Horticulture, Recycling and Training in Schools and University

Schools adopt horticulture and recycling in their study plan

Some schools have implemented organic gardening to develop students' skills in the production of horticulture, pest control and recycling techniques.
The orchard technician , engineer L. H., said that students can develop skills to " cultural management and recycling techniques, so you can use and waste materials in containers, irrigation and pest control."
For pest control, students learn how to build traps made ​​of plastic bottles and some toxic or repellent to insects.

" We make traps for flying mosquito containing honey so the bug it is traped by this improvised glue.7

Another trap attracts bugs (crawling ones) with water and beer, and so they die  because of too much liquid," this is what the student in charge to set the traps.

The Professor of Natural Sciences said that students are sensitized about environmental care , recycling and may also carry some supplies for their homes."

Many of our students come from rural areas. I've Seen that when needed they can take products to their home serving as a great help for the family budget ," he says.

The director of the Educational unit, said that the mayor can provide material agriculture as part of the Organic Gardens and the school , with parent meeting can contribute to the construction of the garden.

" It is self-sustaining . With products sold you can buy more seeds to grow the garden. the products can be sold at local markets.
A beginner gardener student visit the garden every other day. " I never knew how to place the seeds. Each must go on a respective place . Stronger seeds can be chosen depending on their colors. I like also to plant and harvest ," said the high school student.

Gardening and Horticulture Training practice at UNR
The Black River National University , through the Extension Area Andina headquarters , reports that in the month of October will begin the course " Practical Gardening and Horticulture " by Silvana Eng Technician Alzogaray and Gardening Santiago Naón .

The course is open to the entire community and will be held in the premises of the UNRN and Production Area Andean Forest Service ( 10.5 km ) , for 11 monthly classes to develop during the year 2013/14 in Bariloche.
The course objective is to provide knowledge and skills concerned to produce , maintain and operate plants , ornamental and horticultural family scale through organic cultivation and maintenance of gardens professionalized.

Why You Should have your Own Garden

There are added affidavit to-day than ever before why the buyer of a baby place should accept his, or her, own vegetable garden.


The canicule of home weaving, home cheese-making, home meat-packing, are
gone. With a thousand and one other things that acclimated to be fabricated or done at home, they accept larboard the abode and followed the branch chimney. These things could be angry over to machinery.


The growing of vegetables cannot be so disposed of. Garden accoutrement accept been improved, but they are still the aforementioned old one-man affairs--doing one thing, one row at a time.



Labor is still the big factor--and that, taken in aggregate with the amount of alteration and administration such perishable being as garden produce, explains why the home agriculturalist can grow his own vegetables at beneath amount than he can shop for them.
That is a good actuality to remember.


But afterwards all, I agnosticism if best of us will attending at the amount abandoned after consulting the domiciliary budget. The big thing, the arresting feature of home agronomical is not that we may get our vegetables ten per cent cheaper, but that we can accept them one hundred per cent better.


Even the long-keeping sorts, like squash, potatoes and onions, are actual clearly added adorable appropriate from the home garden, fresh from the accouterment or the ground; but aback it comes to peas, and corn, and lettuce,--well, there is actually annihilation to analyze with the home garden ones, aggregate fresh, in the aboriginal askance sunlight, still gemmed with dew, still brittle and breakable and juicy, accessible to backpack every atom of agreeable quality, afterwards loss, to the dining table.


Stale, flat and barren indeed, afterwards these accept already been tasted, assume the limp, travel-weary, arenaceous things that are jounced about to us in the back of a barter . It is not in amount abandoned that makes home agronomical pay.


There is addition point: the bazaar agriculturalist has to abound the things that give the more good yield. He has to cede affection to quantity. You do not.


One cannot shop for Golden Bantam corn, or Mignonette lettuce, or Gradus peas in best markets. They are top quality, but they do not ample the market crate abundant times to the row to pay the bartering grower. If you cannot afford to accumulate a able agriculturalist there is abandoned one way to accept the best vegetables--grow your own!


And this brings us to the third, and what may be the best important reason why you should garden.
It is the cheapest, healthiest, keenest pleasure there is. Give me a brilliant garden application in the golden springtime, aback the copse are acrimonious out their fresh gowns, in all the various self-colored aerial grays and greens--strange how beautiful they are, in the aforementioned old abiding styles, isn't it?--give me seeds to watch as they acquisition the light, plants to tend as they booty authority in the fine, loose, affluent soil, and you may accept the added sports. And when you accept developed annoyed of their monotony, appear aback in summertime to alike the smallest garden, and you will acquisition in it, every day, a fresh botheration to be solved, a fresh attack to be agitated out, a fresh achievement to win.


Better food, added good health, added good living--all these the home garden offers you in abundance. And the amount is abandoned the amount of every worth-while thing--honest, airy accommodating work.


But abundant for now of the dream garden. Put bottomward your book. Put on
your old clothes , and let's go outdoors and attending the abode over, and pick out the best atom for that garden-patch of yours.

I hope you found an answer to our question Why You Should have your Own Garden?

Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden

In this post :
Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden

EXPOSURE , THE SOIL, DRAINAGE, SOIL ANTECEDENTS, OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

In chief aloft the armpit for the home vegetable garden it is able-bodied to actuate already and for all of the old abstraction that the garden "patch" charge be an animal atom in the home surroundings. If anxiously planned, anxiously buried and thoroughly cared for, it may be fabricated a admirable and harmonious feature of the accepted scheme, lending a blow of a able home that no shrubs, borders, or annual beds can anytime produce.

With this actuality in apperception we will not feel belted to any allotment of the premises alone because it is out of afterimage abaft the barn or garage. In the boilerplate moderate-sized abode there will not be abundant best as to and. It will be all-important to booty what is to be had and again do the very best that can be done with it. But there will apparently be a good deal of best as to, first, exposure, and second, convenience. Other things actuality equal, baddest a atom abreast at hand, accessible to access. It may seem that a aberration of alone a few hundred yards will beggarly nothing, but if one is depending abundantly aloft additional moments for alive in and for watching the garden--and in the growing of abounding vegetables the latter is about as important as the former--this amount of convenient access will be of abundant greater accent than is acceptable to be at first recognized. Not until you accept had to accomplish a dozen backward trips for abandoned seeds or tools, or gotten your anxiety assimilation wet by going out through the dew-drenched grass, will you apprehend absolutely what this may mean.

EXPOSURE

But the affair of aboriginal accent to accede in acrimonious out the spot that is to crop you beatitude and adorable vegetables all summer, or even for abounding years, is the exposure. Aces out the "earliest" atom you can find--a artifice angled a little to the south or east, that seems to catch sunshine aboriginal and authority it late, and that seems to be out of the direct aisle of the air-conditioned arctic and northeast winds. If a building, or alike an old fence, protects it from this direction, your garden will be helped forth wonderfully, for an aboriginal alpha is a abundant big factor toward success. If it is not already protected, a lath fence, or a hedge of some low-growing shrubs or adolescent evergreens, will add actual greatly to its usefulness. The accent of accepting such a protection or apartment is altogether underestimated by the amateur.

THE SOIL

The affairs are that you will not acquisition a atom of ideal garden soil ready for use anywhere aloft your place. But all except the actual worst of soils can be brought up to a actual aerial amount of productiveness-- especially such baby areas as home vegetable area require. Large tracts of adobe that are about authentic sand, and others so abundant and mucky that for centuries they lay uncultivated, accept frequently been brought, in the advance of alone a few years, to area they crop annually tremendous crops on a bartering basis. So do not be beat about your soil. Proper analysis of it is abundant added important, and a gardenpatch of boilerplate run-down,--or "never-brought-up" soil--will produce much added for the active and accurate agriculturalist than the richest spot will abound beneath boilerplate methods of cultivation.

The ideal garden adobe is a "rich, albino loam." And the actuality cannot be overemphasized that such soils usually are made, not found. Let us analyze that description a bit, for appropriate actuality we appear to the aboriginal of the four all-important factors of gardening--food. The others are cultivation, damp and temperature. "Rich" in the gardener's vocabulary agency abounding of bulb food; added than that--and this is a point of basic importance--it agency abounding of bulb aliment accessible to be used at once, all able and advance out on the garden table, or rather where growing things can at already accomplish use of it; or what we term, in one word, "available" bulb food. Practically no soils in longinhabited communities abide artlessly affluent abundant to aftermath big crops. They are fabricated rich, or kept rich, in two ways; first, by cultivation, which helps to change the raw bulb aliment stored in the soil into accessible forms; and second, by agriculture or abacus bulb food to the adobe from alfresco sources.

"Sandy" in the faculty actuality used, agency a adobe absolute enough particles of beach so that baptize will canyon through it afterwards abrogation it pasty and adhesive a few canicule afterwards a rain; "light" enough, as it is called, so that a handful, beneath accustomed conditions, will crumble and fall afar readily afterwards actuality apprenticed in the hand. It is not necessary that the adobe be albino in appearance, but it should be friable.

"Loam: a rich, brittle soil," says Webster. That hardly covers it, but it does call it. It is adobe in which the beach and adobe are in proper proportions, so that neither abundantly predominate, and usually dark in color, from agronomics and enrichment. Such a soil, alike to the green eye, aloof artlessly looks as if it would abound things. It is arresting how bound the accomplished concrete actualization of a allotment of well able arena will change. One instance came about aftermost fall in one of my gardens, area a band had independent onions for two years, and a little allotment bulging off from the average of this had been able for them for aloof one season. The blow had not accustomed any extra fertilizing or cultivation. When the garden was bashed up in the fall, all three sections were as audibly apparent as admitting they were separated by a fence. And I apperceive that abutting springs crop of carrots, before it is bashed under, will appearance the curve of bound just as plainly.

This, then, will accord you an abstraction of a acceptable garden soil. Perhaps in yours there will be too abundant sand, or too abundant clay. That will be a disadvantage, but one which activity and backbone will anon overcome to a abundant extent--by the methods you will be acquirements in Chapter VIII.

DRAINAGE

There is, however, one added affair you charge attending out for in selecting your garden site, and that is drainage. Dig bottomward eight or twelve inches after you accept best out a favorable spot, and appraise the sub-soil. This is the additional strata, usually of altered arrangement and blush from the affluent apparent soil, and harder than it. If you acquisition a albino or gravelly bed, no amount how chicken and poor it looks, you accept chosen the appropriate spot. But if it is a stiff, abundant clay, abnormally a blue clay, you will accept to either cesspool it or be agreeable with a actual late garden--that is, unless you are at the top of a altitude or on a slope. Chapter VII contains added suggestions in attention to this problem.

SOIL ANTECEDENTS

There was a added acumen for advertence that band of onion ground. It is a actual applied analogy of what aftermost year's administration of the soil agency to this year's garden. If you can aces out a spot, alike if it is not the best adorable in added ways, that has been able-bodied enriched or able for a year or two previous, booty that for this year's garden. And in the concurrently accept the atom on which you intend to make your abiding vegetable garden thoroughly "fitted," and abound there this year a crop of potatoes or candied corn, as appropriate in Chapter IX. Then abutting year you will accept altitude aloof appropriate to accord your vegetables a abundant start.

OTHER CONSIDERATIONS

There are added things of accessory accent but account considering, such as the appearance of your garden plot, for instance. The added nearly rectangular, the added acceptable it will be to assignment and the added easily kept apple-pie and neat. Accept it ample enough, or at atomic accessible on two ends, so that a rototiller can be acclimated in agronomics and tilling. And if by any agency you can accept it aural ability of an able accumulation of water, that will be a amazing advice in seasons of abiding drought. Then again, if you accept arena enough, lay off two plots so that you can take advantage of the convenance of rotation, alternating grass, potatoesor blah with the vegetable garden. Of advance it is accessible to practice crop circling to some admeasurement aural the banned of alike the small vegetable garden, but it will be abundant better, if possible, to rotate the absolute garden-patch.

All these things, then, one has to accumulate in apperception in acrimonious the spot best ill-fitted for the home vegetable garden. It should be, if possible, of acceptable access; it should accept a balmy acknowledgment and be well enriched, able-bodied agitated soil, not too ablaze nor too heavy, and by all means able-bodied drained. If it has been thoroughly able for a year or two previous, so abundant the better. If it is abreast a accumulation of water, so situated that it can be at atomic bashed and tilled with a rototiller, and ample abundant to acquiesce the garden to be confused every added year or two, still added the better.

Fill all of these requirements that you can, and again by demography full advantage of the advantages you have, you can abatement the disadvantages. Afterwards all it is careful, assiduous work, added than natural advantages, that will acquaint the story; and a acceptable garden does not grow--it is made.

Requisites of the Home Vegetable Garden

Lungwort:define Lungwort Pulmonaria species, growing in shade gardens and uses

Lungwort:define

Lungwort Pulmonaria

(Pulmonaria species)

These clump-forming perennials can be grown as case plants or as a groundcover in partial to abounding shade. The foliage of best breed and varieties is blooming with white or argent spots. However, some of the newer varieties accept essentially silver leaves with blooming margins.

In accession to the adorable foliage, lungworts additionally aftermath white, pink, or dejected fl owers in spring. The accepted name refers to the declared value

Growing, Know How

For those beginner gardeners. - Grow this bulb in adumbration or allotment adumbration conditions. In abounding sun, you ability acquisition Lungworth a little billowing although it will survive.

Give Lungwort a appropriate adobe with able summertime moisture. This is not a bulb for the dry adumbration or it will artlessly atrophy away. Do not accord it adobe clay as it will rot over the winter. Abound it in a acceptable "forest-soil" one that has a aerial absorption of amoebic amount (dig in admixture and/or peat moss) and approved waterings.

What you may acquisition with Lungwort is that if you corruption it in any way, it will artlessly achromatize away. It will appear aback the afterward spring! (so don't accord up hope) It responds to corruption (too hot, too abundant sun etc) by disappearing.

Propagation and Hardiness

The easiest for the home garden is to bisect Lungwort in aboriginal bounce or in fall.

Lungwort is able appropriate bottomward to USDA area 2/3 (2 if adequate in the winter)

Varieties

There are some actual absorbing Lungwort varieties in garden centers now and the leaves appear in a advanced array of shapes, shades of blooming as able-bodied as variegations.

This is a acceptable aggregate bulb with hosta because of the choices in blade variations.

**Pulmonaria 'Baby Blue' This is the tightest, best compact, mounded anatomy to date and it won't abound to breach in the center. Flowers age to a admirable babyish blue.

**Pulmonaria 'Majeste' Solid silvery-gray leaves with a actual attenuated blooming margin. In backward spring, ablaze blush buds pop accessible to acknowledge darker bluish-pink annual bells.

**Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Ice' Long, arctic blooming leaves belted in fair with raspberry blush annual clusters accommodate a abrupt contrast, and absolutely assume to ablaze this bulb up.

**Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash' raspberry-pink annual clusters ball amid the aphotic green, silver-spotted leaves in backward spring. One of the added cocked growing addiction and abounding bloomers.

**Pulmonaria 'Samourai' Dejected flowers are produced in backward spring. The continued leaves are authentic silver.

**Pulmonaria 'Silver Shimmers' Clusters of almost large, steel-blue flowers are abeyant aloft the long, bouncing foliage which charcoal low. The leaves are heavily saturated with silver.

**Pulmonaria longifolia 'Bertram Anderson' Gentian dejected flowers arising from fuchia buds in backward spring. Like added P. longifolia, 'Bertram Anderson' has long, attenuated leaves heavily spotted with silver.

**Pulmonaria 'Diana Clare' angel blooming leaves biconcave in argent accumulate their blush all division long. Their long, acicular leaves adverse able-bodied with the violet-blue flowers

**Pulmonaria longifolia 'Roy Davidson' mounded foliage of 'Roy Davidson' is heavily spotted with argent and are continued and narrow. One of the abate varieties.

**Pulmonaria officinalis 'Sissinghurst White' White flowering, the leaves are brindled with silver.

**Pulmonaria saccharata 'Mrs. Moon' an earlier variety, it has mounded, argent spotted foliage. In backward spring, magenta-pink buds accessible to ablaze dejected bell-shaped flowers.

Lungwort is a accomplished adumbration garden bulb and I confess, one of my favorites.

Beginner Vegetable gardening - General guidance

Beginner Vegetable Gardening

It is with an activity in which there is article of abhorrence that I close

these pages--fear that abounding of those little things which become second

nature to the agriculturalist of plants and assume unimportant, but which

sometimes are aloof the things that the abecedarian wants to apperceive about,

may accept been aback larboard out. In every operation described,

however, I accept approved to acknowledgment all all-important details. I would urge

the reader, nevertheless, to abstraction as thoroughly as accessible all the

garden problems with which he will acquisition himself confronted and to this

end acclaim that he apprehend several of the abounding garden books which are

now to be had. It will be to his advantage to see alike the same

subjects presented afresh from added credibility of view. The added familiar

he can accomplish himself, both in approach and in practice, with all the

multitude of operations which avant-garde agronomical involves, the

greater the success he will attain.

Personally, the added I accept gone into the growing of things--and

that has now become my business as able-bodied as my pleasure--the more

absorbingly absorbing I acquisition it. Anniversary season, anniversary crop, offers its

own problems and a accolade for the actual band-aid of them. It is a

work which, alike to the beginner, presents the befalling of deducting

new conclusions, aggravating fresh experiments, authoritative fresh discoveries. It is

a assignment which offers affable and advantageous amusement to the abounding whose

days charge be, for the best part, spent in appointment or shop; and it gives

very abundant advice in the world-old botheration of authoritative both ends

meet.

Let the garden abecedarian not be aghast if he does not succeed, for

the aboriginal division or two, or possibly three, with aggregate he plants.

There is usually a preventable acumen for the failure, and studious

observation will acknowledge it. With the avant-garde success in the application

of insecticides and fungicides, and the addendum of the convenance of

irrigation, the accountable of agronomical begins to be bargain to a

scientific and (what is added to the point) a abiding basis. We are getting

control of the ambiguous factors. All this affects first, perhaps, the

person who grows for profit, but with our present advanced apportionment of

every fresh abstraction and analysis in such matters, it charge ability anon to

every alien home garden application which is cared for by a wide-awake

gardener.

Such a person, from the actuality that he or she is account a fresh garden

book, I booty the clairvoyant to be. I achievement this volume, abridged admitting it

is, has added to your armamentarium of applied garden information; that it

will advice to abound that accepted additional brand of grass. I accept alone to

add, as I about-face afresh to the problems cat-and-mouse for me in acreage and under

glass, that I ambition you all success in your work--the authoritative of better

gardens in America.
Beginner Vegetable Gardening

Calendar of Home Vegetable Gardening for all the year, Planting plan

Planting Plan. The importance of accurately planning the work ahead was emphasized I mentioned there the check list used to make sure that everything would be carried out, or started ahead at the proper time--as with the sowing

of seeds. The following garden operations, given month by month, will serve not only as a timely reminder of things to be done, but as the basis for such a check list.

JANUARY

Probably one of the good resolutions made with the New Year was a better garden for the coming summer. The psychologists claim that the only hope for resolutions is to nail them down at the start with an action--that seems to have more effect in making an actual impression on the brain. So start the good work along by sending at once for several of the leading seed catalogs.

Planting Plan. Make out a list of what you are going to want this year, and then make your Planting Plan.

Seeds. Order your seed. Do it now while the seed store's stock is full; while he is not rushed; while there is ample time to rectify mistakes if any occur.

Manures. Altogether too few amateur gardeners realize the great importance of procuring early every pound of manures, of any kind, to be had. It often may be had cheaply at this time of year, and by composting, adding phosphate, and several turnings, if you have any place under cover where it can be collected, you can double its value before spring.

Frames. Even at this season of the year do not fail to air the frames well on warm days. Practically no water will be needed, but if the soil does dry out sufficiently to need it, apply early on a bright morning.

Onions. It will not be too early, this month, to sow onions for spring transplanting outside. Get a packet each of Prizetaker, AilsaCraig, Mammoth Silver-skin, or Gigantic Gibraltar. Lettuce. Sow lettuce for spring crop under glass or in frames.

Fruit. This is a good month to prune grapes, currants, gooseberries and peach trees, to avoid the rush that will come later.

FEBRUARY

Hotbeds. A little early for making them until after the 15th, but get all your material ready--manure, selected and stacked; lumber ready for any new ones; sash all in good repair. Starting Seeds. First part of the month, earliest planting of cabbage, cauliflower and lettuce should be made; and two to four weeks later for main early crop. At this time also, beets and earliest celery.

Tools. Overhaul them all now; order repairs. Get new catalogs and study new improvements and kinds you do not possess. Poles and brush. Whether you use the old-fashioned sort (now harder to obtain than they used to be) or make your "poles" and use wire trellis for peas, attend to it now. Fruit. Finish up last month's work, if not all done. Also examine plum and cherry trees for black-knot.

MARCH

Hotbeds. If not made last of February, should be made at once. Some of the seed sown last month will be ready for transplanting and going into the frames; also lettuce sown in January. Radish and carrot

(forcing varieties) may be sown in alternating rows. Give much more air; water on bright mornings; be careful not to have them caught by suddenly cold nights after a bright warm day.

Seed-sowing under glass. Last sowing of early cabbage and early summer cabbages (like Succession), lettuce, rhubarb (for seedling plants), cauliflower, radish, spinach, turnip, and early tomatoes; towards last of month, late tomatoes and first of peppers, and eggplant. Sweet peas often find a place in the vegetable garden; start a few early, to set out later; they will do better than if started outside. Start tomatoes for growing in frames. For early potatoes sprout in sand.

Planting, outside. If an early spring, and the ground is sufficiently dry, sow onions, lettuce, beet, radish, (sweet peas), smooth peas, early carrot, cabbage, leek, celery (main crop), and turnip. Set out new beds of asparagus, rhubarb and sea-kale (be sure to try a few plants of the latter). Manure and fork up old beds of above. Fruit. Prune now, apple, plum and pear trees.

APRIL

Now the rush is on! Plan your work, and work your plan. But do not yield to the temptation to plant more than you can look out for later on. Remember it is much easier to sow seeds than to pull out weeds.

The Frames. Air! water! and do not let the green plant-lice or the white-fly get a ghost of a chance to start. Almost every day the glass should be lifted entirely off. Care must be taken never to let the soil or flats become dried out; toward the end of the month, if it is bright and warm, begin watering towards evening instead of in early morning, as you should have been doing through the winter. If proper attention is given to ventilation and moisture, there will not be much danger from the green plant-louse (aphis) and white-fly, but at the first sign of one fight them to a finish. Use kerosene emulsion, tobacco dust, tobacco preparations, or Aphine. Seed sowing. Under glass: tomato, egg-plant and peppers. On sod: corn, cucumbers, melons, early squash, lima beans.

Planting, outside. Onions, lettuce, beet, etc., if not put in last month; also parsnip, salsify, parsley, wrinkled peas, endive. Toward the end of this month (or first part of next) second plantings of these. Set out plants of early cabbage (and the cabbage group) lettuce, onion sets, sprouted potatoes, beets, etc.

In the Garden. Cultivate between rows of sowed crops; weed out y hand just as soon as they are up enough to be seen; watch for cutworms and root-maggots.

Fruit. Thin out all old blackberry canes, dewberry and raspberry canes (if this was not done, as it should have been, directly after the fruiting season last summer). Be ready for first spraying of earlyblossoming

trees. Set out new strawberry beds, small fruits and fruit trees.

MAY

Keep ahead of the weeds. This is the month when those warm, south, driving rains often keep the ground too wet to work for days at a time, and weeds grow by leaps and bounds. Woe betide the gardener ose rows of sprouting onions, beets, carrots, etc., once become green with wild turnip and other rapid-growing intruders. Clean cultivation and slight hilling of plants set out are also essential.

The Frames. These will not need so much attention now, but care must be taken to guard tender plants, such as tomatoes, egg-plant and peppers, against sudden late frosts. The sash may be left off most of the time. Water copiously and often.

Planting, outside. First part of the month: early beans, early corn, okra and late potatoes may be put in; and first tomatoes set out --even if a few are lost--they are readily replaced. Finish setting out cabbage, lettuce, cauliflower, beets, etc., from frames. Latter part of month, if warm: corn, cucumbers, some of sods from frames and early squash as traps where late crop is to be planted or set.

Fruit. Be on time with first sprayings of late-blossoming fruits--apples, etc. Rub off from grape vines the shoots that are not wanted.

JUNE

Frequent, shallow cultivation! Firm seeds in dry soil. Plant wax beans, lima beans, pole beams, melons, corn, etc., and successive crops of lettuce, radish, etc. Top-dress growing crops that need special manure (such as nitrate of soda on onions). Prune tomatoes, and cut out some foliage for extra early tomatoes. Toward end of month set celery and late cabbage. Also sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for early fall crops. Spray where

necessary. Allow asparagus to grow to tops. Fruit. Attend to spraying fruit trees and currants and

gooseberries. Make pot-layers of strawberries for July setting.

JULY

Maintain frequent, shallow cultivation. Set out late cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, leeks and celery. Sow beans, beets, corn, etc., for late fall crops. Irrigate where needed.

Fruit. Pinch back new canes of blackberry, dewberry and raspberry. Rub off second crop of buds on grapes. Thin out if too many bunches; also on plums, peaches and other fruit too thick, or touching.

Pot-layered strawberries may be set out.

AUGUST

Keep the garden clean from late weeds--especially purslane, the hotweather weed pest, which should be always removed from the garden and disposed of or rotted down.

Sow spinach, rutabaga turnip, bush beans and peas for last fall crop. During first part of month, late celery may still be put out. Sow lettuce for early fall crop, in frames. First lot of endive should be tied up for blanching.

Fruit. Strawberries may be set, and pot-layered plants, if wanted to bear a full crop the following season, should be put in. Thin out and bag grapes.

SEPTEMBER

Frames. Set in lettuce started in August. Sow radishes and successive crop of lettuce. Cooler weather begins to tell on lateplanted crops. Give cabbage, cauliflower, etc., deeper cultivation.

"Handle" celery wanted for early use. Harvest and store onions. Get squash under cover before frost. From the 15th to 25th sow spinach, onions, borecole for wintering over. Sow down thickly to rye all plots as fast as cleared of summer crops; or plow heavy land in ridges. Attend to draining.

Fruit. Trees may be set. Procure barrels for storing fruit in winter. At harvest time it is often impossible to get them at any price.

OCTOBER

Get ready for winter. Blanch rest of endive. Bank celery, to be used before Christmas, where it is. Gather tomatoes, melons, etc., to keep as long as possible. Keep especially clean and well cultivated all crops to be wintered over. Late in the month store cabbage and cauliflower; also beets, carrots, and other root crops. Get boxes, barrels, bins, sand or sphagnum moss ready beforehand, to save time in packing.

Clean the garden; store poles, etc., worth keeping over; burn everything else that will not rot; and compost everything that will. Fruit. Harvest apples, etc. Pick winter pears just before hard frosts, and store in dry dark place.

NOVEMBER

Frames. Make deep hotbeds for winter lettuce and radishes. Construct frames for use next spring. See that vegetables in basement, bins, and sheds are safe from freezing. Trench or store celery for spring use. Take in balance of all root crops if any remain in the ground, except, of course, parsnip and salsify for spring use. Put

rough manure on asparagus and rhubarb beds. Get mulch ready for spinach, etc., to be wintered over, if they occupy exposed locations. Fruit. Obtain marsh or salt hay for mulching strawberries. Cut out old wood of cane-fruits--blackberries, etc., if not done after gathering fruit. Look over fruit trees for borers.

DECEMBER

Cover celery stored last month, if trenched out-of-doors. Use only light, loose material at first, gradually covering for winter. Put mulch on spinach, etc.

Fruit. Mulch strawberries. Prune grape-vines; make first application of winter sprays for fruit trees.

AND THEN

Set about procuring manures of all kinds from every available source. Remember that anything which will rot will add to the value of your manure pile. Muck, lime, old plastering, sods, weeds (earth and all), street, stable and yard sweepings--all these and  a good Calendar of Home Vegetable Gardening - Planting Plan will increase your garden successes of next year.

A CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS
PVAE62387MCX 



The Grape - Pruning and care

THE GRAPE

No garden is so small that there cannot be found in it room for three or four grape-vines; no fruit is more certain, and few more delicious.

If it is convenient, a situation fully exposed to the sun, and sloping slightly, will be preferable. But any good soil, provided only it is rich and thoroughly drained, will produce good results. If a few vines

are to be set against walls, or in other out-of-the-way places, prepare the ground for them by excavating a good-sized hole, putting in a foot of coal cinders or other drainage material, and refilling with good

heavy loam, enriched with old, well rotted manure and half a peck of wood ashes. For culture in the garden, such special preparation will not be necessary--although, if the soil is not in good shape, it will be advisable to slightly enrich the hills.

One or two-year roots will be the most satisfactory to buy. They may be set in either fall or spring--the latter time, for New York or north, being generally preferable. When planting, the cane should be cut back to three or four eyes, and the roots should also be shortened back-- usually about one-third. Be sure to make the hole large enough, when setting, to let the roots spread naturally, and work the soil in well around them with the fingers. Set them in firmly, by pressing down hard with the ball of the foot after firming by hand. They are set about six feet apart.

GRAPE PRUNING

As stated above, the vine is cut back, when planting, to three or four eyes. The subsequent pruning--and the reader must at once distinguish between pruning, and training, or the way in which the vines are placed--will determine more than anything else the success of the undertaking. Grapes depend more upon proper pruning than any other fruit or vegetable in the garden. Two principles must be kept track of

in this work. First principle: the annual crop is borne only on canes of the same year's growth, springing from wood of the previous season's growth. Second principle: the vine, if left to itself, will set three or four times the number of bunches it can properly

mature. As a result of these facts, the following system of pruning has been developed and must be followed for sure and full-sized crops.

(1) At time of planting, cut back to three or four eyes, and after these sprout leave only one (or two) of them, which should be staked up.

(2) Following winter (December to March), leave only one cane and cut this back to three or four eyes.

(3) Second growing season, save only two canes, even if several sprout, and train these to stake or trellis. These two vines, or arms, branching from the main stem, form the foundation for the one-year canes that bear the fruit. However, to prevent the vine's setting too much fruit (see second principle above) these arms must be cut back in order to limit the number of fruit-bearing canes that will spring from them, therefore:

(4) Second winter pruning, cut back these arms to eight or ten buds-- and we have prepared for the first crop of fruit, about forty bunches, as the fruiting cane from each bud will bear two bunches on the average. However these main arms will not bear fruiting-canes another year (see first principle above) and therefore:

(5) At the third winter pruning, (a) of the canes that bore fruit, only the three or four nearest the main stem or trunk are left; (b) these are cut back to eight or ten buds each, and (c) everything else is <ruthlessly cut away.

Each succeeding year the same system is continued, care being taken to rub off, each May, buds or sprouts starting on the main trunk or arms.

The wood, in addition to being cut back, must be well ripened; and the wood does not ripen until after the fruit. It therefore sometimes becomes necessary to cut out some of the bunches in order to hasten the

ripening of the rest. At the same time the application of some potassium fertilizer will be helpful. If the bunches do not ripen up quickly and pretty nearly together, the vine is overloaded and being damaged for

the following year.

The matter of pruning being mastered, the question of training is one of individual choice. Poles, trellises, arbors, walls--almost anything may be used. The most convenient system, however, and the one I would

strongly recommend for practical home gardening for results, is known as the (modified) Kniffen system. It is simplicity itself. A stout wire is stretched five or six feet above the ground; to this the single main trunks of the vine run up, and along it are stretched the two or three arms from which the fruiting-canes hang down. They occupy the least possible space, so that garden crops may be grown practically on the same ground. I have never seen it tried, but where garden space is limited I should think that the asparagus bed and the Kniffen grapearbor just described could be combined to great advantage by placing the vines, in spaces left for them, directly in the asparagus row. Of course the ground would have to be manured for two crops. A 2-8-10

fertilizer is right for the grapes. If using stable manure, apply also potassium fertilizer.

If the old-fashioned arbor is used, the best way is to run the main trunk up over it and cut the laterals back each year to two or three eyes.

The most serious grape trouble which the home gardener is likely to encounter is the black-rot. Where only a few grapes are grown, the simplest way of overcoming this disease is to get a few dozen cheap manila store-bags and fasten one, with a couple of ten-penny nails, over each bunch. Cut the mouth of the bag at sides and edges, cover the bunch, fold the flaps formed over the cane, and fasten.

 They are put on after the bunches are well formed and hasten the ripening of the fruit, as well as protecting it. On a larger scale, spraying will have to be resorted to. Besides the spraying, all trimmed- off wood, old leaves and twigs, withered bunches and grapes, or "mummies," and refuse of every description, should be carefully raked up in the spring and disposed of. Also give clean culture and keep the main stems clean.

The grape completes the list of the small fruits worth while to the average home gardener. If you have not already experimented with them, do not let your garden go any longer without them. They are all easily

obtained, and a very limited number will keep the family table well supplied with healthy delicacies, which otherwise, in their best varieties and condition, could not be had at all. The various operations of setting out, pruning and spraying will soon become as familiar as those in the vegetable garden. There is no reason why every home garden should not have its few rows of small fruits, yielding their delicious harvests in abundance.

The Gooseberry - Enemies and Varieties

THE GOOSEBERRY

This is accustomed about the aforementioned analysis as the currant. It is even more important that it should be accustomed the coolest, airiest, location possible, and the best clammy soil. Even a partially black situation will do, but in such situations added affliction charge be taken to guard against the mildew--which is mentioned below. Summer mulching is, of course, of appropriate benefit.

In pruning the gooseberry, it is best to cut out to a actual few, or even to a distinct stem. Keep the arch open, to acquiesce chargeless apportionment of air. The admeasurement of pruning will accomplish a abundant aberration in the admeasurement of the fruit; if bake-apple of the better admeasurement is wanted, clip actual close. All branches angled to the arena should be removed. Keep the branches, as abundant as possible, from affecting anniversary other.

GOOSEBERRY ENEMIES

The currant-worm attacks the gooseberry also, and is effectively handled by the spraying mentioned above.

The abundant agitation in growing gooseberries auspiciously is the powdery mildew--a dirty, blanched fungous advance accoutrement both bake-apple and leaves.

It is abnormally annihilative of the adopted varieties, the ability of which, until the appearance of the potassium sulfide spray, was being practically abandoned. Use 1 oz. of potassium sulfide (liver of sulphur) to 2 gals. water, and mix aloof afore using. Aerosol thoroughly three or four times a month, from the time the blossoms are openinguntil bake-apple is ripe.

GOOSEBERRY VARIETIES

Of the built-in gooseberries--which are the hardiest, Downing and Houghton's Seedling are best used. Industry is an English variety, doing able-bodied here. Golden Prolific, Champion, and Columbus, are other

good adopted sorts, but alone back the bane is auspiciously fought off.

Currants - Pruning, Enemies and Varieties

The currant and gooseberry are very similar in their cultural requirements. A deep, rich and moist soil is the best--approaching a clayey loam. There need be no fear of giving too much manure, but it should be well rotted. Plenty of room, plenty of air, plenty of moisture, secured where necessary by a soil or other mulch in hot dry weather, are essential to the production of the best fruit.

The currant will stand probably as much abuse as any plant the home gardener will have to deal with. Stuck in a corner, smothered in sod, crowded with old wood, stripped by the currant-worm, it still struggles

along from year to year, ever hopefully trying to produce a meager crop of poor fruit. But these are not the sort you want. Although it is so tough, no fruit will respond to good care more quickly.

To have it do well, give it room, four or five feet each way between bushes. Manure it liberally; give it clean cultivation, and as the season gets hot and dry, mulch the soil, if you would be certain of a full-sized, full-flavored crop. Two bushes, well cared for, will yield more than a dozen half-neglected ones. Anywhere north of New York a full crop every year may be made almost certain.

PRUNING CURRANTS

Besides careful cultivation, to insure the best of fruit it is necessary to give some thought to the matter of pruning. The most convenient and the most satisfactory way is to keep it in the bush form. Set the plants singly, three or four feet apart, and so cut the

new growth, which is generously produced, as to retain a uniform bush shape, preferably rather open in the center.

The fruit is produced on wood two or more years old. Therefore cut out branches either when very small, or not until four or five years later, after it has borne two or three crops of fruit. Therefore, in pruning currants, take out (1) superfluous young growth; (2) old hard wood (as new wood will produce better fruit); and (3) all weak, broken, dead or diseased shoots; (4) during summer, if the tips of the young growths kept for fruiting are pinched off, they will ripen up much better-- meaning better fruit when they bear; (5) to maintain a good form, the whole plant may be cut back (never more than one-third) in the fall.

In special situations it may be advisable to train the currant to one or a few main stems, as against a wall; this can be done, but it is less convenient. Also it brings greater danger from the currant-borer.

The black currant, used almost entirely for culinary or preserving purposes, is entirely different from the red and white ones. They are much larger and should be put five to six feet apart. Some of the fruit is borne on one-year-old wood, so the shoots should not be cut back. Moreover, old wood bears as good fruit as the new growth, and need not be cut out, unless the plant is getting crowded, for several years. As the wood is much heavier and stronger than the other currants, it is advisable gradually to develop the black currants into the tree form.

ENEMIES OF THE CURRANT

The worst of these is the common currant-worm. When he appears, which will be indicated by holes eaten in the lower leaves early in spring, generally before the plants bloom, spray at once. For the borer, cut and

dispose of every infested shoot. Examine the bushes in late fall, and those in which the borers are at work will usually have a wilted appearance and be of a brownish color.

VARIETIES OF CURRANTS

Red Dutch, while older and smaller than some of the newer varieties, is hardier and not so likely to be hurt by the borer. London Market, Fay's Prolific, Perfection (new), and Prince Albert, are good sorts. White Grape is a good white. Naples, and Lee's Prolific are good black sorts.

Varieties of berries How many are there?

New strawberries are being introduced constantly; also, they vary greatly in their adaptation to locality. Therefore it is difficult to advise as to what varieties to plant. Once again a catalog from a reputable

nursery will prove invaluable in selecting the right varieties.

The blackberry, dewberry and raspberry are all treated in much the same way. The soil should be well drained, but if a little clayey, so much the better. They are planned preferably in early spring, and set from

three or four to six or seven feet apart, according to the variety.

They should be put in firmly. Set the plants in about as deep as they have been growing, and cut the canes back to six or eight inches. If fruit is wanted the same season as bushes are set, get a few extra plants--they cost but a few cents--and cut back to two feet or so.

Plants fruited the first season are not likely to do well the following year. Two plants may be set in a place and one fruited. If this one is exhausted, then little will be lost. Give clean cultivation frequently enough to maintain a soil mulch, as it is very necessary to retain all the moisture possible. Cultivation, though frequent, should be very shallow as soon as the plants get a good start. In very hot seasons, if the ground is clean, a summer mulch of old hay, leaves or rough manure will be good for the same purpose.

In growing, a good stout stake is used for each plant, to which the canes are tied with some soft material. Or, a stout wire is strung the length of the row and the canes fastened to this--a better way, however, being to string two wires, one on either side of the row. Another very important matter is that of pruning. The plants if left to themselves will throw up altogether too much wood. This must be cut out to four or five of the new canes and all the canes that have borne fruit should be cut and burned each season as soon as through fruiting.

The canes, for instance, that grow in 2009 will be those to fruit in 2010 after which they should be immediately removed. The new canes, if they are to be self-supporting, as sometimes grown, should be cut back when three or four feet high.

It is best, however, to give support. In the case of those varieties which make fruiting side-shoots, as most of the black raspberries (blackcaps) do, the canes should be cut back at two to three feet, and it is well also to cut back these side shoots one-third to one-half, early in the spring.

In cold sections (New York or north of it) it is safest to give winter protection by "laying down" the canes and giving them a mulch of rough material. Having them near the ground is in itself a great protection, as they will not be exposed to sun and wind and will sometimes be covered with snow.

For mulching, the canes are bent over nearly at the soil and a shovelful of earth thrown on the tips to hold them down; the entire canes may then be covered with soil or rough manure, but do not put it on until freezing weather is at hand. If a mulch is used, it must be taken off before growth starts in the spring.

THE BLACKBERRY

The large-growing sorts are set as much as six by eight feet apart, though with careful staking and pruning they may be comfortably handled in less space. The smaller sorts need about four by six. When growth

starts, thin out to four or five canes and pinch these off at about three feet; or, if they are to be put on wires or trellis, they may be cut when tied up the following spring. Cultivate, mulch and prune as suggested above.

Blackberries will do well on a soil a little dry for raspberries and they do not need it quite so rich, as in this case the canes do not ripen up sufficiently by fall, which is essential for good crops. If growing rank they should be pinched back in late August. When tying up in the spring, the canes should be cut back to four or five feet and the laterals to not more than eighteen inches.

Blackberry enemies do not do extensive injury, as a rule, in wellcared- for beds. The most serious are:

(1) the rust or blight, for which there is no cure but carefully pulling and disposing of the plants as fast as infested;

(2) the blackberry-bush borer, which burn infested canes; and

(3) the recently introduced bramble flea-louse, which resembles the green plant-louse or aphids except that it is a brisk jumper, like the flea-beetle. The leaves twist and curl up in summer and do not drop off in the fall. On cold early mornings, or wet weather, while the insects are sluggish, cut all infested shoots, collecting them in a tight box, and dispose.

BLACKBERRY VARIETIES

As with the other small fruits, so many varieties are being introduced that it is difficult to give a list of the best for home use.

THE DEWBERRY

This is really a trailing blackberry and needs the same culture, except

that the canes are naturally slender and trailing and therefore, for

garden culture, must have support. They may be staked up, or a barrel

hoop, supported by two stakes, makes a good support. In ripening, the

dewberry is ten to fourteen days earlier than the blackberry, and for

that reason a few plants should be included in the berry patch.

RASPBERRY

The black and the red types are distinct in flavor, and both should be grown. The blackcaps need more room, about three by six or seven feet; for the reds three by five feet will be sufficient. The blackcaps, and

a few of the reds, throw out fruiting side branches, and should have the main canes cut back at about two and a half feet to encourage the growth of these laterals, which, in the following spring, should be cut back

to about one-third their length. The soil for raspberries should be clayey if possible, and moist, but not wet.

RASPBERRY ENEMIES

The orange rust, which attacks the blackberry also, is a serious trouble. Pull up and dispose of all infested plants at once, as no good remedy has as yet been found. The cut-worm, especially in newly set beds, may sometimes prove destructive of the sprouting young canes. The raspberry-borer is the larva of a small, flattish, red-necked beetle, which bores to the center of the canes during summer growth, and kills

them. Cut and dispose.

RASPBERRY VARIETIES

Of the blackcaps, Gregg, McCormick, Munger, Cumberland, Columbian, Palmer (very early), and Eureka (late), are all good sorts.

Reds: Cuthbert, Cardinal (new), Turner, Reliance, The King (extra early), Loudon (late). Yellow: Golden Queen.

Picture on top right by Maggie Smith / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

Berries and Small Fruits - Setting, Cultivation and mulching

Besides the tree-fruits discussed in the preceding chapters, there is another class which should be represented in every home garden-- the berries and small fruits. These have the advantage of occupying

much less room than the former do and are therefore available where the others are not.

The methods of giving berries proper cultivation are not so generally known as the methods used with vegetables. Otherwise there is no reason why a few of each should not be included in every garden of average size. Their requirements are not exacting: the amount of skill, or rather of attention, required to care for them is not more than that required by the ordinary vegetables. In fact, once they are well established they will demand less time than the annual vegetables. Of these small fruits the most popular and useful are: the strawberry, the blackberry, dewberry and raspberry, the currant, gooseberry and grape.

The strawberry is the most important, and most amateurs attempt its culture--many, however, with indifferent success. This is due, partly at least, to the fact that many methods are advocated by successful growers, and that the beginner is not likely to pick out one and stick to it; and further, that he is led to pay more attention to how many layers he will have, and at what distance he will set the plants, than to proper selection and preparation of soil and other vital matters.

The soil should be well drained and rich--a good garden soil being suitable. The strawberries should not follow sod or corn. If yard manure is used it should be old and well rotted, so as to be as free as possible from weed seeds. potassium, in some form (see Fertilizers) should be added. The bed should be thoroughly prepared, so that the plants, which need careful transplanting, may take hold at once. A good sunny

exposure is preferable, and a spot where no water will collect is essential.

The plants are grown from "layers." They are taken in two ways: (1) by rooting the runners in the soil; and (2) by layering in pots. In the former method they are either allowed to root themselves, or, which gives decidedly better results, by selecting vines from strong plants and pushing them lightly down into the soil where the new crown is to be formed. In the second method, two-inch or three-inch pots are used, filling these with soil from the bed and plunging, or burying, them level with the surface, just below where the crown is to be formed, and holding the vine in place with a small stone, which serves the additional purpose of marking where the pot is. In either case these layers are made after the fruiting season.

SETTING THE PLANTS

In using the soil-rooted layers, it is generally more satisfactory to set them out in spring, as soon as the ground can be worked, although they are sometimes set in early fall--August or September--when the ground is in very good condition, so that a good growth can at once be made. Care should be used in transplanting. Have the bed fresh; keep the plants out of the soil as short a time as possible; set the plants

in straight, and firm the soil; set just down to the crown--do not cover it. If the soil is dry, or the season late, cut off all old leaves before planting; also shorten back the roots about one-third and be sure not to crowd them when setting, for which purpose a trowel, not a dibble, should be used if the condition of the ground makes the use of any implement necessary. If so dry that water must be used, apply it in the bottom of the hole. If very hot and dry, shade for a day or two.

METHODS OF GROWING

Here I will describe the three systems most valuable for the home garden:

(1) the hill, (2) the matted row, and (3) the pot-layered.

(1) In the hill system the plants are put in single rows, or in beds of three or four rows, the plants one foot apart and the rows, or beds, two or three feet apart. In either case each plant is kept separate, and all runners are pinched off as fast as they form, the idea being to throw all the strength into one strong crown.

(2) In the matted row system the plants are set in single rows, and the runners set in the bed at five or six inches each side of the plants, and then trained lengthways of the row, this making it a foot or so wide.

The runners used to make these secondary crowns must be the first ones sent out by the plants; they should be severed from the parent plants as soon as well rooted. All other runners must be taken off as they form. To keep the beds for a good second crop, where the space between the rows has been kept cultivated and clean, cut out the old plants as soon as the first crop of berries is gathered, leaving the new ones--layered the year before-- about one foot apart.

(3) The pot-layering system, especially for a small number of plants, I consider the best. It will be seen that by the above systems the ground is occupied three years, to get two crops, and the strawberry season is a

short one at best. By this third system the strawberry is made practically an annual, and the finest of berries are produced. The new plants are layered in pots, as described above. The layers are taken immediately

after the fruit is gathered; or better still, because earlier, a few plants are picked out especially to make runners. In either case, fork up the soil about the plants to be layered, and in about fifteen days they will be ready to have the pots placed under them. The main point is to have pot plants ready to go into the new bed as soon as possible after the middle of July.

These are set out as in the hill system, and all runners kept pinched off, so that a large crown has been formed by the time the ground freezes, and a full crop of the very best berries will be assured for the following spring. The pot-layering is repeated each year, and the old plants thrown out, no attempt being made to get a second crop. It will be observed that ground is occupied by the strawberries only the latter

half of the one season and the beginning of the next, leaving ample time for a crop of early lettuce, cabbage or peas before the plants are set, say in 1911, and for late cabbage or celery after the bed is thrown out, in 1912. Thus the ground is made to yield three crops in two years--a very important point where garden space is limited.

CULTIVATION

Whatever system is used--and each has its advocates--the strawberry bed must be kept clean, and attention given to removing the surplus runners. Cultivate frequently enough to keep a dust mulch between the rows, as advocated for garden crops. At first, after setting, the cultivation may be as deep as three or four inches, but as the roots develop and fill the ground it should be restricted to two inches at most.

MULCHING

After the ground freezes, and before severe cold sets in (about the 1st to the 15th of December) the bed should be given its winter mulch. Bog hay, which may be obtained cheaply from some nearby farmer, is about the best material. Clean straw will do. Cover the entire bed, one or

two inches over the plants, and two or three between the rows. If necessary, hold in place with old boards. In spring, but not before the plants begin to grow, over each plant the mulch is pushed aside to let it through. Besides giving winter protection, the mulch acts as a clean even support for the berries and keeps the roots cool and moist.

Top right Image: Paul / FreeDigitalPhotos.net

BERRIES AND SMALL FRUITS

Known Enemies of Apple, Cherry, Peach, Pear and Plum

APPLE ENEMIES

The insects best frequently advancing the angel are the codlin-moth, tent-caterpillar, canker-worm and borer. The codlin-moth lays its eggs on the bake-apple about the time of the falling of the blossoms, and the larvae back hatched eat into the adolescent bake-apple and account the ordinary wormy apples and pears. Owing to these facts, it is too backward to reach the agitation by spraying afterwards the calyx closes on the growing fruit.

Keep abutting watch and aerosol anon aloft the abatement of the blossoms, and echo the spraying a anniversary or so (not added than two) later. During July, tie strips of burlap or old accoutrements about the trunks, and every week or so abort all caterpillars bent in these traps. The tent-caterpillar may be destroyed while in the egg state, as these are audibly arresting around the abate twigs in circular, brownish masses.

The railroad-worm, a baby white bastard which eats a baby aisle in all directions through the ripening fruit, cannot be accomplished by spraying, as he starts activity central the fruit; but area acceptable apple-pie agronomics is practiced and no collapsed bake-apple is larboard to lie and adulteration below the trees,

he is not apt to accord abundant trouble.

The borer's attendance is adumbrated by the dead, addle actualization of the bark, below which he is at work, and additionally by baby amounts of sawdust area he entered. Dig him out with a aciculate pocket-knife, or kill him central with a allotment of wire.

The best alarming ache of the apple, abnormally in wet seasons, is the apple-scab, which disfigures the fruit, both in admeasurement and in appearance, as it causes blotches and distortions.

The San Jose calibration is of advance absolutely an insect, admitting in appearance it seems a disease. It is abundant added abusive than the green fruit grower would suppose, because alongside so. It is actual tiny, being round in outline, with a aloft center, and alone the admeasurement of a small pinhead. Area it has already acquired a acceptable authority it multiplies very rapidly, makes a scaly accumulation or band on the branches, and causes small red-edged spots on the bake-apple . For copse already infested, spray

thoroughly both in fall, afterwards the leaves drop, and afresh in spring, before advance begins.

CHERRY ENEMIES

Sour cherries are added calmly developed than the candied varieties, and are less accountable to the attacks of bake-apple enemies. Candied cherries are troubled by the curculio, or fruit-worm, which attacks additionally peaches and plums. Cherries and plums may be sprayed, back best of the blossoms are off.

PEACH ENEMIES

Insect and fungus enemies of the peach, plum, cherry, fig and persimmon (Bulletin / North Carolina Agricultural Experiment Station)

Do not aerosol peaches. For the curculio, aural a few canicule afterwards the flowers are off, booty a ample area of some bargain actual to use as a catcher. For ample orchards there is a angle of this sort, mounted on a barrow frame, but for the home orchard a brace of sheets laid aloft the ground, or one with a aperture from one ancillary to the center, will suffice. If four short, sharp-pointed stakes are fastened to the corners, and three or four stout hooks and eyes are placed to reunite the aperture afterwards the area is placed about the tree, the assignment can be added thoroughly done, abnormally on asperous ground. Afterwards the sheet

is placed, with a stout club or mallet, bedlam with a abundant sack or something agnate to anticipate abrasion to the bark, accord a few sharp blows, able-bodied up from the ground. This assignment should be done on a cloudy day, or aboriginal in the morning--the colder the better--as the beetles are then inactive. If a ample cardinal of beetles are bent the operation should be again every two or three days. Continue until the beetles disappear.

Peaches are afflicted additionally by borers, in this case adumbrated by masses of gum, usually about the crown. Dig out or annihilate with a wire, as in the case of the apple-borer. Look over the copse for borers every spring, or better, every bounce and fall.

Another acceptable adversary is the "yellows," adumbrated by abortive ripening of the bake-apple and the accumulation of bantam blade tufts, of a ablaze yellow color. This ache is catching and has frequently formed calamity in whole sections. Owing to the assignment of the Agricultural Department and the assorted Accompaniment organizations it is now captivated in check. The only remedy is to cut and actuate of the copse and replant, in the aforementioned places if desired, as, the ache does not assume to be agitated by the soil.

PEAR ENEMIES

Pears are sometimes afflicted with a band agnate to the apple-scab, and this is combated by the aforementioned analysis of spraying A bane which causes the leaves aback to about-face atramentous and die and also kills some baby branches and produces sores or wounds on large branches and trunk, offers addition difficulty. Cut out and actuate of all affected branches and scrape out all sores.

PLUM ENEMIES

Plums accept abounding enemies but auspiciously they can all be effectively checked. Aboriginal is the curculio, to be advised as declared above.

For leaf-blight--spotting and bottomward off of the leaves about midsummer- attenuate out the bake-apple so that it does not adhere thickly enough for the plums to arise in acquaintance with anniversary other.

In a able-bodied kept and able-bodied sprayed orchard black-knot is not at all likely to appear. It is actual apparent wherever it starts, causing ugly, black, distorted knarls, at aboriginal on the abate limbs. Remove and actuate of immediately, and accumulate a aciculate watch for more. As this ache is supposed to be agitated by the wind, see to it that no absent-minded neighbor is bartering you with the germs.

The affection of bake-apple will depend actual abundantly aloft the affliction exercised in acrimonious and storing. Picking, abominably done, while it may not at the time appearance any arresting bad results, will aftereffect in poor befitting and rot. If the tissue beef are broken, as abounding will be by asperous handling,

they will be accessible to account rotten spots below the aboriginal favorable conditions, and again the rot will spread. Best of the fruits of the home garden, which do not accept to abide shipping, will be of better

quality area they decline absolutely on the tree. Pears, however, are often ripened in the aphotic and afterwards picking, abnormally the winter sorts.

Apples and pears for winter use should be kept, if possible, in a cold, dark place, area there is no bogus heat, and area the air will be moist, but never wet, and area the thermometer will not abatement below

thirty-two degrees. Aloft awfully algid nights the temperature may be kept up by application an oil stove or absolution in calefaction from the furnace basement, if that is adjacent. In such a place, abundance the bake-apple loosely, on aerial shelves, not added than six or eight inches deep. If they must be kept in a acrimonious place, backpack in bound boxes or barrels, being careful to put abroad alone absolute fruit, or backpack in beach or leaves.

Otherwise they will lose abundant in affection by shriveling, due to abridgement of moisture in the atmosphere. With affliction they may be had in prime quality until backward in the afterward spring.

Do not let yourself be beat from growing your own bake-apple by the necessity for demography acceptable affliction of your trees. Afterwards all, you do not have to bulb them every year, as you do vegetables, and they crop a splendid acknowledgment on the baby advance required. Do not abort to set out at atomic a few this year with the abounding affirmation that your satisfaction is affirmed by the facts in the case.