only</div><div align="justify">partially develop. Look on the base of the leaves as that is area many species tend to gather. Accepted sucking insects accommodate leafhoppers, aphids, abject bugs, thrips and mites. Added insects account accident by boring into stems, fruits, and leaves. They may agitate the plant’s ability to carriage water. They additionally actualize opportunities for ache organisms to advance the plants. You may doubtable the attendance of arid insects if you see baby accumulations of sawdust like actual on bulb stems or fruits. Accepted examples of arid insects accommodate annihilate backcountry borers and blah borers.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0002YW26E&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Diseases</strong></div><div align="justify">Plant ache identification is acutely difficult. In some cases, only laboratory assay can absolutely analyze diseases. Ache organisms injure plants in several ways. Some advance blade surfaces and absolute the plant’s ability to backpack on photosynthesis. Added bacilli aftermath substances that clog bulb tissues that carriage baptize and nutrients. Other ache bacilli aftermath toxins that annihilate the bulb or alter plant tissue with their own. Symptoms associated with bulb diseases may include the attendance of mushroom-like growths on trunks of trees; leaves with a grayish aged appearance; spots on leaves, flowers, and fruits; sudden wilting or afterlife of a bulb or branch; sap exuding from branches or trunks of trees; and bantam growth.</div><div align="justify">Misapplication of pesticides and nutrients, air pollutants, and other environmental altitude such as calamity and freezing can additionally mimic some ache problems. Yellowing or bloom of leaves and stunted</div><div align="justify">growth may announce a comestible problem. At aboriginal glance, bloom end rot of tomato, in which the basal of the amazon turns black, might appear to be a ache acquired by some pathogen. It is absolutely caused by the plant’s disability to booty up calcium bound abundant during periods of accelerated growth. Prevent this botheration with able moisture–adding more calcium is of no benefit! Blade crimper or agee advance may be an aftereffect of herbicide application.</div>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-27508668844231664992010-10-26T16:25:00.000+02:002010-10-26T16:25:59.282+02:00Best Varieties of the Garden Vegetables and short review<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbkrBkz7fI/AAAAAAAAAK4/G03o9ubpU6M/s1600/Fruit+and+Vegetables.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" nx="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbkrBkz7fI/AAAAAAAAAK4/G03o9ubpU6M/s400/Fruit+and+Vegetables.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>From the point of view of the beginner gardener it is to be regretted that we cannot acquire the apparent bare accuracy about varieties, for actually the acceptable ones are acceptable abundant to use up all the legitimate adjectives aloft which berry food would affliction to pay postage. <br />
<div align="justify">Every division sees the addition of literally hundreds of fresh varieties--or, as is added generally the case, old</div><div align="justify">varieties beneath fresh names--which acquire actually no alibi for being unloaded aloft the accessible except that they will accord a beyond accumulation to the seller. Of course, in a way, it is the accountability of the accessible for paying the adorned prices asked--that is, that allotment of the accessible which does not know. Commercial planters and accomplished gardeners stick to well accepted sorts. Fresh varieties are tried, if at all, by the packet only--and again "on suspicion."</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">In about every instance the varieties mentioned acquire been grown by the author, but his recommendations are by no agency based upon personal acquaintance alone. Wherever introductions of contempo years have</div><div align="justify">proved to be absolute improvements aloft beforehand varieties, they are given in alternative to the old, which are, of course, artlessly abundant better known.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">It is absurd for any actuality to aces out this, that or the other variety of a vegetable and characterization it actually "the best." But the person who wants to save time in authoritative out his berry annual can depend</div><div align="justify">upon the afterward to acquire been broadly tested, and to acquire "made good."</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Asparagus:</strong></div><div align="justify">While there are agog claims put alternating for several of the altered varieties of asparagus, as far as I acquire seen any accurate almanac of tests (Bulletin 173, N. J. Agr. Exp. Station), the award-winning goes to Palmetto, which gave twenty-eight per cent. added than its abutting rival, Donald's Elmira. Big crop abandoned is frequently no recommendation of a vegetable to the home gardener, but in this instance it does accomplish a big difference; first, because Palmetto is equal to any added asparagus in quality, and second, because the asparagus bed is bearing alone a few weeks during the gardening season, and area arena is limited, as in best home gardens, it is important to cut this decay amplitude bottomward as abundant as possible. This is for beds kept in acceptable actualization and awful fed. Barr's Mammoth will probably prove added satisfactory if the bed is apt to be added or beneath neglected, for the acumen that beneath such affairs it will accomplish thicker stalks than the Palmetto.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Beans (dwarf):</strong></div><div align="justify">Of the dwarf beans there are three general types: the aboriginal round-podded "string" beans, the stringless roundpods, and the usually added flattish "wax" beans. For aboriginal early, the old reliable Added Aboriginal Red Valentine charcoal as acceptable as any array I have anytime tried. In acceptable strains of this array the pods acquire very slight strings, and they are actual fleshy. It makes alone a baby bush and is adequately advantageous and of acceptable quality. The care-taking planter, however, will put in alone abundant of these aboriginal aboriginal beans to aftermost a week or ten days, as the afterwards sorts are added abounding and of better quality. Burpee's Stringless Greenpod is a acceptable additional early. It is</div><div align="justify">larger, finer, stringless alike back mature, and of exceptionally handsome appearance. Bigger Refugee is the best abounding of the green-pods, and the best of them for quality, but with slight strings. Of the "wax" type, Brittle Wax is the earliest, and additionally a tremendous yielder. The adept favorite, Rust-proof Aureate Wax, is addition fine sort, and an abnormally able advantageous grower. </div><div align="justify">The best in quality among all backcountry beans is reached, perhaps, in Burpee's White Wax--the white apropos not to the pods, which are of a ablaze yellow, and flat --but to the beans, which are authentic white in all stages of growth. It has one abnormal and acutely admired quality--the pods abide tender longer than those of any added sort. Of the dwarf limas there is a fresh array which is destined, I think, to become the baton of the half-dozen added acceptable sorts to be had. That is the Burpee Improved. The name is rather misleading, as it is not an improved ache of the Dreer's or Kumerle backcountry lima, but a mutation, now thoroughly fixed. The bushes are stronger-growing and abundant larger than those of the beforehand types, extensive a acme of about three feet, standing acerb erect; both pods and beans are abundant larger, and it is</div><div align="justify">a anniversary earlier. Henderson's fresh Aboriginal Giant I acquire not yet tried, but from the description I should say it is the aforementioned blazon as the above. </div><div align="justify">Of the pole limas, the fresh Giant-podded is the hardiest--an important point in limas, which are a little aerial in architecture anyway, especially in the bulb stage--and the added acceptable yielder of any I have grown and aloof as acceptable in quality--and there is no vegetable much better than able-bodied adapted limas. With me, also, it has accepted as aboriginal as that old standard, Aboriginal Leviathan, but this may acquire been a chance occurrence. Ford's Mammoth is addition accomplished pole lima of large size. Of the added pole beans, the two that are still my favorites are Kentucky Wonder, or Old Homestead, and Aureate Cluster. The aloft has fat compact blooming pods, actually stringless until about mature, and of</div><div align="justify">enormous length. I acquire abstinent abounding over eight and a bisected inches long--and they are borne in abundant profusion. Aureate Cluster is one of the handsomest beans I know. It is appropriately named, for the pods, of a beautiful affluent aureate chicken color, adhere in acceptable clusters and great profusion. In affection it has no superior; it has consistently been a great favorite with my customers. One charge never abhorrence accepting too abounding of these, as the broiled beans are authentic white and baroque for winter use.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify">Last division I approved a fresh pole bean alleged Burger's Green-pod Stringless or White-seeded Kentucky Wonder (the broiled seeds of the old sort actuality brown). It did well, but was in so dry a abode that I could</div><div align="justify">not acquaint whether it was an advance over the accepted or not. It is claimed to be earlier.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Beets:</strong></div><div align="justify">In beets, varieties are about endless, but I confess that I acquire begin no arresting aberration in abounding cases. Edmund's Early and Aboriginal Model are acceptable for aboriginal crops. The Egyptian strains, though largely acclimated for market, acquire never been as acceptable in affection with me.</div><div align="justify">For the capital crop I like Blood-soaked Globe. In time it is a additional early, of appreciably acceptable form, bland bark and accomplished affection and color.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Broccoli:</strong></div><div align="justify">This vegetable is a poorer accessory of the cauliflower (which, by the way, has been termed "only a banknote with a college education"). It is of little use area cauliflower can be grown, but serves as a acting in arctic sections, as it is added able than that vegetable. Aboriginal White French is the accepted sort.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Brussels sprouts:</strong></div><div align="justify">This vegetable, in my opinion, is altogether too little grown. It is as accessible to abound as abatement and winter cabbage, and while the crop is less, the affection is so abundant aloft that for the home garden it actually should be a favorite. Today (Jan. 19th) we had for banquet sprouts from a few old plants that had been larboard in transplanting boxes in an accessible coldframe. These had been out all winter--with no protection, again freezing and thawing, and, while of advance small, they were added acceptable in affection than any banknote you ever ate. Dalkeith is the best dwarf-growing sort. Danish Award-winning is a new</div><div align="justify">sort, giving a abundant added crop than the beforehand types. I acquire approved it only one year, but should say it will become the accepted variety.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cabbage:</strong></div><div align="justify">--In cabbages, too, there is an amaranthine botch of varieties. The Jersey Wakefield still charcoal the accepted early. But it is at the best but a few canicule advanced of the flat-headed aboriginal sorts which angle abundant best afterwards breaking, so that for the home garden a very few active will do. Glory of Enkhuisen is a fresh aboriginal array that has become a abundant favorite. Aboriginal Summertime and Succession are acceptable to follow these, and Danish Ballhead is the best affection winter cabbage, and</div><div align="justify">unsurpassed for befitting qualities. But for the home garden the Savoy type is, to my mind, far and abroad the best. It is not in the aforementioned class with the accustomed sorts at all. Accomplishment Drumhead Savoy is the best variety. Of the red cabbages, Mammoth Rock is the standard.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Carrots:</strong></div><div align="justify">The carrots are added belted as to cardinal of varieties. Aureate Ball is the ancient of them all, but additionally the smallest yielder. Aboriginal Scarlet Horn is the accepted early, actuality a better yielder than the above. The Danvers Half-long is apparently grown more than all added kinds together. It grows to a breadth of about six inches, a actual adorable abysmal orange in color. Area the garden soil is not in accomplished condition, and thoroughly fined and burst as it should be, the shorter-growing kinds, Ox-heart and Chantenay, will give added acceptable satisfaction. If there is any best in quality, I should award it to Chantenay.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Cauliflower;</strong></div><div align="justify">There is hardly a berry uncatalogued which does not contain its own appropriate cast of the actual best and ancient cauliflower ever introduced. These are for the best allotment alleged strains of either the old favorite, Henderson's Snowball, or the old Aboriginal Dwarf Erfurt. Snowball, and Burpee's Best Early, which resembles it, are the best varieties I acquire anytime developed for bounce or autumn. They are added likely</div><div align="justify">to head, and of abundant bigger affection than any of the ample backward sorts. Where acute altitude are not favorable to growing cauliflower, and in dry sections, Dry-weather is the best assertive to anatomy heads.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Celery:</strong></div><div align="justify">For the home garden the dwarf-growing, "self-blanching" varieties of celery are abundant to be preferred. White Plume and Golden Self-blanching are the best. The aloft is the ancient celery and of excellent quality, but not a acceptable keeper. Contempo introductions in celery acquire accepted actual absolute improvements. Conceivably the best of the newer sorts, for home use, is Winter Queen, as it is added readily</div><div align="justify">handled than some of the accepted bazaar sorts. In affection it has no superior. Back put abroad for winter properly, it will accumulate through April.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Corn:</strong></div><div align="justify">You will acquire to clothing yourself about corn. I acquire not the temerity to name any best varieties--every berry abundance has about bisected a dozen that are actually unequaled. For home use, I acquire cut my list</div><div align="justify">down to three: Aureate Bantam, a dwarf-growing aboriginal of extraordinary hardiness--can be buried beforehand than any added array and, while the ears are baby and with chicken kernels, it is awfully candied and fine in flavor. This change of a few years since, has accomplished wide popular favor as bound as any vegetable I know. Seymour's Sweet Orange is a fresh variety, somewhat agnate to Aureate Bantam, but later</div><div align="justify">and larger, of appropriately accomplished quality. White Evergreen, a perfected strain of Stowell's Evergreen, a accepted admired for years, is the third. It stays breakable best than any added candied blah I have ever grown.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B003HFEGBY&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>Cucumbers:</strong></div><div align="justify">Of cucumbers additionally there is a continued and assorted annual of names. The old Added Aboriginal White Spine is still the best early; for the main crop, some "perfected" anatomy of White Spine. I myself like the Fordhood Famous, as it is the healthiest ache I anytime grew, and has very ample bake-apple that stays green, while actuality of accomplished quality. In the last few years the Davis Perfect has won abundant popularity, and deservedly so. Abounding seedsmen adumbrate that this is destined to become the arch standard--and area seedsmen accede let us prick up our</div><div align="justify">ears! It has done actual able-bodied with me, the bake-apple actuality the handsomest of any I acquire grown. If it proves as able a agriculturalist it will replace Fordhood Famous with me.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Egg-plant:</strong></div><div align="justify">New York Bigger Purple is still the standard, but it has been to a ample admeasurement replaced by Black Beauty, which has the merit of actuality ten canicule beforehand and a added handsome fruit. Back once tried it will actual acceptable be the alone array grown.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Endive:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is a acting for bill for which I personally have never cared. It is abundantly acclimated commercially. Broad-leaved Batavian is a acceptable variety. Giant Fringed is the largest.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Kale:</strong></div><div align="justify">Kale is a greenhorn which has never been actual accepted in this country. Dwarf Scott Curled is the tenderest and best aerial (or least coarse) in flavor.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Kohlrabi:</strong></div><div align="justify">This appropriate mongrel should be added acceptable known. It looks as admitting a alarm had started to ascend into the banknote class and chock-full half-way. Back aggregate young, not added than an inch and a</div><div align="justify">half in bore at the most, they are absolutely nice and tender. They are of the easiest cultivation. White Vienna is the best.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Leek:</strong></div><div align="justify">For those who like this array of affair it is--just the sort of affair they like. American Flag is the best variety, but why it was accustomed the aboriginal allotment of that name, I do not know.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Lettuce:</strong></div><div align="justify">To awning the lettuces thoroughly would booty a chapter by itself. For abridgement of space, I shall acquire to acknowledgment alone a few varieties, although there are abounding others as acceptable and ill-fitted to</div><div align="justify">different purposes. For quality, I put Mignonette at the top of the list, but it makes actual baby heads. Grand Rapids is the best loosehead sort--fine for beneath glass, in frames and aboriginal outdoors. Last fall from a bank 40 x 4 ft., I awash $36 annual in one crop, besides some acclimated at home. I could not advertise winter arch bill to customers who had already had this sort, so acceptable was its quality. May King and Big</div><div align="justify">Boston are the best alfresco bounce and aboriginal summertime sorts. Fresh York and Deacon are the best solid cabbage-head types for afraid summertime heat, and continued standing. Of the cos blazon Paris White is good. </div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Muskmelon:</strong></div><div align="justify">The varieties of muskmelon are additionally afterwards limit. I mention but two--which acquire accustomed acceptable achievement out of a large number tried, in my own experience. Netted Gem (known as Rocky Ford) for a green-fleshed type, and Emerald Gem for salmon-fleshed. There are a cardinal of newer varieties, such as Hoodoo, Miller's Cream, Montreal, Nutmeg, etc., all of accomplished quality.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Watermelon:</strong></div><div align="justify">With me (in Connecticut) the seasons are a little short for this fruit. Cole's Aboriginal and Sweetheart acquire fabricated the best showing. Halbert Honey is the best for quality.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Okra:</strong></div><div align="justify">In air-conditioned sections the Perfected Perkins does best, but it is not absolutely so acceptable in affection as the southern favorite, White Velvet. The flowers and plants of this vegetable are actual ornamental.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Onion:</strong></div><div align="justify">For some alien reason, altered seedsmen alarm the same onion by the aforementioned name. I acquire never begin any annual of this, except that a acceptable abounding onions accustomed altered names in the catalogs are absolutely the aforementioned thing. At atomic they brand into each other added than added vegetables. With me Prizetaker is the alone sort now developed in quantity, as I acquire begin it to out crop all other</div><div align="justify">yellows, and to be a acceptable keeper. It is a little milder in affection than the American yellows--Danvers and Southport Globe. Back started under bottle and crude out in April, it attains the admeasurement and the</div><div align="justify">quality of the ample Spanish onions of which it is a descendant.</div><div align="justify">Weathersfield Red is the accepted collapsed red, but not absolutely so acceptable in quality or for befitting as Southport Red Globe. Of the whites I like best Mammoth Silver-skin. It is accessible aboriginal and the finest in quality, to my taste, of all the onions, but not a acceptable keeper. Ailsa Craig, a new English array now listed in several American catalogs, is the best to abound for added adorned onions, abnormally for exhibiting; it should be started in February or March beneath glass.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Parsley:</strong></div><div align="justify">Emerald is a large-growing, beautifully black and mild-flavored sort, able-bodied aces of adoption.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B002BBEZFM&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>Parsnip:</strong></div><div align="justify">This vegetable is abnormally admired because it may be had at accomplishment back added vegetables are scarce. Hollow Crown ("Improved," of course!) is the best.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Peas:</strong></div><div align="justify">Peas are worse than corn. You will acquisition enough exclamation credibility in the pea sections of catalogs to alternation the vines on. If you appetite to escape academician fatigue and still acquire as acceptable as the best, if not better, bulb Gradus (or Prosperity) for aboriginal and additional early; Boston Unrivaled (an bigger anatomy of Telephone) for capital crop, and Gradus for autumn. These two peas are acceptable yielders, chargeless growers and of absolutely affably accomplished quality. They charge bushing, but I acquire never found a array of appropriate affection that does not.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Pepper:</strong></div><div align="justify">Ruby King is the standard, large, red, balmy pepper, and as acceptable as any. Chinese Giant is a newer sort, beyond but later. The flesh is acutely blubbery and mild. On annual of this quality, it will have a added ambit of use than the beforehand sorts.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Pumpkins:</strong></div><div align="justify">The old Ample Cheese, and the newer Quaker Pie, are as prolific, able and accomplished in affection and acidity as any.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Potato:</strong></div><div align="justify">Bovee is a acceptable aboriginal garden sort, but afterwards the best of ability is actual small. Irish Cobbler is a acceptable aboriginal white. Green Mountain is a accepted admired for capital crop in the East--a sure yielder and heavy-crop potato of accomplished quality. Uncle Sam is the best affection potato I anytime grew. Baked, they aftertaste about as affluent as chestnuts.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B001KUN2F4&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>Radish:</strong></div><div align="justify">I do not affliction to say abundant about radishes; I do not like them. They are, however, accepted favorites. They appear round, halflong, long and tapering; white, red, white-tipped, crimson, rose, yellow-brown and black; and from the admeasurement of a button to over a foot long by fifteen inches in circumference--the closing actuality the new Chinese or Celestial. So you can brainstorm what a bacchanal of varieties the seed food may allow in. I acquire approved many--and cut my own annual bottomward to two, Rapid-red (probably an advance of the old standard, Scarlet Button), and Blood-soaked Globe (or Giant), a big, rapid, advantageous agriculturalist of good quality, and one that does not get "corky." A little land-plaster, or gypsum, formed into the clay at time of planting, will add to both appearance and affection in radishes.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Spinach:</strong></div><div align="justify">The best array of appearance is Swiss Chard Beet (see below). If you appetite the absolute sort, use Continued Season, which will accord you cuttings continued afterwards added sorts acquire run to seed. Fresh Zealand will stand added calefaction than any added sort. Victoria is a newer variety, for which the affirmation of best affection is made. In my own balloon I could not notice actual abundant difference. It has, however, thicker and "savoyed" leaves.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Salsify:</strong></div><div align="justify">This is, to my taste, the best adorable of all root vegetables. It will not do able-bodied in clay not abysmal and cautiously pulverized, but a row or two for home use can be had by digging and fining before sowing the seed. It is annual added work. Mammoth Sandwich is the best variety.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Squash:</strong></div><div align="justify">Of this accomplished vegetable there are no added acceptable sorts for the home garden than the little Delicata, and Fordhook. Vegetable Marrow is a accomplished English array that does able-bodied in about all localities. The best of the newer large-vined sorts is The Delicious. It is of finer affection than the able-bodied accepted Hubbard. For ancient use, try a few plants of White or Chicken Backcountry Scalloped. They are not so acceptable in quality as either Delicata or Fordhook, which are accessible aural a week or so later. The closing are additionally accomplished keepers and can be had, by starting plants aboriginal and by accurate storing, about from June to June.</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000TVFZQE&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe>Tomato:</strong></div><div align="justify">If you acquire a absolutely hated enemy, accord him a dozen seed catalogs and ask him to baddest for you the best four tomatoes. But unless you appetite to become criminally involved, accelerate his doctor around</div><div align="justify">the abutting morning. A few years ago I approved over forty kinds. A acceptable many have been alien since, some of which I acquire tried. I am prepared to accomplish the afterward statements: Earliana is the ancient quality tomato, for ablaze balmy soils, that I acquire anytime grown; Chalk's Jewel, the ancient for added soils (Bonny Best Aboriginal resembles it); Matchless is a baroque main-crop sort; Ponderosa is the added acceptable and best quality--but it brand to split. There is one added sort, which I have approved one year only, so do not acquire my assessment as conclusive. It is the aftereffect of a cantankerous amid Ponderosa and Dwarf Champion--one of the strongest-growing sorts. It is alleged Dwarf Giant. The fruits are tremendous in admeasurement and in affection incomparable by any. The backcountry is very healthy, able and stocky. I accept this fresh amazon will become the standard capital crop for the home garden. By all agency try it. And that is a acceptable accord to say for a change in its additional year!</div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><div align="justify"><strong>Turnip:</strong></div><div align="justify">The ancient alarm of acceptable affection is the White Milan. There are several others of the white-fleshed sorts, but I acquire never found them according in affection for table to the chicken sorts. Of these,</div><div align="justify">Golden Ball (or Orange Jelly) is the best quality. Petrowski is a different and audible sort, of actual aboriginal ability and of especially fine quality. If you acquire allowance for but one array in your home garden, plant this for early, and a ages afterwards for capital crop. Do not abort to try some of this year's novelties. Bisected the fun of gardening is in the experimenting. But back you are testing out the new things in allegory with the old, aloof booty a few plants of the latter and accord them the aforementioned added affliction and attention. Actual generally the reputation of a change is congenital aloft the actuality that in growing it on trial the agriculturalist has accustomed it abnormal affliction and the best clay and location at his command. Be fair to the standards--and actual generally they will abruptness you absolutely as abundant as the novelties.<br />
</div><div align="justify"></div><a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=151">Top right Image: Suat Eman / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-39348970430915130822010-10-26T15:29:00.001+02:002010-10-26T15:30:22.846+02:00Fruit Crops - Detailed care and advices<div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">THE FRUIT CROPS</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbXNvFKe9I/AAAAAAAAAK0/cXgtrVcg3_o/s1600/vegetables+on+the+table.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><span style="color: cyan;"><img border="0" height="400" nx="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbXNvFKe9I/AAAAAAAAAK0/cXgtrVcg3_o/s400/vegetables+on+the+table.jpg" width="260" /></span></a></div><span style="color: cyan;">Under this branch are included: </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Bean, dwarf Bean, pole Corn Peas Cucumber Egg-plant Melon, musk Melon, water Okra Pepper Pumpkins Squash Tomato</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Most of these vegetables alter from both the above-mentioned groups in two important ways. Aboriginal of all, the clay should not be fabricated too rich, especially in nitrogenous manures, such as able alpha yard-manure; although ablaze dressings of nitrate of soda are about of abundant advice in giving them a quick start--as aback ambience out in the field. Second, they are warm-weather admiring plants, and annihilation is acquired by attempting to sow or set out the plants until all crisis from late frosts is over, and the arena is able-bodied broiled up. (Peas, of course, are an barring to this rule, and to some admeasurement the aboriginal beans.) Third, they crave abundant added allowance and are developed for the best allotment in hills. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Light, warm, "quick," albino to abrasive soils, and old, fine, well rotted manure--applied about in the acropolis besides that bashed under, make the best aggregate for results. Such appropriate hills are prepared</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">by appearance off, digging out the clay to the abyss of eight to ten inches, and eighteen inches to two anxiety square, and incorporating several forkfuls of the compost. A little guano, or added acceptable still cottonseed meal, say 1/2 to 1 gill of the former, or a gill of the latter, alloyed with the admixture aback putting into the hill, will additionally be very good. Hills to be buried aboriginal should be aloft an inch or two above the surface, unless they are aloft angled ground.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">The greatest adversity in adopting all the backcountry fruits--melons, etc.-- is in auspiciously active their insect enemies--the striped beetle, the auger and the flat, atramentous "stink-bug," actuality the affliction of these. Remedies will be appropriate in the abutting chapter. But for the home garden, area alone a few hills of anniversary will be required, by far the easiest and the alone abiding way of angry them will be by protecting</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">with bottomless boxes, ample abundant to awning the hills, and covered with mosquito netting, or better, "plant-protecting cloth," which has the added arete of giving the hills an aboriginal start. These boxes may be calmly fabricated of one-half by eight-inch boards, or from ordinary cracker-boxes, such as acclimated for authoritative flats. Plants so adequate in the beforehand stages of advance will usually either not be attacked, or will, with the abetment of the remedies declared in the following chapter, be able to bear the insect's visits.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Beans, dwarf.</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Beans are one of the best broadly admired of all garden vegetables--and one of the best calmly grown. They are very particular about alone one thing--not to accept a abundant wet soil. The dwarf or backcountry sorts are buried in bifold or distinct drills, eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, and for the aboriginal sowing not abundant over an inch deep. Afterwards plantings should go in two to three inches deep, according to soil. Ashes or some acceptable alloyed fertilizer aerial in potassium, applied and able-bodied alloyed in at time of planting, will be actual useful. </span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">As the plants accretion admeasurement they should be hardly hilled--to advice hold the stalks up firmly. Never assignment over or aces from the plants while they are wet. The dwarf limas should not be buried until ten to fourteen canicule afterwards than the aboriginal sorts. Be abiding to put them in edgeways, with the eye down, and aback there is no anticipation of immediate rain, or the accomplished burying is adequately abiding to be lost.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1419678965&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">Beans, pole:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">The pole varieties should not go in until about the time for the limas. Plant in distinctively able hills (see above)</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">ten to twenty seeds, and aback able-bodied up thin, abrogation three to five. Poles are best set aback advancing the hills. A abundant advance over the ancient pole is fabricated by nailing architecture laths durably across 2 x 3-in. posts seven or eight anxiety aerial (see illustration). To secure extra aboriginal pods on the poles compression aback the accouterment at bristles anxiety high.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Corn:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">For added aboriginal ears, blah may calmly be started on sod, as directed for cucumbers. Be sure, however, not to get into the open until crisis from frost is over--usually at atomic ten canicule afterwards it is safe for the aboriginal planting, which is hardly fabricated afore May 1st. Frequent, bank agronomics is a prime call in growing this crop. Aback able-bodied up, attenuate to four stalks to a hill--usually bristles to seven kernels actuality planted. A slight hilling aback the tassels appear will be advisable. Plant frequently for assumption crops. The last sowing may be fabricated as backward as the aboriginal allotment of July if the berry is well firmed in, to assure actual germination. Sweet blah for the garden is frequently buried in drills, about three anxiety apart, and thinning to ten to twelve inches.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Cucumber:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">This accepted admired is calmly developed if the striped beetle is captivated at bay. For the ancient fruits alpha on sod in the frames: Cut out sods four to six inches square, area the grass indicates affluent soil. Pack abutting calm in the frame, grass ancillary down, and advance seven or eight seeds into each, durably abundant to be captivated in place, accoutrement with about one and a bisected inches of ablaze soil; water</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">thoroughly and assure with bottle or cloth, demography affliction to ventilate. Set out in able hills afterwards crisis of frost is over. Outside crop is buried anon in the hills, application a dozen or more seeds and abrasion to three or four.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B000F6WH5U&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">Egg-plant:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">The egg-plant is consistently started beneath glass, for the Northern States, and should be alert transplanted, the additional time into pots, to be of the best admeasurement aback put out. This should not be until after tomatoes are set, as it is conceivably the tenderest of all garden vegetables as commendations heat. The clay should be actual affluent and as moist as can be selected. If dry, irrigating will be necessary. This should</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">not be delayed until the advance becomes stunted, as abrupt advance then induced is acceptable to account the bake-apple to crack.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Watch for potato-bugs on your egg-plants. They assume to draw these troublesome beetles as a allurement does adamant filings, and I accept seen plants about broke by them in one day. As they assume to know</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">there will not be time to eat the accomplished bake-apple they booty pains to eat into the stems. The alone abiding antidote is to beating them off with a piece of bank into a pan of baptize and kerosene. Egg-plants are easily burned by Paris green, and that accepted antidote cannot be so effectively acclimated as on added crops; hellebore or arsenate of advance is good. As the division of advance is actual limited, it is advisable, besides having the plants as able-bodied developed as accessible aback set out, to accord a quick alpha with cotton-seed meal or nitrate, and aqueous admixture later is useful, as they are gross feeders. The fruits are accessible to eat from the admeasurement of a turkey egg to complete development.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Melon, musk:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">The ability of this adorable vegetable is almost identical with that of the cucumber. If annihilation it is added particular about accepting ablaze soil. If put in clay at all heavy, at the time of preparing the hill, add beach and leaf-mold to the compost, the hills made at atomic three anxiety square, and hardly raised. This adjustment is also of use in burying the added backcountry crops.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Melon, water:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">In the balmy Southern States watermelons may be grown cheaply, and they are so readily alien that in the baby home gardens it will not pay to abound them, for they booty up added amplitude than any added vegetable, with the barring of winter squash. The one advantage of growing them, area there is room, is that added acceptable quality than that usually to be bought may be obtained. Accord them the hottest spot in the garden and a albino quick soil. Use a array recommended for your accurate climate. Accord the aforementioned ability as for musk melon, except that the acropolis should be at atomic six to ten anxiety afar anniversary way. By burying abreast the bend of the garden, and avidity aback the vines, room may be adored and the ripening up of the crop fabricated added certain.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Okra:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Although the okra makes a actual able plant--and incidentally is one of the best accessory of all garden vegetables-- the berry is bound addle by wet or cold. Sow not beforehand than May 25th, in balmy soil, burying agilely in drills, about one and a half inches deep, and abrasion to a bottom or so; breed as with blah in drills. All pods not acclimated for soup or stems during summertime may be dried and acclimated in winter.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Peas:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">With affliction in authoritative alternating sowings, peas may be had during a continued season. The earliest, bland varieties are buried in drills twelve to eighteen inches apart, aboriginal in April. These are, however, of actual inferior affection compared to the channelled sorts, which may now be had about as aboriginal as the others. With the market gardener, the aberration of a few canicule in the crumbling of the crop is of a abundant accord added accent than the quality, but for the home garden the adverse is true.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">Another adjustment of burying the dwarf-growing kinds is to accomplish beds of four rows, six to eight inches apart, with a two-foot alleyway between beds. The tall-growing sorts charge be accurate by besom or in other ways; and are put about four anxiety afar in bifold rows, six inches apart. The aboriginal varieties if sown in August will usually complete a good fall crop. The aboriginal plantings should be fabricated in light, dry clay and but one inch deep; the afterwards ones in abysmal loam. In neither case should the arena be fabricated too rich, abnormally in nitrogen; and it should not be wet aback the berry is planted.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Pepper:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">A dozen pepper plants will accord affluence of pods for the boilerplate family. The varieties accept been abundantly bigger within recent years in the affection of mildness. The ability recommended for egg-plant is applicative additionally to the pepper. The capital aberration is that, although the pepper is actual breakable when young, the crop crumbling in the autumn will not be afflicted by considerable frost.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1580175945&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><span style="color: cyan;">Pumpkin:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">The "sugar" or "pie" varieties of the attic are the only ones acclimated in garden culture, and these alone area there is plenty of arena for all added purposes. The ability is the aforementioned as that for late squashes, which follows.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Squash:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">For the ancient annihilate the backcountry varieties of Scallop are used; to be followed by the summertime Crookneck and added summer varieties, best amid which are the Fordhook and Delicata. For all, hills should be able as declared at the alpha of this section and in accession it is able-bodied to mix with admixture a shovelful of coal ashes, acclimated to accumulate abroad the borer, to the advance of which the squash is decidedly liable. The agronomics is the aforementioned as that acclimated for melons or cucumbers, except that the hills for the winter sorts charge be at atomic eight anxiety afar and they are about put twelve.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;"><br />
</span></div><div align="justify"><strong><span style="color: cyan;">Tomato:</span></strong></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">For the ancient crop, tomatoes are started about March 1st. They should be alert transplanted, and for best after-effects the second transplanting should be put into pots--or into the frames, ambience six to eight inches anniversary way. They are not set out until crisis of frost is over, and the arena should not be too rich; old admixture acclimated in the hill, with a bathrobe of nitrate at ambience out, or a few canicule after, will accord them a acceptable start. According to variety, they are set three to bristles anxiety apart--four feet, area staking or trellising is given, as it should consistently be in garden culture, will be as abundant as the largestgrowing plants require. It will pay well, both for affection and quantity of fruit, to accumulate best of the suckers cut or rubbed off. The ripening of a few fruits may be hastened by attached cardboard accoutrements over the bunches, or by acrimonious and ripening on a lath in the hot sun.</span></div><div align="justify"><span style="color: cyan;">A aciculate watch should be kept for the ample blooming tomato-worm, which is almost absolutely the blush of the foliage. His attendance may aboriginal be noticed by bake-apple and leaves eaten. Hand-picking is the best remedy. Protection charge be fabricated adjoin the cutworm in localities area he works.</span></div><div align="justify"><br />
</div><a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/images/view_photog.php?photogid=404">Top right image: Simon Howden / FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-1888357166965202374.post-9627076351570046522010-10-26T14:46:00.000+02:002010-10-26T14:46:16.392+02:00Leaf Crops - Special needs and care (part 2)<div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Leaf Crops - In this post : <em>Chicory, Chervil, Chives, Cress, Chard, Dandelion, Endive, Kale, Lettuce, Mushroom, Paesley, Rhubarb, Sea-Kale, Spinach</em></strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbMOsoZthI/AAAAAAAAAKw/YiX9XFEEKBs/s1600/chicory.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; cssfloat: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="211" nx="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_1ZfyXHtZ-OY/TMbMOsoZthI/AAAAAAAAAKw/YiX9XFEEKBs/s320/chicory.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chicory:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This also is little grown. The Witloof, a kind now </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">being used, is however much more desirable. Sow in drills, thin to five </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">or six inches, and in August or September, earth up, as with early </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">celery, to blanch the stalks, which are used for salads, or boiled. </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Cut-back roots, planted in boxes of sand placed in a moderately warm </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">dark place and watered, send up a growth of tender leaves, making a </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">fine salad.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chervil:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Curled chervil is grown the same as parsley and used </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">for garnishing or seasoning. The root variety resembles the stumprooted </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">carrot, the quality being improved by frost. Sow in April or</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">September. Treat like parsnip. </span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chives:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Leaves are used for imparting an onion flavor. A clump </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">of roots set put will last many years.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Cress:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Another salad little grown in the home garden. To many, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">however, its spicy, pungent flavor is particularly pleasing. It is </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">easily grown, but should be planted frequently--about every two weeks.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Sow in drills, twelve to fourteen inches apart. Its only special </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">requirement is moisture. Water is not necessary, but if a bed can be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">started in some clean stream or pool, it will take care of itself. </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Upland cress or "pepper grass" grows in ordinary garden soil, being one </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"> very first salads. Sow in April, in drills twelve or fourteen </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">inches apart. It grows so rapidly that it may be had in five or six </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">weeks. Sow frequently for succession, as it runs to seed very quickly.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Chard:--See Spinach.</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B00014D07U&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Dandelion:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is an excellent "greens," but as the crop is not </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">ready until second season from planting it is not grown as much as it </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">should be. Sow the seed in April--very shallow. It is well to put in </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">with it a few lettuce or turnip seed to mark the rows. Drills should be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">one foot apart, and plants thinned to eight to twelve inches.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The quality is infinitely superior to the wild dandelion and may be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">still further improved by blanching. If one is content to take a small </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">crop, a cutting may be made in the fall, the same season as the sowing.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Endive:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This salad vegetable is best for fall use. Sow in June </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">or July, in drills eighteen to twenty-four inches apart, and thin to </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">ten to twelve inches. To be fit for use it must be blanched, either by</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">tying up with raffia in a loose bunch, or by placing two wide boards in </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">an inverted V shape over the rows; and in either case be sure the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">leaves are dry when doing this.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Kale:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Kale is a non-heading member of the cabbage group, used </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">as greens, both in spring and winter. It is improved by frost, but even </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">then is a little tough and heavy. Its chief merit lies in the fact that </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">it is easily had when greens of the better sorts are hard to get, as it </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">may be left out and cut as needed during winter--even from under snow. </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The fall crop is given the same treatment as late cabbage. Siberian </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">kale is sown in September and wintered-over like spinach.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Lettuce:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Is grown in larger quantities than all the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">other salad plants put together. By the use of hotbeds it may be had </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">practically the year round. The first sowing for the spring under-glass </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">crop is made in January or February. These are handled as for the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">planting outside--see Chapter VIII.--but are set in the frames six to </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">eight inches each way, according to variety. Ventilate freely during </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the day when over 55 give 45 at night. Water only when needed, but </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">then thoroughly, and preferably only on mornings of bright sunny days.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The plants for first outdoor crops are handled as already described. </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">After April 1st planting should be made every two weeks. During July </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and August the seed-beds must be kept shaded and moist. In August, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">first sowing for fall under-glass crop is made, which can be matured in</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">coldframes; later sowings going into hotbeds.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In quality, I consider the hard-heading varieties superior to the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">loose-heading sorts, but of course that is a matter of taste. The </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">former is best for crops maturing from the middle of June until </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">September, the latter for early and late sowings, as they mature more </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">quickly. The cos type is good for summer growing but should be tied up </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">to blanch well. To be at its best, lettuce should be grown very </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">rapidly, and the use of top-dressings of nitrate are particularly </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">beneficial with this crop. The ground should be light, warm, and very </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">rich, and cultivation shallow but frequent.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong><span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=B0009IR4CK&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span>Mushroom:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">While the mushroom is not a garden crop, strictly </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">speaking, still it is one of the most delicious of all vegetables for </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the home table, and though space does not permit a long description of </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the several details of its culture, I shall try to include all the e</span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">ssential points as succinctly as possible, (1) The place for the bed </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">may be found in any sheltered, dry spot--basement, shed or greenhouse-- </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">where an even temperature of 53 to 58 degrees can be maintained and </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">direct sunlight excluded. (Complete darkness is not necessary; </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">it is frequently so considered, but only because in dark places the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">temperature and moisture are apt to remain more even.) (2) The material </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">is fresh horse-manure, from which the roughest of the straw has been </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">shaken out. This is stacked in a compact pile and trampled--wetting </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">down if at all dry--to induce fermentation. This process must be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">repeated four or five times, care being required never to let the heap</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">dry out and burn; time for re-stacking being indicated by the heap's </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">steaming. At the second or third turning, add about one-fifth, in bulk, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">of light loam. (3) When the heat of the pile no longer rises above 100 </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">to 125 degrees (as indicated by a thermometer) put into the beds, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">tramping or beating very firmly, until about ten inches deep. </span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">When the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">temperature recedes to 90 degrees, put in the spawn. Each brick will </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">make a dozen or so pieces. Put these in three inches deep, and twelve </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">by nine inches apart, covering lightly. Then beat down the surface </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">evenly. After eight days, cover with two inches of light loam, firmly</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">compacted. This may be covered with a layer of straw or other light </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">material to help maintain an even degree of moisture, but should be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">removed as soon as the mushrooms begin to appear. Water only when the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">soil is very dry; better if water is warmed to about 60 degrees. When</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">gathering never leave stems in the bed as they are likely to breed </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">maggots. The crop should appear in six to eight weeks after spawning </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the bed.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Parsley:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This very easily grown little plant should have at </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">least a row or two in the seed-bed devoted to it. For use during </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">winter, a box or a few pots may be filled with cut-back roots and given </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">moderate temperature and moisture. If no frames are on hand, the plants </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">usually will do well in a sunny window.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Parsley seed is particularly slow in germinating. Use a few seeds of </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">turnip or carrot to indicate the rows, and have the bed very finely p</span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">repared.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Rhubarb:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">This is another of the standard vegetables which no </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">garden should be without. For the bed pick out a spot where the r</span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">oots can stay without interfering with the plowing and working of the</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">garden--next the asparagus bed, if in a good early location, will be as </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">good as any. One short row will supply a large family. The bed is set </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">either with roots or young plants, the former being the usual method.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">The ground should first be made as deep and rich as possible. If poor, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">dig out the rows, which should be four or five feet apart, to a depth </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">of two feet or more and work in a foot of good manure, refilling with </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the best of the soil excavated. Set the roots about four feet apart in </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">the row, the crowns being about four inches below the surface. No </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">stalks should be cut the first season; after that they will bear </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">abundantly many years.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In starting from seed, sow in March in frames or outside in April; when </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">well along-about the first of June--set out in rows, eighteen by twelve </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">inches. By the following April they will be ready for their permanent </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">position.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Manuring in the fall, as with asparagus, to be worked in in the spring, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">is necessary for good results. I know of no crop which so quickly </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">responds to liberal dressings of nitrate of soda, applied first just as </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">growth starts in in the spring. The seed stalks should be broken off as </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">fast as they appear, until late in the season.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Sea-Kale:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">When better known in this country, sea-kale will be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">given a place beside the asparagus and rhubarb, for, like them, it may </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">be used year after year. Many believe it superior in quality to either </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">asparagus or cauliflower.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">It is grown from either seed or pieces of the root, the former method, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">being probably the more satisfactory. Sow in April, in drills fourteen </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">inches apart, thinning to five or six. Transplant in the following </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">spring as described for rhubarb--but setting three feet apart each way. </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In the fall, after the leaves have fallen--and every succeeding fall-- </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">cover each crown with a shovelful of clean sand and then about eighteen </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">inches of earth, dug out from between the rows. This is to blanch the </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">spring<span><iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=fanoven-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=0967727308&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe></span> growth. After cutting, shovel off the earth and sand and enrich </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">with manure for the following season's growth.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><br />
</div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;"><strong>Spinach:</strong></span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">For the first spring crop of this good </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and wholesome vegetable, the seed is sown in September, </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">and carried over with a protection of hay </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">or other rough litter. Crops for summer and fall </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">are sown in successive plantings from April on, Long-Standing </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">being the best sort to sow after about May </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">15th. Seed of the New Zealand spinach should be </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">soaked several hours in hot water, before being </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">planted.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">For the home garden, I believe that the Swiss chard beet is destined to </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">be more popular, as it becomes known, than any of the spinaches. It is </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">sown in plantings from April on, but will yield leaves all season long; t</span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">hey are cut close to the soil, and in an almost incredibly short time t</span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">he roots have thrown up a new crop, the amount taken during the season </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">being wonderful.</span></span></div><div align="left" style="margin-bottom: 0cm;"><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Spinach wants a strong and very rich soil, and dressings of nitrate </span></span><span style="font-family: ArialMT, sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">show good results.</span></span><br />
</div><a href="http://www.freedigitalphotos.net/">Top right image: FreeDigitalPhotos.net</a>Lourdes Orzusa Santacruzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/05874912822332436853noreply@blogger.com